Life Abroad Guide - Northern Vietnam

Introduction
If you recently finished school, quit your job, or are wanted for murder in three states, you might have considered living abroad. Are you full of comprehension, but ready to take on the challenge of starting a life in a new exotic setting? There are as many reasons for taking the plunge as there are people who do indeed work overseas. But where to start? Right here with LAG.

2005-2007 Hanoi, Vietnam - Welcome to part 1 of a practical guide series on life as a foreigner. I'll be writing about places I've actually lived and summing up the best, worst, and misunderstood about each place.

Northern Vietnam, and Hanoi in particular, often goes overlooked by those world travelers looking to finance the next step of their adventure. In Asia, most people think first about working in Thailand, Japan, Korea, or Taiwan. But Hanoi holds some real possibilities for work and adventure. Let's skip the pitch and assume you want useful information about what it takes to make it in the Red River Delta.

Section 1. Finding work

No matter how cheap the cost of living is, you'll need money to finance your adventure. Luckily for native English speakers, there is a growing demand for English teachers and not much concern over credentials and training. There are other opportunities available, but for those of you at the beginning of your career, none pay as well as teaching English. If you want to get involved in other fields, you should consider the chances for advancement and the value of experience before the take-home pay.

1.A Teaching English

As of 2007, private English teachers could make $15-20 per hour at any number of places. Factor in more if you look stereotypically Western (blond hair, blue eyes), less if you look decidedly Asian. Most schools look for those with a clean, friendly appearance and a four-year degree. Cleverlearn has a relatively new language center in town, and is a popular place to teach, given the free use of their media room and fitness gym. Apollo is another large private school. The city is exploding with private language institutes, and you really can find opportunities within a week if you just show up and start asking around. There are also some positions that are only available to those with teaching experience or credentials, but it is unclear whether employers are really being discerning. Universities are among this questionable group, since they often demand experienced teachers but don't pay a higher wage or bother to check resumes.

The beauty of teaching English in Hanoi is that you are free to profit fully from networking and taking on new jobs. The work pays by the hour and I know one person who was able to maintain a luxurious lifestyle and save money for the future on only nine hours of teaching each week. It's often small corporate lessons and at-home tutoring that pay very well but don't offer many hours. You can't get these jobs right away, so don't be so quick to completely fill up your schedule with jobs that pay just the average. Above all else, teaching English is a great starting point - giving you the security and flexibility to look for that perfect job.

1.B Teaching other stuff
Experienced or certified teachers can look for work at Hanoi's two international schools, the United Nations International School (UNIS) and the Hanoi International School (HIS). They do most of their hiring at international job fairs, but they do seek local hires from time to time. You can also call and put your name on the substitute teachers' list.

Don't be afraid to teach what you know. Many have successfully taught yoga and other trendy classes to the executive expat crowd. Just don't expect to get rich teaching ordinary Vietnamese. English lessons are seen as a valuable investment that will pay off professionally, unlike Pilates.

1.C International intrigue
You won't find an entry-level or mid-level job at many foreign companies in Hanoi, but you might have more luck with international charities and development organizations. Don't expect to make much money at first (or ever) but it is a good chance to get your hands dirty. Talk to the people at the NGO Resource Center to find out where the action is.

1.D Journalism
Hanoi, like anywhere else, holds possibilities for the aspiring journalist or photojournalist. Be aware though that calling yourself either of these things without the proper government approval is a recipe for disaster. Writing any news content carries a risk.

That said, many freelance journalists operate successfully from Hanoi with proper press ID. And the country's English-language daily, the ever popular Vietnam News, often hires young foreigners to help edit and rewrite their content. The capital's media has been growing at a furious pace recently, and there are even opportunities in television and radio.

Section 2. Living

Everyone has their own needs, but it's a safe bet that you'll want food, shelter, and some protection against sudden death. Read on...

