A Weekend in Prague

I'm an American who has lived most of the last four years in Prague, and while nobody has actually asked my advice regarding a list of 10 things a foreign visitor should know before visiting Prague, I thought I'd take it upon myself to perform such a service.

As an introduction for those who don't know, Prague is the capital city of the Czech Republic. Once the capital of the Holy Roman Empire and the Kingdom of Bohemia, the city fell out of favor with those in power in the 17^th Century as a result of the region having become a popular hotbed of religious dissent, which would eventually become known as the Protestant Reformation. For many years thereafter Prague was reduced to being an outpost of the Hapsburg Austro-Hungarian Empire. When that empire fell after WWI Prague once again became a capital city when the new nation of Czechoslovakia was created in 1918. During WWII, the Czech and Slovak lands were occupied by Hitler's German forces and after that war the Czechoslovak state fell under the influence of Stalin's Communist Soviet Union. That changed when, in 1989, the Velvet Revolution ushered in a free democratic government led by Vaclav Havel. In 1993, Czechoslovakia separated into two states, the Czech Republic and Slovakia. In 2004, the Czech Republic became a member of the European Union.

Today, Prague, with a population of approximately 1.2 million inhabitants, is the most vibrant, modern city in Central Europe. Abundant historical architecture from the Gothic, Baroque, and Neoclassical periods line the narrow cobble-stoned streets of the city, featuring both quaint and modern shops, restaurants, and pubs. Little touched by the 20^th Century's world wars, but filled with forward thinking minds, Prague is able to offer any visitor a unique experience of old and new.

Now: the 10 things a visitor should know before visiting Prague:

1) Taxicabs

When engaging a taxicab, please use what common sense you have and a bit of caution. Only get into a taxi that has a meter. Many, if not most, taxis in Prague do not have a meter; the fare is negotiated between the driver and the customer. Please do not try this method. You may think you can get a bargain, but I promise you that you won't. Two years ago, the mayor of Prague posed as a tourist in the Center of Prague and used these meter-less taxicabs in an effort to assess the problem, and he was swindled nearly time. They not only overcharge, but in some cases will extort extra money, an "exit fee" at the end of the trip. True story: when a friend of mine first came to Prague, he made the mistake of taking one of these taxi rides. When the driver approached the address, he announced that the fare would be double what was originally stated. My friend refused to pay, and the driver refused to stop. The driver said he would not stop the taxi until he got what he wanted. And so he started driving around the block. My friend said that they could ride around the block till the cab was out of gas. After about a half dozen spins around the block, the driver finally relented and accepted payment of the originally stated fare. Travel in taxis with meters and always ask for a receipt.

2) Money

Always carry cash (and coins) in Prague. Don't expect shops and restaurants to accept credit cards. Many do, but still many do not. Also, beware of the larger Czech banknotes, the 5000 and 2000. (The Czech Republic does not yet use the Euro currency; they still use the Czech Crown.) No, they're not counterfeit, but they are damn difficult to spend. Most places will not accept such bills for the very simple reason that they do not have enough change in the till. So, try to steer clear of these bills. What makes matters worse is that most Bankomats/ATMs distribute these large bills to unwitting tourists. I suggest trying to request an odd amount, something like 3800 Czech Crowns. You'll likely receive three 1000 notes and four 200 notes. In regards to coins, always keep a supply in your pocket. You'll need them to buy tickets for public transport (the machines do not accept cash) and for the toilet. Most public toilets cost three crowns, some cost more.

3) Language

Feel free to give it little thought. The Czech language is far too complicated to pick up after a quick study of a phrase book. Also , the Czech ear is not accustomed to hearing their language in a foreign accent, and as a result, it is difficult for them to understand foreigners speaking the Czech language. Any Czech you meet will know more English than you can ever learn Czech on a holiday. Speak plain English and point if you have to, and you'll have few problems communicating in Prague. That said, there is one useful word that you should learn: zaplatim. It is pronounced "ZAH-plah-teem." Literally, it means, "I pay," but it is the word used to ask for a bill in a restaurant or pub.

