A Guide to Buying and Planting Large Trees

You're in the garden center looking at Ball and Burlap trees ranging from 2-3 inches thick, 8-12 feet high, and around $250 each. One of those trees would look excellent in your yard, but do you have what it takes to get it there?

You will need two or three men, a pickup truck, a tarp, rope and a long 2x6 or 2x8 to move the tree.

Step 1: Lay the groundwork. You will want to decide on what tree you want based first upon the health of the tree and second upon the looks of the tree. Select a variety with requirements that are met by the planting site, as many trees die because they weren't suitable to the planting site. The most important thing I look at is, how much did the tree grow in the current growing season? As most ball and burlap trees are dug in the early spring, the current season's growth serves as a good barometer of how healthy the tree's root system is based on how well the tree as able to grow. Look for trees that grew twigs several inches. If there are no satisfactory trees with twig growth, then look for trees with better leaf growth that look healthy. Also check the ball itself. There should not be any air pockets around the roots. A dilapidating ball can pose a major problem as it first of all allows the roots to dry out and second, is more likely to be a problem during transportation. Ask the garden center clerk if there is a forklift that loads trees into pickup trucks. You can also inquire about if the garden center has a delivery system. That would save a lot of hassle but would be a steep additional cost. You would probably be paying for two guys' time in addition to the delivery charge.

Step 2: Dig the hole: For a 2x3 ball, dig a hole two feet deep and four feet wide. The old saying of digging a five-dollar hole for a one-dollar tree is true. Mix a little bit of fertilizer and organic matter into the bottom of the hole.

Step 3: Get the tree: Pay for the tree if you haven't already done so. Make sure you know what the garden center's policies are on guaranteeing the tree. Have the yard attendant load the tree with the forks into the truck. Wrap your tarp around the entire crown and tie it on. The tarp should be used even if you drive only a mile. Windburn can dehydrate and kill the tree's foliage and even its twigs. If the ball is loaded on the back of the truck, the tree can then be leaned forwards and tied down.

Step 4: Get the pickup within six feet of the hole and unload the tree. Untie the tree and the tarp from around the tree. Rolling the tree straight off the tailgate can be rough on the root system of the tree. It makes a lot more sense to roll the tree down a plank and have it arrive at the edge of the hole. A little bit of care needs to be taken to make sure the tree does not roll down the plank too fast or fall off the edge of the plank. Use a wide plank to be on the safe side.

Step 5: Planting. Stand the tree up; is it pointing the right direction? If not, can it turn easily? If it cannot turn easily, put a baseball-sized rock near the center of the hole a bit closer to the edge where the tree is. Let the tree slide into the hole. Pivot it on the rock if necessary, then backfill the soil and any organic compost into the hole, tamping down the soil hard as you go. Cut away the top of the burlap. Do not fill any soil over the level of the burlap. Do build a circle around the tree to hold the water with some of the extra soil.

Water the tree thoroughly once or twice a week especially during dry periods. Staking the tree is only necessary if winds are really disturbing it, as a little instability causes the tree to firmly root itself.