A Review of the Rio Chama Steakhouse in Santa Fe, New Mexico

If you are one of those who love barbecue for the sauce - lots of it and sweet- choose the Rio Chama bar menu. Unlike at the bar, the dining room serves rack of baby-back ribs with broccoli and macaroni and cheese. I personally find that less than inviting, but if you think you'd enjoy that combination, don't hold back on my account. I have been assured the ribs are the same in both places.

Rio Chama's ribs are falling-off-the-bone tender. I was told they're cooked for about seven and a half hours. Though luscious and meaty, their flavor was submerged in the thick, rich, tomato-based sauce that smothered them. The ribs were pre sliced - you'd have to eat them in the bathtub if they weren't and perched on a bowl of even more sauce. Another plate held an indispensable wet towel. Given the richness of the sauce, the full rack is easily enough for two. Sticks of raw carrot and celery and pepperoncini on the plate help cut some of that richness.

We started with a large wedge of fresh, crisp iceberg lettuce and baby tomato halves, served with a mild blue-cheese dressing - a perfect partner for ribs. What sounded equally good, rum-habanero glazed shrimp, turned out to be three bland, boring, and overpriced shrimp on a stick on top of a relish of corn, black beans, and mango dice, which was also bland. One could argue in favor of bringing out the salad with the barbecue, or at least asking if we wanted it then - but to bring all three items at the same time was a sign, I thought, of "who cares?" service.

We had a pint of sweetish IPA ale on draft and a pleasant chardonnay, which suffered, unfortunately, from the dreaded short pour. Wine we observed at neighboring tables rose about a third of the way closer to the rim of the glass than ours. The main advantage to the Rio Chama experience - assuming you like your barbecue sauce thick and plentiful - is the availability of a full bar. (I assume the wine shortfall was an exception, though you might want to stay alert.)

The main disadvantage is that the entrance from the parking lot is closed because of construction. If you choose to park behind the restaurant, you'll have to navigate the equivalent of a couple of blocks to the hostess station via the Santa Fe Trail entrance. The Rio Chama Steakhouse is located at 414 Old Santa Fe Trail in Santa Fe, New Mexico; 955-0765.