Field Notes: Cross Country Skiing in Stowe, Vermont

The first decision to make is to go up the mountain or stay on the lower trails. Go up, if the snow is sparse or when there's new snow. Tricky downhill skiing is fun with a fresh blanket of snow! Yet, fresh snow on warm days can mean the snow will be sticky. At home, I wait for a good night freeze. It dries the snow out, transforming sticky snow into skiable snow. At Trapp, I purchased Swix High Quality Fluoro Universal glide wax. It works fine, but smells foul, a sure sign that something's not right.

According to Enviro Mountain Sports and Purl Wax, chemical fumes can affect a skier's lung capacity while skiing. And it's bad for the environment too! Millions of pounds of ski and snowboard toxic wax rub off during skiing. And when the snow melts, these highly toxic chemicals (linked to cancer, birth defects and liver damage) get into water streams and our drinking water.

Enviro Mountain Sports owner, Greg W. Barker, responded, "The majority of toxic ski and board waxes sold in this country are imported crude oil and petroleum based products. Our 'enviromountain wax' and 'xtasy wax' are all natural vegetable based waxes, made from ingredients grown by American farmers and made in the U.S.A. Both work well as cross country glide waxes." And in a follow up email with Scott Sparks of Purl Wax, he replied, "Yes. We have natural wax blends to improve glide for all conditions."

The Cabin

Our ski boots clunked on the Cabin's wooden floors. We made it. Sweat-soaked ski gear was pulled off, packs laid down, as we warmed our bodies near the common room's fireplace. Others lingered at the entrance, purchasing hot food from the Cabin's server. By the end of the ski season the server was more mountain than man. Silent and slim, dark haired and hollowed eyes, he offered hot soup, fresh baked bread and butter, and plenty of hot drinks and apple cider. He stood behind the wooden counter with the tip jar nearby. You approached him as you would approach Nature - - silent, calm, and respectful.

Mostly the server stayed up there by himself far from downtown Stowe. But on the days that he did come down the mountain, he would do so at night when all was quiet except for the swoosh of his skis. For he was a master skier and I, in awe, once gave it a try. Did you know that you have no depth perception in the dark? And to think he did it on the mountain - - and often. Was he more mountain than man? Concerned, I felt it an obligation to get him to smile, and occasionally he did.

The Olympians

We started this morning's ski away from the Main Lodge along a flat and easy trail. My face tingled from the cold wind: steady, crisp, and clear. I held my course until I made it to Sugar Road. Set off to the side of the trail was a welcoming sign. It set the mood for the day. A lanky, lean, and agile, former Olympian champion glided by. That's the way it is at Trapp. Olympians and novice all share the same mountain and the same love of the climb, glide, and swish of ski on snow.

On to Russell and back along Deer Pond, these routes made for a pleasant ski and delayed our choice of going up or down the mountain. "What's this?" I asked, peering at the new maps stationed along the trails. New racing loops designed for Olympic Trials, zigzagged once familiar trails. A cut back on Russell perhaps, would enable the backwoods trails and the racing loops to coexist with less cross cuts and intersections.

Yet we took a turn on these new racing loops, ending the day on white ice in an open field. After yesterday's rain and hard freeze, conditions had worsened by late afternoon. I steadied myself until my knees hurt. My ski poles with their blunted tips and round baskets needed replacing.

Maple Sugaring Season

A must for those who have a sweet tooth, is to spend time, within the heart of this cross-country ski center with group of dedicated farmers. But they don't farm apples, they farm maple syrup. Scratched on the walls of their sugarhouse was each year's bounty: displayed in the number of taps and the gallons collected and in the syrup produced. Outside, maple trees stood with paired buckets. And overhead, tapping tubes flowed with Vermont's 'black gold' - - maple sap.

"You still on Long Island," called out a familiar voice, his white beard an inch longer and whiter than the year before. He knew my longing to live on the mountain rather than the coast, and to tap trees with him. "A fine sugaring day," he continued as he drained a bucket of sap into a waiting container drawn by a make shift sled. "It's been warm and the snow's melting." I stared down at my skis. I had just skied right down onto green grass, and shrugged my shoulders. I took off my skis. No more skiing today, but the sap was running and they never minded me tagging along.

