Abu Dhabi: A Precious Jewel in the Emirates Crown

Abu Dhabi, the capital of the United Arab Emirates, is the richest and largest of the seven emirates. A veritable "rags to riches" story, no more than 40 years ago, Abu Dhabi was a dusty cluster of tented communities dedicated to pearl fishing around the archipelago, composed of some 200 islands. Today, Abu Dhabi is a country of phenomenal growth and wealth that no longer sits in the shadows of Dubai. Abu Dhabi now receives global recognition, and it's considered a vibrant, modern, and cosmopolitan emirate.

Business as Usual

Since the Abu Dhabi emirate owns more than 90% of the UAE's oil reserves and produces over 85 percent of its oil, several oil companies are located here, contributing to its status as a major business, manufacturing and trading centre. Despite its national and regional importance, Abu Dhabi City manages to retain peaceful demeanor, with fewer traffic problems than Dubai, for example.

On Traditions and Hospitality

Most travel guides speak of the traditions and hospitality of this vibrant emirate, and how Abu Dhabi is by far the most tolerant and welcoming country to visitors in the Middle East. The Western visitors can wear their preferred style of dress, gather at restaurants, eat, drink, and be merry (except during the month of Ramadan).

The local Emirati proudly wears the national dress: the "dish-dash", a long white shirt-dress, and for women, the "abaya," a long, flowing black dress, along with a head-scarf or "sheyla" is worn out in public. However, you'll probably never see an Emirati wearing Western clothing in Abu Dhabi.

In spite of its tolerance of Western ways, it was my perception that in Abu Dhabi, the Emirati prefers to avoid social contact with Westerners as much as possible, thus giving them an air of aloofness. Ask a question from a local Emirati and it will be answered in a polite, curt manner, but never really opening themselves to a Westerner. I found the Emirati to be somewhat cold and impersonal towards visitors.

No need to worry, you'll still be treated like a guest of honor at hotels and top-rated restaurants, as the service industry is staffed with people from all over the world, including other Middle Easterners (but not the rich UAE), and they make-up for the Emirati's coldness. Service tends to be outstanding in restaurants, hotels, shops, transportation, etc.

Religion

A Muslim country, five times a day you'll hear the melodic call to prayer emanating from the many mosques in the area. On Friday mornings, most shops will be closed as a sign of respect for the Islamic holy day.

Ramadan is widely observed, and the 30-day period of fasting is strictly observed. During this period, Muslims may not drink, eat, or smoke during daylight. Non-Muslims are expected not to drink, eat, or smoke during daylight hours, and restaurant, food shops, etc. do not open until sundown. Each day of fasting is broken at sunset, and usually elaborate dinners follow each evening.

Daily Life in Abu Dhabi

There are many modern homes and apartment buildings, and many more are being built, but not with the frenzy found in Dubai.

All the Western comforts and conveniences can be found in this shiny city, from well-stocked supermarkets, upscale shopping malls, well-cared for parks and beaches, to a state-of-the-art airport.

The Tourist and Abu Dhabi

Driving: It'srelatively easy to find your way around the city, but do know that during rush hour, traffic can be mean, and many foreigners are not quite used to the rules of the road, adding an element of stress to your driving. Nevertheless, if you can manage to be on the roads between 9:30 am and 3:30 pm, you'll enjoy a leisurely drive around the city.

Touring the Corniche

The Corniche is a coastal boulevard, adorned with gardens, fountains, beautiful buildings, and villas. The gardens are expansive and green; it was definitely hard to believe we were in the desert! The local princes wish to make Abu Dhabi a green oasis, a magnificent respite from the desert that surrounds it and vast desalinization plants are in place to make fresh water abundant and inexpensive!

The famous Corniche is a popular public venue where you'll see joggers, pedestrians, cyclists, enjoying the views of the turquoise ocean and the many gardens. During our stay, I took advantage of this beautiful setting and went out for a jog along the Corniche every morning, at 5:30 am (to avoid the sweltering heat); it was a very rewarding experience!

A drive along the Corniche will reward you with the views of architecturally stunning buildings, villas, and that beautiful turquoise ocean that hugs the Corniche. Follow the Corniche up to the point the road turns inland toward the carpet and Iranian market souks, and stop at the souks to admire the vast selection of intricately woven carpets, and if you decide to purchase one, be sure to haggle the price over a cup of coffee or tea which will surely be offered to you by the shopkeeper. In the food section of the souk, sample the astonishing variety of Arabian dates, the sweetest fruits you will ever taste, and don't forget to look at the spice bins, where you'll be mesmerized by the aromas and colors of the merchandise.

Walk over to Al Nasr Street, an enclave of antique and jewelry shops, also great for browsing, but somehow tends to be overpriced, unless you are an excellent haggler.

The Corniche continues to DhowHarbor, where craftsmen build traditional wooden dhows, and is a good spot to stop and take photos of the traditional boats.

Not far from Dhow Harbor is Bithnah Harbour and weather permitting (mostly in the evenings during the hot summer months) I'm told is a lovely spot to linger over a drink while admiring the modern Abu Dhabi's skyline. Since we were touring during the day, we only drove to this spot and indeed the views of the skyline are spectacular!

Follow the Corniche along the wide beaches to the very end, where the impressive Emirates Palace Hotel stands. One thing you cannot miss about this hotel is the fact that it has two driveways: one opulent, uphill, complete with an ornate arch at the summit, to be used only by the royal families, and foreign dignitaries who are guests of the UAE, and the second one, is the average road (elegant, nevertheless) that leads to the hotel lobby.

