A Review of the Artichoke Cafe in Albuquerque, New Mexico

The Artichoke Cafe was the first sophisticated dining experience I remember in Albuquerque. It opened around 1984, closed for a while, and reopened under new owners in 1989. The restaurant and a new wine bar are about double the original size, but service remains intimate, interested, and speedy. At a little before 7 p.m. on a Friday, it was full. A basket of good breads immediately arrived with olive oil and balsamic vinegar. The wine list offers 40 wines by the glass, as well as flights.

We began with a flight of sauvignon blanc and a flight of chardonnay: each featured well-chosen samples from California, Italy, and Australia, and each glass held two ounces or a little more. It was only natural to start with a big artichoke. With it, there were generous servings of lemon aioli, melted butter, and a raspberry vinaigrette. We also ordered a plate of antipasti, with two big skewers holding prosciutto, salami, mortadella, provolone, and mild Greek peppers, rested on a sheet of bright green olive oil and balsamic vinegar. It was served with its own small baguette for mopping up the dressing and a bowl of green and black olives.

The size of this starter suggested it was more suited for the wine bar in the next room, perhaps for a couple, than as an appetizer. I would have appreciated a friendly tip from the waiter that I was ordering too much to follow with the Kurobuta pork chop. Kurobuta pork comes from a Japanese breed fatter and more flavorful than what is bred industrially these days, with calories and flavor both gone. When asked by the waiter how I wanted the chop cooked - no one has ever asked me that before - I erred on the side of caution and said "no pink," and so the pork was drier than it should have been. It was supposed to be seared in fresh horseradish; I didn't detect any, though I did find the pan gravy sweet - maybe some horseradish came in under my palate radar. I got not just one chop but also what seemed to be the better part of a second, boneless; that plus good mashed potatoes proved a very substantial dish.

At least a half-dozen generous-size scallops, succulent though a little strong, were wrapped in mild prosciutto. Someone at the table remarked that the prosciutto overpowered the scallops, but I didn't think so. The Bain carrots were not merely crunchy, they were nearly raw. At the waiter's recommendation, I tried a fresh peach galette for dessert. It was pleasant enough and the puff-pastry shell was well-made, but I didn't think it was worth a special recommendation. Artichoke Café is located at424 Central Avenue S.E., Albuquerque, 505-243-0200