A Three Ring Circus of Brazilian Cuisine at Circus

My Uncle Simon loved two things, my Aunt Sadie's matzo brie late at night and Ester Beck, whom he would often have "visited" before partaking in said delectable. It was during one of these nocturnal gustatory, adultery accusation scream fests that my Uncle Simon grabbed his chest and slammed into the table. If I must meet my end in such a fashion, may the location be Circus at 61st Street off of Lexington Avenue and may the dish be Rabada, the Brazilian version of Shepherd's Pie, a slowly braised ox tail, the connective tissue so silky it reviles any Osso Buco alla Milanese, complimented perfectly with a yucca puree, lifting me to heaven on grace notes of cilantro.

How sad I am that my Uncle Simon couldn't partake of that, sitting opposite me in one of the linen tufted banquettes that line the long wall of Circus's main dining area. But knowing my Uncle Simon, he would have said, "Thirteen dollars for this? It's brisket." Okay, a 55 year old Jew circa 1964 Massapequa, Long Island might not be ready for Rabada and its price that has to carry ambience. But this 55 year old from the Upper East Side is. They tell me gentiles are welcome too. I kid.

Circus is a short walk from both the R and 6 subway lines, of which yours truly is a frequent rider. I don't know about you. But I have so little in my real life. I want restaurants to transport me. That's what Circus does. On the walls you'll find art noveau posters of clowns, acrobats and other various circus themes, the good kind of circus art that makes you forget about the 15 dollar circus lights your kids hounded you to buy twenty-five years ago when you took them to the greatest show on earth and then broke the next day. Okay, maybe it won't make you forget totally. This circus is La Dolce Vita without the existential angst. When I drop by on a Saturday night, especially in the fall, they light pairs of little votive like candles on the dark, polished wood tone stairs that that deliver you to Circus's main dining area. Well, they don't light them just for me.

Yes, I hear what you're saying, as if you're the ghost of my Uncle Simon. "Can you eat candle wax? What about the food?" You know how I feel about the Rabada. But you have to start off with the Sopa De Camarao, shrimp bisque so creamy with just a rumor of fish perfectly complimented with Dende oil. What's Dende oil? Ask the staff, who is more than helpful to get non foodies through the menu without so much as a sneer. They enjoy the food they serve and that joy is infectious. For the PETA members, my animal lovers fear not. On one of many failed dates, I, a carnivore, was coerced into ordering Bobo Vegetariano, a Brazilian vegetable stew of in season veggies in a coconut/yucca puree. Did I like? Well, let's just say if my dinner companion had given me as much sensual joy, I'd be working on wife number two.

I suppose the one downside, if I must give my Uncle Simon his due, the prices are a bit high. But can you put a price on La Dolce Vita? Do yourself a favor. If as a child you always dreamt about running off to join the circus, visit Circus at 61st off of Lexington.