A Review of Jinja Bar and Bistro in Santa Fe, New Mexico

Jinja Bar & Bistro is decorated with posters and furnishings that evoke Southeast Asia between the world wars; actually, they evoke old movies set there. But authenticity isn't the goal. Dishes from all over Asia have been adapted to American tastes - the dipping sauces lean toward sweet. Roomy booths and wide-set tables make it one of the most comfortable restaurants in town.

The best starters I've had so far are the lettuce wraps - four crisp iceberg leaves, ideal for sharing, cupped around stir-fried chicken and smoked pork, with sprouts, mushrooms, The best starters I've had so far are the lettuce wraps - four crisp iceberg leaves, ideal for sharing, cupped around stir-fried chicken and smoked pork, with sprouts, mushrooms, and onion - and the tempura, with crisp vegetables and shrimp in a greaseless batter. The deep-fried tofu is dull, and I like deep-fried tofu. The fillings in the fried shrimp and pork dumplings are indistinctive, just generic filling.

I've enjoyed both the Singapore Noodles- rice noodles with barbecued pork and pea- nuts in a mild yellow curry - and Chow Fun, broader rice noodles in a spicier sauce. Ten Tigers consists of 10 good-sized grilled shrimp, supposedly marinated in lemon grass though I couldn't taste it, on skewers over a bed of rice. I don't know what 1 was thinking. Shrimp are going to be boring no matter what's done to them. They were beautifully grilled, with mole though. At my request, the sewer brought a pair of hot sauces to liven things up. The popular steak dish called Shaking Beef offers seared beef tenderloin tips and lots of them, with caramelized onion on top of raw spinach leaves and fried rice. Tenderness may vary, but it's consistently flavorsome. Chocolate Silk cake is a bubbling slice of molten cake with a scoop of Vietnamese coffee ice cream specially developed with Taos Cow.

Everyone was too full for dessert the evening I ordered it, but we finished it all the same. The bar is consistently good. I didn't try any of the retro drinks like mai tais or zombies but, surprisingly, the margarita I ordered was the best I have had in a while.

Dinner for two at Jinja Bar & Bistro:

-Lettuce wraps $ 6.95

-Shrimp Tempura $ 6.25

-Shaking Beef $16.95

-Singapore Noodles $ 9.50

-Margarita $ 7.95

-Glass chardonnay $ 7.00

-Silk cake $ 5.50

Total(Before tax and tip) $60.10

Jinja Bar & Bistro is located at 510 N. Guadalupe St. inside the DeVargas CenterNorth, 982-432. They are opened from 11 a.m. until l0 p.m. Monday-Friday;noon-10 p.m. Saturday- Sunday