The Emirates Palace

A visit to the Emirates Palace is the must-see icon of Abu Dhabi, and it is without a doubt one of the world's most lavish and opulent hotels, complete with 114 mosaic-covered domes. The hotel stretches along a mile of coastline, and visitors (non-guests) are allowed to meander through the hotel's public areas, visit the restaurants or the spa.

We took a tour of the facility and were in awe of its splendor, with its gold-gilded columns, chandeliers, etc. It's rather spectacular, imagine the number of hours that were put into building this hotel, as well the amount of money it cost to build it... a staggering US$3 billion! Now, in spite of its grandeur and glitz, it doesn't suit our tastes, and found it a bit garish.

Abu Dhabi History and Culture

Qasr Al-Hosn Palace: A visit to the "White Fort", as most people call it, will give you the best perspective of Abu Dhabi's nomadic history. Built in 1761, it is the city's oldest relic and it was the former residence of the Al Nahyan family, Abu Dhabi's ruling family. The huge compound now houses a museum and theater; the palace and the Cultural Foundation are on the same compound.

The Cultural Foundation: Founded in 1981 and dedicated as the center of art and learning. The National Library, and the National Archives with its collection of 4,000-year-old manuscripts are found here. When we visited, we were able to enter the Children's Center, and we saw many small kids participating in an arts and crafts seminar.

Bedouin Traditions

Heritage Village: You will find this "living museum" of local and Bedouin culture by the Breakwater. This is permanent exhibit of a Bedouin encampment and it has been faithfully replicated to include mud-brick houses, a traditional mosque, a corral for a few goats and camels, a living-well, complete with a bull to pull the buckets of water upwards, and a traditional souk where you watch artisans created works of arts, and you can also purchase local arts and crafts. It's definitely worth a visit, but if you're there during the hottest months, you should arrive at 9:00 am when the doors open, or return at sundown. The hours of operation are (9:00 to 13:00 and 17:00 to 21:00 hrs). Admission is free.

Dining Out

Eating is an important part of culture in the Middle East, and in Abu Dhabi, it is no exception. Here you will find a good selection of international cuisine restaurants, but one should probably indulge in the cuisine of the Middle East as it is satisfying and delicious!

Of special mention restaurants:

Vasco's: Probably among the nicest hotels in Abu Dhabi and located at the Hilton Hotel. An international buffet which includes a good number of Middle Eastern dishes is offered daily. Although a bit pricey, the food is varied and consistently delicious. Alcohol is served.

Lebanese Flower: Located near Choitram- Al Khalidiya, this is one of the most popular Lebanese restaurants in town. Decorated in a Mediterranean fashion, this is a happy place with outstanding Lebanese food. Indulge in outrageously delicious baba ghanoush, hummus, meshi (stuffed mini-eggplants), and the most delicious Arabic bread that when it's brought to your table is still puffed up from baking in the oven. Extremely reasonably priced. No alcohol is served.

India Palace: Located on Salam Street, this restaurant offers excellent and authentic Indian food. This restaurant decorated to remind the guests of a Raj's palace. Alcohol is not served, but who needs alcoholic spirits when you can have a delicious mango lassi!

Shamyat: Located near the Regency Hotel, this restaurant serves authentic Arabic cuisine. The setting is very nice, with lots of plants, a water fountain. Highly recommended!

Beyond Abu Dhabi - Day Trips

The oasis city of Al Ain - also called the "Garden City", the 30-mile drive east on good roads, to see the lush, date-palm-filled Qattarah Oasis and its relic-filled museum is well-worth it. The Al Ain camel market is filled with noise as vendors showcase their grunting, smelling, drooling beasts. An interesting day trip and I recommend it!

In addition to Al Ain, there are excursions available from many hotel lobbies in central Abu Dhabi to remote beaches, scuba diving, yachting, deep-sea fishing, and championship golf. For those seeking more adventure, head to the desert for a camel ride, sand boarding or a dune bashing safari.

Getting There

You may enter the UAE through Dubai and then take a bus or taxi to Abu Dhabi, or you may fly directly to AD from several European cities and some cities in the U.S. Abu Dhabi has a state-of the art airport.

Best Time to Go

The months of May through October are extremely hot, with daily temperatures exceeding 105F. Respite from the heat and humidity can be had during November through late April, and as such, you can expect most tourists to visit during this period. During the month of August, probably the hottest month of the year, practically every hotel is running empty, and incredible deals can be found, if you can stand the heat of at least 115F every day!

If you wish to see some of my Abu Dhabi photos, please visit: http://travel.webshots.com/album/560592270QldGJR

Summary

Abu Dhabi is most definitely a modern, cosmopolitan emirate, and it is interesting to see how its rulers are carefully designing the future of this vibrant state so that once their oil reserves are depleted, income can be derived from other venues, such as the Arts and Entertainment.

Abu Dhabi's yet most ambitious project is under way, to be completed in 2012. The government of Abu Dhabi signed an agreement with France to build a branch of the Louvre Museum. The agreement calls for the construction of a 24, 000 sq. ft museum to be called the Louvre Abu Dhabi. Several works of art from the Louvre, Paris, will be on temporary exhibits at the new museum.

In addition to the Louvre, in the Arts and Entertainment venue will house a Guggenheim museum, the Saadiyat Performing Arts Center, and the Maritime Museum, with the Guggenheim being built by Frank Gehry, of course. A wing at the Emirates Palace is dedicated to the Arts and Entertainment Centre project, and tourists may go in there to see schematics, architectural renditions, and pictures of this grandiose enterprise.

Time permitting, a visit to this pretty city should be part of your itinerary when visit the United Arab Emirates.

Thanks for reading.