2.A Housing

To avoid costly mistakes, arrange housing before you get to Hanoi. While housing is affordable, the city's hotels are not. Check out classified sites like The New Hanoian or Expat Vietnam. Having roommates is ideal because of the way most houses are built. Tall and narrow, it's easy for everyone to have their own bedroom. Decent apartments are becoming more common, though you pay a large premium over sharing a house. Here is some housing market data to think about:
-a typical furnished five story house cost me $450/month
-the same house was leased for $600 after I left; the difference? I had a Vietnamese blood relative negotiating for me.
Most houses rented to young foreigners will go for between $600 and $900, split between three or four people. Even without expert negotiators, that's much cheaper than apartments which are in such high demand that they start around $400 and are much harder to bargain down.

2.B Eating

Here's where you can make the case that Hanoi is a horrible place to live. The food tastes great, but it has a price. If you are pulling down over $2000/month, you can pay that price in cash by going to upscale restaurants and ordering delivered food from trusty restaurants. However, most will want to be extremely careful about what they put in their mouths.
Rule 1: Assume you will get parasitic worms. Buy and take worm pills every six months.
Rule 2: Ask for no MSG. Khong mi chinh! (pronounced hchkhchhckhck-hoe-ng mee ching) Any Vietnamese person who was allergic or sensitive to MSG died long ago, so none of the survivors think twice about adding two tablespoons of MSG to every dish.
Rule 3: Say no to extras. Oh, how nice! They gave you a moist towelette. Don't worry, as it WILL show up on your bill. If you aren't going to use the towelette or eat the peanuts be sure to send them back immediately.
Rule 4: Don't rely on subtlety. If you need a waiter scream, "Em oi!" (pronounced M-uhhh-ee!) This is the equivalent of screaming, "yo bee-atch," and it's the only way to get attention and respect in a local eatery.
Rule 5: Don't eat ice, raw vegetables or cut fruit. That's where the serious parasites live and you should eat this things only once you have built a resistance to local microbes AND found people you trust to run a sanitary kitchen.

There is a whole other set of rules for buying and cooking your own food, but I will give you the condensed version: HIRE SOMEONE TO DO YOUR SHOPPING.

2.C Safety

While not strictly required, I couldn't send you off to Hanoi without a brief primer on personal safety. Hanoi is a boiling kettle of death, and it's only by luck that one is able to survive. Again, we have some simple rules.

Rule 1: Always be safe on the road.
-Funny, right? goes without saying? You'd think so, but foreigners in Hanoi are a boastful bunch, and often fueled by alcohol. Don't get on a bike without a helmet (get one that fits well and protects your jaw and face). You probably shouldn't even cross the road without one. Also, don't drive beyond your abilities. Most young foreigners are riding motorcycles for the first time in their lives, and you should NOT fold under the pressure to be as nonchalant as they are. Ride as a passenger everyday for at least a week to learn the real rules of the road. In two years, I never drove myself, relying on motorcycle taxis instead. They are affordable and you can pick experienced drivers. Try calling Cokbi (tel:04 262 6364), and remember to brind a helmet with you.

Rule 2: Master your fears, cross the road
-There is a true art to crossing the road in Hanoi. Continuously look both ways, no matter how impossible it is at the moment to imagine someone driving the wrong direction. Move smoothly - no sudden stops or starts. NEVER step backwards. Waggle your hand in front of you to signal that you are moving forward.

Rule 3: Be aware of trends in crime
-Violent crime is low in Hanoi, but rising. Keep your bling hidden and keep yourself visible. Motorbike theft and home burglary are very common, so don't leave your bike on the street at night and keep a safe at home for cash and valuables (the heavier, the better).

Rule 4: Don't give up your passport
-You are nothing without a foreign passport. Authority figures may try to lay their hands on it, either because they want to put you in a helpless situation or because they don't know better. By law, foreigners are required to carry their passports at all times, but you can get away with a photocopy. Always give the photocopy, and leave the real thing in a safe.

