A "Hidden" Village Just Off I-35 in Salado, Texas

When the old San Antonio to Dallas highway became Interstate 35 in 1956, it looked like the end of the road for the Bell County village of Salado.

Since the 1850s, the community that grew up around a bubbling spring midway between Austin and Waco had been a stopping place for travelers. But when engineers routed the new super highway slightly to the west of Salado, the town's business community worried that traffic would trail off, killing the town.

Turns out, I-35 revitalized Salado. Though only a short distance east of Texas' heavily traveled concrete "Mississippi," Salado has the feel of an isolated 19^th century village. First-time visitors to this historic community will hardly believe they are so near the 24-hour traffic flow of the state's busiest roadway.

And in the fall, when the days grow short and the temperature begins to drop, Salado becomes just about the most Christmassy venue this side of the North Pole.

Of course, Salado has good places to eat and shopping opportunities year round, but the annual Salado Christmas Stroll transforms the village's Main Street into block and block of holiday magic.

The village's 140-plus shops - all outlined in holiday lighting - stay open late to accommodate visitors strolling under holiday lighting amid outdoor fireplaces and apple cider and hot chocolate stations. To add to the atmosphere, Salado's horse drawn carriages, draped with jingle bells, clatter up and down Main Street.

Here's a suggested Salado action plan: Salado is an easy day trip from the Dallas-Fort Worth Metroplex or Austin-San Antonio, but the 82-room Stagecoach Inn Motel (fronting on I-35, though connected to the old stage shop and its restaurant) is a great place to spend the night. If you prefer a bed and breakfast, Salado has several fine choices.

If you're interested in antiques, arrive early enough in the day to hit the antique malls and shops before the lights go on along Main Street. A must-stop for the literary minded is Fletcher's Books and Antiques, 945 N. Main St. The shop has been in business since the 1950s when the late Herbert Fletcher and his wife Thelma escaped downtown Houston in favor of Salado's attractive faus-isolation. The store is now operated by their grandson.

Whether for lunch or dinner, plan on a meal at Salado's most famous eatery, the Stagecoach Inn. Located in an old stage stop at 401 S. Stagecoach Road (right off Main Street in the heart of the village) built in the early 1860s, the restaurant has been in business since 1945.

The inn specializes in four-course meals, from appetizer to dessert. I like starting off with their tomato aspic and munching the corn fritters before the full meal arrives. As for entrées, their turkey and dressing or ham dinners stand out in my memory.

After lunch, check out the Central Texas Museum, just across Main Street from the venerable restaurant.

If you opt for dinner at the inn, check out the Ambrosia Tea Room at 102 North Main St. for a light lunch of soup, salad or sandwiches.

The details:

For more information on Salado, visit the village's Chamber of Commerce Web site at www.saladochamber@vvm.com or call 254-947-5040.

If you don't have time to check the Internet before visiting Salado, the chamber operates a visitor's center at 601 N. Main St. inside the Civic Center.

To check the Stagecoach Inn's menu or to learn more about the historic stopping place, visit the inn's Web site at www.stagecoach_inn@earthlink.net The restaurant is open for lunch from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. and for dinner from 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. The motel's coffee shop is open from 6:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily.

The carriages run from 6 p.m. to 10 p.m. on weekends and by appointment only Monday through Thursday. For more information, call Good Time Carriage Rides at 254-771-2839.