A Stroll Around Historic Savannah, Georgia

SAVANNAH, Ga. - Savannah certainly impresses the first-time visitor. At least it did me. A stroll around the downtown area reveals a historic center's whose architecture is reminiscent of Old New Orleans, without the accompanying tawdriness.

Visitors can choose from a number of tour options - bus, trolley, boat, horse-and-carriage, or even guided walking tours. Those who seek out the supernatural can even have choices, too, with either the Ghostly Trolley Tour or the Spirit Stroll being worthy of consideration.

I eschewed all of those in favor of a personal stroll. I started on Bay Street, walked 15 blocks on Bull Street to Forsythe Park, hiked two blocks east to Abercorn, and then returned to Riverfront Plaza. The entire excursion took about four hours, mainly because I loitered around many of the more interesting sites.

The early blocks of Bull Street left the impression that nearly every block had several historic markers, at least one historical building, and several other structures that look historical. My first stop was Johnson Square, one of more than 20 historic squares in the downtown area. Give Savannah for its foresight in planning so many for the city. It gives the area both historical and aesthetic appeal.

Johnson Square, for example, was the first developed by the city. It is named for former South Carolina Gov. Robert Johnson, who provided assistance to the Georgia colonists when the area was first settled.

Revolutionary War buffs will want a photograph of the tall Nathaniel Greene Monument in the center of Johnson Square. Greene died near Savannah in June 1786. The monument marks the grave of the Revolutionary War hero and his son.

The next stop, two blocks further along, is Wright Square. This restful spot was designed in 1733 and later named for Georgia's first governor, James Wright. The square also includes the grave of Tomo-Chi-Chi, a chief of a Creek Indian Tribe who helped James E. Oglethorpe when he settled in the area.

One block south, at the corner of Bull and East Oglethorpe, I find the Juliet Gordon Low Birthplace House. The building was known as the Gordon House when Low, the founder of the Girls Scouts, was born there in 1860. Now owned by the National Girl Scouts Organization, it has been restored to its 1886 appearance - the year of her marriage.

Continue one more block south and Chippewa Square appears. The name honors local fighters who participated in the Canadian Battle of Chippewa during the Revolutionary War. The centerpiece monument, though, is a 10-foot statue of local legend James Oglethorpe that was unveiled in 1910.

Next stop: Madison Square, named for the nation's fifth president. The centerpiece of the square is a monument to Sgt. William Jasper, a hero of the 1779 siege of Savannah during the Revolutionary War.

Some tourists gather around the Sorrel-Weed House across from the northwest corner of the square, but they may want to wait until night to take its tour. This residence, featured on the Sci-Fi Channel's "Ghost Hunters" Halloween Special, is included on the nighttime "Ghosts and Gravestones" trolley tour

More tourists were gathered near the Green-Meldrin House on Macon Street, across from the West side of the square. This example of Gothic Revival architecture was the headquarters for General William T. Sherman after his famous "March to the Sea" through Georgia. Some locals refer to the conflict as "The Confederate War" and don't mention Sherman by name, referring to him only as "the Union General."

Madison Square's most popular spot, though, was the Mercer House. This building became famous as the setting for Clint Eastwood's movie, "Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil."

In fact, this whole area seems to be popular with movie/TV folks. "Forrest Gump" may have been set in the a fictional Alabama town, but many of the city scenes were shot in and around Madison Square.

Two more blocks south brings you to Monterey Square, named in honor of the Battle of Monterey during the Mexican War. The city might want to consider renaming it "Pulaski Square," in honor of Polish Count Casimir Pulaski. A monument to the Revolutionary War hero, who died from wounds incurred during the 1779 Siege of Savannah, occupies the center of the park.

Finally I reached the 30-acre Forstyth Park and its marvelous fountain. The park was named after former Gov. John Forsyth in 1851. Its three-tiered, white fountain was added in 1858.

To return, I walked two blocks over to Abercorn, and then one block north to Calhoun Square. It was laid out in 1851 and named for Southern statesman John C. Calhoun.

Two blocks further north brings you to Lafayette Square, named for the Marquis de Lafayette. The Frenchman visited the city in 1825 and spoke to a crowd from the balcony of the Owens-Thomas House - a fine example of Regency architecture - on the east side of the square.

The beautiful and twin-spired Cathedral of St. John the Baptist occupies a spot across from the northeast corner. Founded in 1870, the current version was rebuilt in 1892 after the original structure was destroyed by fire.

One of the city's most historic houses, the Andrew Low House, sits on the west side of Lafayette Square. This elegant antebellum home was built in 1849 and once hosted Confederate hero, General Robert E. Lee.

Low's son, William M. Low, later purchased the home and brought his new bride to live there. Her name? Juliette Gordon Low. Yes, there are two historic homes in Charleston with ties to the founder of the Girl Scouts, and this one may be the most important. It was here that Low's widow founded the Girl Scouts of America on March 12, 1912. Unfortunately, on my visit the house was surrounded by scaffolding while undergoing renovations.

Head on further north, and a half block away you'll pass the Flannery O'Connor House - the home of one of the South's most famous writers. The parlor houses a small museum devoted to the author.

The next stop is not a park but Colonial Park Cemetery, the burial site for a number of people with historical ties to the city, the state (several governors) and the Revolutionary War. The most famous resident is Button Gwinnett, a signer of the Declaration of Independence.

Colonial also includes the grave of Capt. Denis Cottineau, a Frenchman indirectly involved in the most famous sea battle of the Revolutionary War. While John Paul Jones' "Bon Homme Richard" engaged and defeated the British ship "Serapis." Cottineau - commander of the slower "Pallas" - defeated the "HMS Countess of Scarborough."

Oglethorpe Square comes next, sitting between York and State streets. I never did understand why Olgethorpe's statue stands in Chippewa Square, instead of here. Maybe they just wanted to honor him twice.

The centerpiece of Reynolds Square is a statue of Methodist founder John Wesley. Wesleu lived in Savannah for two years and preached his first sermon nearby. Also nearby is the Wesley Monumental United Methodist Church, built as a memorial to John and his brother Charles.

One more block put me back to my starting point on Bay Street, where a saw a few last sights - City Hall, the U.S. Custom House, the Old Cotton Exchange and its bell (the oldest in Georgia), and two Revolutionary War cannons captured by George Washington at Yorktown (a gift from him to the city). The only disappointment was City Hall and its gold leaf dome. It was undergoing renovations, making it difficult to appreciate the beauty of the Greek Revival structure.

That completed one afternoon of strolling around the city. I've still got to go down to the riverfront for a view of the "Waving Girl" statue. And there's Old Fort Jackson, Battlefield Park, the Savannah History Museum, and another dozen or so square's that need my attention.

No doubt. This is an interesting city.

References

Curteich, John Hinde (undated). Historic Savannah Geogia. Picture guide book with map.