A Review of Barrett and Wasserman Recipe Book - Risotto

Let me first preface this review by saying that I am not a cook. Given the choice, I have to admit that the temptation from the stack of take-out menus in one of my kitchen drawers usually wins over that occasional need to prepare and mix ingredients from scratch. I mean, who wants to wash all those dishes?

Nevertheless, coming from an Italian family, I had to learn some basic cooking skills if I ever wanted to eat the way I did as a child. Of course, Mumsy still brings over the occasional pot of her thick lentil soup, or Pasta e Fagioli, but my mother's years in America have liberated her as a woman and more often than not, my request for her linguine with baby clams or her homemade Pizza Rustica is met with the emancipated reply of, "Maka you own freakin' food!". Gotta love that Connie.

Enter Risotto.

Risotto is a dish that I have loved ever since I was a child and before I detail the wonders of this book by Judith Barrett and Norma Wasserman, let me backpedal for a second and describe Risotto and its origins. Briefly put, Risotto is a northern Italian rice dish that is versatile, economical and as the authors so precisely encapsulate, "addictively delicious". Best of all, Risotto is made with the most basic ingredients, which is all the more reason why I enjoy it. If any dish calls for an exotic ingredient, I'm as good as glassy-eyed. I have to get cardamom? Clarified butter?! Never mind - it's off to the golden arches I go for the Big Mac Value Meal. Sorry folks, but you're talking to a man whose trip to the Supermarket yields the requisite Malt Liquor and Mallomars. (Yeah, I know - single and staying that way.)

But I underscore this point to emphasize how easy it is to prepare Risotto, and this book makes it even easier, including over a 100 recipes ranging from the traditional Risotto Milanese to the truly creative Risotto al Pompelmo - that's grapefruit Risotto. The tone is straightforward, simple and lacks pretension. The basics of Risotto are introduced in the beginning of the book. They are described in detail and broken down to its four basic ingredients: The Rice, the Broth, the Soffrito and the Condimenti.

The Rice, Broth and Soffrito normally stay the same for most of the recipes, but it's the variation on the Condimenti that lends Risotto its flavor and therefore its versatility. Hence, the book is divided in chapters as such: Cheese Risotti, Vegetable Risotti, Fish and Seafood Risotti, Meat Risotti, and Liquor and Fruit Risotti. Each recipe is clearly outlined with the four basic ingredients and their proper measurements, followed by specific and simple preparation instructions.

With over 100 recipes, I admit to not having experimented with them all. I tried the Risotto with Mushrooms, Cognac and Cream and lest I should fall too short of words to describe this velvety dream, I'll merely say that I needed a napkin just now to wipe the drool off the side of my mouth. But my hands-down favorite is the classic Risotto Milanese. Again, I'm not one for wild or inaccessible ingredients, so when the recipe calls for the one odd item - bone marrow - I just omit it. Knowing how to harness bone marrow from a veal shank ranks right up there with my desire to know the finer details of Brazilian bikini waxing. If you're a purist, then happy hunting - but for me, the dish turns out just as delicious.

The same goes for the broth. Depending on the type of Risotto you're creating, the broth should be a base to complement the rice. If you're making a seafood risotto, for instance, then a fish-based broth is in order, and so on. The authors outline the specifics to make chicken broth from scratch, but since I don't have time to kill fowl, chicken bouillion and tap water do just fine really. If you're a stickler for detail, however, then the recipe for the beef-based and fish-based broth are also included.

Also, if I can wax off-topic and presumptuous for a moment, I may have improved upon their Risotto Milanese. First, the recipe calls to fry the rice in the butter and onion mixture for only a minute. I find the texture of the rice is far superior when you fry it for 7 - 10 minutes before adding the broth and saffron. Also, toward the end of its cooking, the remaining broth and the condimenti of butter and Parmigiano cheese are to be added. I don't include the broth, but add the butter, cheese and a splash of dry white wine instead. It makes for a more pungent and delectable risotto. This is just a suggestion as some may find this step too overpowering, so make the final preparations according to your liking.

Just to give you an idea, here's a smattering of recipes you will find in the book:
Chicken Mushroom and Pine Nut Risotto
Risotto Rosso alle Vongole (clams, tomatoes and red wine)
Shrimp and Squash Risotto
Porcini and Prosciutto Risotto (Risotto alla Castellana)
Risotto with Sun-dried Tomatoes and Fontina
Goat Cheese Risotto
Champagne Risotto
Risotta All'Arancia (Orange Juice, Capers and Brandy)
Risotto all Carbonara (Pancetta, Eggs and Cream)

Depending on how creative you want to get and how willing you are to find the more exotic ingredients is up to you. But I credit the authors for streamlining the technique so that anyone can prepare this fantastic dish. Added bonus is the introduction which narrates the interesting origins of Risotto. Can't finish your risotto? The book also provides some fantastic recipes for what to do with your cold leftovers. The risotto suppli' which basically turns your leftovers into breaded and fried croquettes, is simple to produce and especially sinful!!

All in all, Risotto by Barrett and Wasserman is an excellent resource for all your starchy cravings, but I think it was best articulated by the great wise Homer when he said, "mmmmmm...Risotto...aaaarrrrggghghgghggccckcckcchhk"