Savoring maple syrup poured on French toast is the best way I know of celebrating the change of seasons. There are several grades of syrup that you can buy. Vermont Fancy, Grade A Medium Amber, Grade A Dark Amber and Grade B. My friend swears by Grade B as it has a rich maple flavor. Grade B is primarily used for cooking because of it's strong maple flavor but is also popular with many for table use, according to Mary Croft, from the Vermont Maple Sugar Makers' Association and Vermont Maple Foundation. As for me, I like them all, but I recently came upon a batch that was too thin, watery and tasted a bit sour. I contacted Mary Croft not knowing what to do. She said, "It's better to report your concerns so that problems can be fixed, and the quality of Vermont's maple syrup is assured."

The Lower Trails

While at Trapp, don't forget to visit the lower trails at least once before the snow pack disappears. Warm spring days, animal tracks, even moose, and the calling of crows, is what awaits you. Sometimes, there's even a picture perfect view of cattle grazing in a pasture beneath the Vermont mountain range.

With the warmth of a spring day fleeting, I retrieved a sweater from my daypack and put it on. By the time we made it to the Austrian Tea Room for a break from skiing, my hands and toes felt cold. I sampled my first lignonberries at the Austrian Tea Room. They are wild berries from Europe, related to Long Island's wild cranberries. As we overlooked the mountains and an open hillside of glistening snow, the fading daylight reminded us that it was time gather up our belongings and head back up to the Main Lodge.

Beyond Trapp Family Lodge

"Hope you'll give us a try someday," offered Sheldon R. Miller from Craftsbury Outdoor Center after I explained to her the reasons why I prefer Trapp. She continued, "We offer trails that link the villages of Craftsbury Common, Craftsbury and Greensboro, passing through a variety of field and forest, all made possible by the community spirit and support of nearly eighty-five landowners."

Craftsbury Outdoor Center uses the same machinery, a PistenBully, and even one of the same groomers as Trapp Family Lodge. "This winter we re-routed the trail down the largest hill at Craftsbury into uphill only and downhill only tracks to better separate traffic. We also added some additional curves and banking to safely keep downhill speeds in check."

In prior years, we skied Stowe's Rec Path. It's eight miles in length and is used for non-motorized recreation in the wintertime, though not maintained. And Stowe Mountain Resort also has a Cross Country Ski Center. It's many trials run through state forest property. Good to try, especially for more advanced classical skiers, though the entrance gate closes early.

Where To Stay & Dine

We never quite made it, to stay overnight in Trapp. I think partly because we happened upon the Gables Inn first. It took us several years to find a place that worked for both of us. I'd prefer to ski from dawn to dusk, but soon realized my foolishness. An hour later on the trail and I'd be hungry. We settled on the Gables Inn and have been a loyal follower ever since. Eat breakfast on the porch with the ski slopes in view, and hot tub under the bright red Christmas lights strung on the signature tree making the Gables Inn location on Mountain Road.

In terms of dining, I delighted in the taste of the Winter Green Salad at the Green Mountain Inn. And learned of the best ribs in town, at the Sunset Grill where we sat in the bar, listening to seventies music, and eating melt in your mouth Baby BBQ back ribs. At the Malt Shop on Depot Road, we filled up on great salad, spaghetti, burgers and ice cream, surrounded by classic photographs of the likes of Marilyn Monroe and NYC skyscraper jockeys eating lunch on a high beam. We're also regulars at The Shed and Gracie's too.

How To Leave

On our last night at Stowe, we were treated to free hot chocolates at the corner Maplefields At Stowe gas station because the service container had emptied and we had to wait for it to be refilled. "That's the way we treat our customers," the gas attendant stated. "Because you had to wait for a refill, there's no charge to you." Astonished, we replied, "We'll be back."

Sources

The photographs from this story originated from Photographer: Raymond P. Corwin, as a Quality Parks Ranger and volunteer. Quality Parks advocates for the improved stewardship of natural resources by publishing environmental books, field notes, and features. If you would like to get involved in our stories and their production, contact us.