4) Must See Sights

Prague truly has an impressive list of "must see" sights. To start with, there is The Castle, which is the historic seat of the President of the Czech Republic. Then there is the historic Charles Bridge, built in the 15^th century, it is today a pedestrian bridge lined by 30 statues of historical and religious figures. In the Old Town Square, there is the marvelous Astronomical Clock dating again to the 15^th Century. There are many organized walking tours of Prague which begin at the steps in front of the clock. And lastly, there is Wenceslas Square in the New Town; it is the major shopping district.

5) Restaurants

Nobody goes to Prague for the food, but if you want to taste a little of the local fare, go with the pork. Anything with pork; the Czechs can get pretty creative with it. In the center of Prague, many restaurants add a service charge; it is best to ask about this before ordering. Also, the bread that is placed at your table is not complimentary; you will be charged for each slice taken. It is best to ask that it be removed if you do not want to eat any of it. In regards to gratuities, 10% is the standard tip.

6) Smoking

Prague is a smokers' haven. Though the laws are slowly changing, smokers still pretty much have the run of the city. Non-smoking sections in restaurants and pubs are nearly unheard of. And the better news for smokers is the price of smokes in the Czech Republic. A premium brand like Marlboro or Camel costs only the equivalent of $2.50 a pack. So remember that you can bring two cartons back to the States tax-free. For non-smokers, it's not as bad as one might think. Most Czechs who smoke are casual smokers who can stretch a pack out over a few days. The only bad situation I've encountered was in a windowless cellar pub with a table of six German tourists, all of whom were puffing away on Cuban cigars.

7) Beer

Ah, . . . beer! While there is no reason to go to Prague to eat, there is good reason to go there to drink. When it comes to popular beer, the Czech Republic arguably offers up the best beer in the world. The two premium brands are Pilsner Urquell and Budweiser Budvar (no relation to Anheuser-Busch). Pilsner (which is different than the bottled variety sold in the States) is light, yet full of hoppy flavor and is my favorite summer brew. Budvar is darker, heavier, and my favorite in winter. For every day beer drinking, Gambrinus is the Everyman's choice; it's the best leverage between cost and quality. Staropramen is the last major brew in the Czech Republic, traditionally sold as the working man's beer, it is today a little too pricey for the average factory worker, but for the tourist, it is still an affordable beer.

8) Food at Wenceslaus Square

The 24/7 food stands at Wenceslaus Square are both a godsend and a curse and tempt every passerby with their aromatic sausages, chicken, and fried cheese served up fast and cheap. And if you only eat their fare every once in a long while, it won't kill you. That is to say that the food is not exactly health food. More importantly, I suggest paying for your fix with exact change. If you expect the women who work there to provide you with change, you'll likely not receive the correct amount, and the women will simply ignore you, feign ignorance of English when you complain, and move on to the next customer.

9) Personal Safety

Prague, when compared to Western cities, is a very safe city in regards to violent crime. You don't have to worry about being murdered or mugged or anything of the sort. That said, petty theft is rampant in Prague, and any visitor should take precautions. To underestimate the craftiness and subtlety of Prague's petty thieves is an invitation to get victimized. Czech people do not ordinarily speak to strangers on the street; so if a stranger does approach you, please feel free to be suspicious. Many of the thieves work in teams and any innocent question from a stranger can be a diversion meant to draw your attention away from your possessions. So, please, at all times, be aware of your possessions! I cannot emphasize this enough.

10) Public Transportation

The Metro (or subway) system is fairly straightforward and easy to use. It is relatively clean, safe, and efficient. The underground system, however, shuts down at around midnight. But don't despair, there is a night tram service which services the city pretty well. It is not, however, well advertised. At every tram stop, there are printed schedules. The night trams are the ones numbered in the 50s; They run every 30 minutes and almost always run on schedule.