...
and we also have one suggestion - not a safety issue, unless you consider sounding stupid a risk to your ego:
Remember, they call it the American war.
-The Vietnamese had plenty of wars before ours, and plenty of independence wars. The one with marines, napalm, the Ho Chi Minh trail, and all that good studd is called the American war in Hanoi.

Section 3. Having fun
Why else would you be going to Hanoi? Here's the top ten:

10. Bobby Chin's
This upscale dining establishment sets the standard in town. Western prices for western fusion -a nice treat for special occasions.

9. Truc Bac lake
This underrated lake is only one of many in Hanoi, but it's well worth the visit. It's where John McCain parachuted during the war. You can easily walk around the lake, but like all walking tours, it's best to get it done early. By 6am the street traffic will give all but the most hardy foot jockeys a hard time.

8. Books and DVDs
"Copyright?!! We don't need no stinking copyright!" Pirated foreign language books and DVDs still flood the market in Hanoi, and who could blame the sellers? There is not enough demand and no legitimate market for these products here.

7. Dragonfly
This bar has become somewhat of an institution. A bit of a sweaty meat market, but let's be honest, that's why you like it. (15 Hang Buom, dragonfly_bar@yahoo.com)

6. RnR Tavern
Day or night, the tavern is the best place in town for affordable tacos and burritos. At night, the mood turns decidedly psychedelic and the all-Vietnamese Grateful Dead cover band plays weekly. There's always a pool table, satellite TV and a balcony, making this a safe and comfortable hang out for all. (47 Lo Su Street, tel:04 934 4109,rockandrolltavern-hanoi.com, randrhanoi@hn.vnn.vn

5. Hang Trong street
Don't know what to do with your weekend? Go to Hang Trong. Popular rooftop cafe, PUKU, is here to help nurse your hangover. When you're done, window shop the art shops and haggle yourself a famous oil painting.

4. Cinematheque
This 'club' is the best place for theater-style movies. There's excellent food, wine and coffee that you can take into the movies. They often have special theme weeks with a truly international film selection and lots of highly rated documentaries. Best of all, they run on donations and concessions only. (22A Hai Ba Trung)

3. Titanic (aka the Ship of Fools)
This bar on a boat is on the 'bad' side of town (i.e. the side not protected from flash floods), but that's only part of the reason why it's known by some as the Ship of Fools. Titanic is usually open after most other bars have been shut by the police. Definitely THE place to lose some inhibitions and be silly. That all stops the moment it's time to go home, since you'll have deal with walking across the narrow gang plank and, of course, the 'bad' side of town.

2. Master Quang
Master Pham Vu Quang teaches Shao Lin kung fu, as well as Tai Chi. I recommend the kung fu, at least twice a week if you are physically able. You can arrange very affordable one-on-one lessons at his personal studio overlooking Hai Ba Trung street.

1. Quan An Ngon
Literally, 'Delicious Restaurant', Quan An Ngon is one of the best places in town, and surprisingly it's also one of the cheapest (not to mention safe). Generally, the more dishes offered in a Vietnamese restaurant, the worse and more expensive the food is. If a place offers only one dish, it's sure to taste great and be cheap. Here, dozens of food stalls operate within one courtyard, each serving only one dish at rock-bottom prices (with a modest mark-up for wait staff and rents). Perhaps the best reason to eat here is that none of it is local food. Food at the 'Delicious Restaurant' is all southern style, replacing the fat, grisle, and MSG of the north with fresh herbs and spices of the south. (18 Phan Boi Chau street)

There is one more reason to live and work in Hanoi and that reason is Air Asia. Now that this low cost airline has opened flights between Hanoi, Bangkok, and KL, there is nothing to keep you from exploring Southeast Asia's treasures. Factoring in the relative ease of saving money in Hanoi (versus Bangkok or Tokyo) and you've got to agree, nothing beats it as a home base for your adventures.