A Day Out with Elspeth in Norwich

Forgive me if I effervesce... I hope that giving a personal viewpoint will make it more interesting to readers - think of me as a friendly fellow church crawler giving you some honest tips on a day out around our properties. I won't be offering an entire tour and commenting on every building of interest or place to visit - there are so many that it's take a whole book, and others already have done that.

Norwich has long been a favourite city to me. It was my first adult home; and I like to say that the Man on the Moon in the rhyme asked his way here on his earth trip rather than any other city because Lunar dwellers had the taste to see this a such a special city. And he went too far south - to his peril (he burnt his mouth on cold porridge). Talking of porridge - that's how Norwich is truly pronounced - to rhyme with that word and not that iritating posh Noor-witdgch.

I assume you'll arrive by train - at a handsome station of red brick and terracotta - a terminus hinting of the good things to come. There are toilets, a café and little shops at the station (and a bigger supermarket a little way behind the station). Grab free leaflets here too. I'm assuming too you'll have a map - get one here if you need one.

Now you have a choice of how to walk into town or as locals say: 'up city'.

The routes are trident shaped and end up at the same spot.

1st route: You might want to turn left out of the station along the river to follow the National Cycle Route. Let me warn you - this is not Norwich as its best, but I like to keep and eye on this area as it's marked for development. When I moved here 10 years ago, several billion pounds of rejuvenation was promised - and this is the only part as yet unfulfilled. This area (on the station side of the river) might be a good last stop, if you like ten pin bowling, multiplex cinemas and chain bars; it certainly gets busy by night.

Keep going till you get to the new white bridge, cross it, and turn right. The cycle route goes left, though frankly I can think of little reason to go that way. Above you are the best towers on the old walls, though it's steep and lonely path, so do take a little care. This side of the river has bits of industrial past (something Norwich isn't well known for but certainly has). From the entertainment side of the river, you looked across at the back of Norwich's medieval spine, King Street. Particularly interesting is the striped timbers of Dragon Hall, a medieval hall and heritage centre which is newly reopened: £6 entry, open 6 days a week but not in winter, now with multimedia. Opposite, up an alley, is a tiny church shorn of its round tower by a bomb. It's the Mother Julian centre - the local mystic writer. Yes, Julian's a girl! You can pop in for quiet and see her cell, and Mon - Sat 10.30-3.30 you can go in the bookshop/library next door.

While I'm on churches, I should say Norwich's superlative in that area: 31 mediaeval parish churches within the walls, 1 tower, 1 Cathedral/priory and 1Blackfriars complex. There are 3 churches in this street, but I shan't comment on them all. Norwich also claims it's the most complete mediaeval city in England, with a Norman castle, many interesting narrow streets and a secret stash of 70+ mediaeval undercrofts.

I should say too that King Street doesn't always feel the safest of streets and it is a bit forlorn, but you should be OK in the day. It gets better as you walk up it towards town again; or can reach it off Prince of Wales Road/Rose Lane if you'd prefer. There's some cafes at this point: a church one; and just into Mountergate is one attached to artists' studios, in a building which seems to be part of a former foundry, though is actually very new. The address brings back an old name for this area: Netherconesford - a quirky English name, so I bet it appeals to Bill Bryson! (2010 the artists' studio cafe is closed now but there's Butterflies instead).

The second option is the Cathedral walk which is prettier. Coming out of the station, go diagonally right across the forecourt, cross the bridge and go down the steps by the Compleat Angler Pub. You're now on the riverside path. This gets better as you come to the flint Watergate, Pull's Ferry. You can turn left up here into the path, or keep going towards the mediaeval Bishop's Bridge and Cow Tower. But whatever you do, take in the view of the Cathedral across the playing fields.

Norwich's Close is very special indeed, and there are several bits to explore - e.g. the little street, Hook's Walk. My favourite view of the Cathedral is right behind it, in an area called Life's Green, which has always struck me as a philosophical name for a burial ground. From here, the rare Norman apse with radiating chapels, and later flying buttresses, and the spire. I do not propose a cathedral tour here, but as this is perhaps still my favourite, this is where the effervescence comes. Let me at least share the effect it had on my first visit, and I'll let you make your own judgements.

