A Graecophile's Guide to Visiting Delphi

For the Graecophile, Delphi is a must-see. Of course, one does not 'see' Delphi so much as experience it. The vibe of Mount Parnassus and the whispered history of the sibyls complement the Phaedriades' timelessness. Enjoy Delphi for all it's worth -- the right way.

Ditch the Tour Group

Beware the tour groups that 'do' Athens in the morning and have a brief stop-over in Delphi. The city and surrounding region is penciled into virtually any Greek travel itinerary, but to do justice to the area you must allot a fair amount of time to it. One week is the absolute minimum to spend here; two weeks is better.

Stay at the Leto Hotel

Smack-dab in the middle of Delphi, the Leto Hotel is a smaller family-run operation. It's big on comfort and without all the bells and whistles that cost a small kingdom's ransom. Costs range from 50 to 90 Euros a night. Check in after 2 p.m.; check-out is promptly at noon.

Walk

One-way streets, narrow roads and driving as audacious as you might find around the traffic circles in Madrid are just some of the terms that would describe driving in and around Delphi. Avoid the gridlock and frustration by walking. Besides, to truly appreciate the fascination that Delphi held for the ancient Greek, walking along the hippodrome of Delphi, marveling at the stadium and climbing up to the Athena Pronaia sanctuary are mandatory experiences.

Do not be afraid to take frequent breaks. You can always recognize true Graecophiles by their willingness to enjoy the sunlight and the beauty of nature for 20 minutes, only to walk down a few steps and repeat.

Visit the Sights

The Archaeological Museum of Delphi features a wonderful collection of permanent exhibits as well as changing displays. Marvel at the Naxian Sphinx, statues of Kleobis and Biton and various friezes. Visit the Tholos and do take the time to check out the tourist traps. Even though they usually ruin the experience, in this case there are quite a few that actually enhance the local color. (Just be prepared to dodge the tourist buses that disgorge visitors by the dozens.)

Enjoy Greek Food

Dart in and out of the small taverns that line the streets. Retsina is ubiquitous and the food is usually slightly oily. Don't ask for low-fat options and do not turn away the glass of ouzo the tavern owner sends to your table; it is good-natured kindness and comes with no strings attached. (Careful! Don't drink more than one, unless you have some experience with the effects of the aperitif.)

Sources

Leto Hotel

15 Apollonos, 33 054 Delphi

+30 22650 82302

Archaeological Museum of Delphi

330 54 Delphi

Sunday to Tuesday 8:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.; Wednesday to Saturday 8 a.m. to 8 p.m.

6 Euros
+30 22650 82313