It was that quiet period before everyone's back from Christmas, and the sky was dull. In such an atmosphere, I may have not seen Norwich's much used emblem at its best. But it remains one of two cathedrals where I felt moved and awestruck as I entered. In the sun, it has an amazing luminescence - particularly at the east end. No admission fee, but you do need to pay for photography permits and a donation is encouraged. There's a shop, nice loos and a refectory (though other food options are nigh). Guidebook £5.

The last route out of the station is straight up Prince of Wales Road: direct to the centre but not inspiring. It is also steep, and can be noisy at night. I like to imagine the gentle curve could've been a Grey Street, Newcastle - but the money for this grand route ran out early on, and it's now piecemeal clubs and fast food.

All routes come to the junction at the top of this hill, where Anglia local TV's studios were. The bank/PO was their reception, and used to house the silver knight that twirled round in between programmes to Handel's Water Music when I was a child.

Outside the Cathedral is a wide space full of restaurants. A special one is Take 5, which has been running since 1970s - one of those places which for me and many others define what is distinct about Norwich: a mediaeval building with an arty feel. It's also a CAMRA pub.

I could bubble away about Elm Hill, or the superstore sized Oxfam in Magdalen St (we do pronounce it as written here, unlike Oxbridge). It's a good way to find CCT's church at St Augustine's. You can cut through the admittedly not too glam Anglia Square wee shopping centre - the church is the red tower out the other side. This bit's called Norwich over the Water, but it ought to be called Norwich over the Ring Road, and does feel a little cut off. There's not anything particular to visit, but gems of old buildings are dotted about, and if you like to support a cheap local chain cinema, linger at Anglia Square.

Going back into town unfortunately means you encounter the ring road, unless you retrace your steps. Doing the latter gives you the change to explore Colegate. There are no facilities, but it's perhaps my favourite street for buildings, and includes two special nonconformist chapels. Otherwise - be warned - it's a hard road to cross, or a subway I wouldn't fancy in the dark.

You end up, either way, in Norwich's most arty and alternative district. There's more industrial buildings here - the former shoe factory has a wine bar called Lasts (like the shoe making device). If you like comics, music, small galleries, this whole area around St George's/Andrew's and especially St Benedict's - is for you. There's only one chain here - Pizza Express - and everything else - food and shops - are all independent.

The tour buses used to proclaim that there are 4 churches in a row here. The big one with the little turret is owned by The Churches Conservation Trust and was a textiles centre; you can see art at St Margaret's, watch and hear art at Norwich Arts Centre and St Gregory's. There's also a great bar at the Playhouse, which has outside seating - this would be better if the view wasn't blighted by the car park. There's loads of good places to eat round here - you can have a jacket potato in a crypt under St Andrew's Hall [closed in 2012], just up the road (this is the Blackfriars complex I mentioned), or the arts cinema opposite has a mediaeval hall bar/dining room. And there's Stranger's Hall Museum (Wed-Sat Feb-Dec, c£4, 10.30-4.30).

Cutting up an alley on the same side as the other churches will bring you nearer to the church of St John Maddermarket. That's a deep red dye - not anything about Normal for Norfolk (Wikipedia website explains...) More interesting shops in a cobbled street, but you're near the market now and the main high street shops. You're also near one of 20 Greater Churches, so designated nationally as they are particularly grand but not cathedrals. It's the big one on the market called St Peter Mancroft, and is open 10.30 - 3.30 (ish - there's a key ceremony to vie with the Tower of London when the verger hints to get you out earlier). You can admire it from the first floor of the new Forum building, which gives wonderful views. It's also where the Tourist Information Centre is. There are very special eateries off the market, so special and already so popular that I don't want to tell you where they are!

Norwich has lots to do - my favourite shopping city in Britain, one of the best city centre cinema selections nationally, a dozen arts centres. As the country's largest walled city, it has lots of streets with old buildings (e.g. Timberhill) to go and wander down. Now has that given you enough to amuse yourselves for the rest of the day - and evening?