Settle on what you want. Are you looking a coupe or a sedan? A pickup or a station wagon? A roadster or a grand tourer? Finding the type of vehicle you want is the first step. What period are you searching for? Obviously, finding cars and trucks from before World War II is a lot harder than finding those after. A car from the middle 1960s and early �70s will be quite different than one from the middle �70s onward. Cars from the middle 1970s were visibly affected by strict impact and emissions standards imposed by the US government, and, to collectors, made less desirable than those from the early �70s and before.
Do you want domestic or foreign? Most vintage foreign cars tend to be smaller. Japan, Italy, Britain, and Germany are not large countries. They are densely populated, have small streets in their antique cities, and must deal with high fuel costs. These are reflected in their automobiles. Keep this in mind: while an Austin Mini or a Morris Minor looks like a more economical choice than a Pontiac Firebird or a Ford Galaxie, supply parts and service costs for these vehicles are higher than their domestic counterparts. Whereas Fords and Chevys have a huge aftermarket parts and service base, Fiats and Citr�ens don't. That's not always the case-Volkswagens and Datsuns are exceptions. They were widely popular in their hey day here in the States and still are.
What brand of vehicle do you want? This is crucial. By knowing what kind of vehicle-be it a Buick or a Jaguar-you can get in touch with organizations and auto clubs specializing in those marques. Club events and Internet forums are great locations to gain knowledge and advice on the vehicle you have in your sights. Check out the Hemmings website to locate a club for your make of automobile in your area. Club events and online message boards can tell you where to find a marque specialist near you.
Dead or "deported" marques mean trouble. Finding parts for a 1969 AMC AMX is going to be a lot harder than finding parts for a �69 Mustang, since AMC no longer exists. Lancia and Alfa-Romeo are makes that fall under the "deported" category. They continue to live on in their homelands, but are no longer present in the United States. If you are considering one of these types of vehicles, it is very important you find parts suppliers and information resources in advance of a purchase. Look at your local bookstore or the Web for any publications covering the marque you're looking at.
Practicality. Is this vehicle going to be a weekend ride or a daily driver? If you're a college student just making ends meet, buying a big Caddy would not fall under the practical category. If you're willing to stuff fifty bucks two or three times a week to keep that big �60s coupe alive with its 6.7 L V-8, than go ahead. If not, settle for a vehicle with a smaller engine. If you want your car to have the calm ride of a Lexus, than a small and cramped British roadster won't be for you. Use common sense in any purchase.
You decided you want a middle 1960s American sport coupe. It's cheap, easy to find, and service parts are simple to locate. Great. What model series are you interested in? Better question: what year do you want? Research is critical. While a �66 model may have the same body as a �65, there could be a big difference under that steel skin. Maybe the �66 is harder to find. There may be a mechanical fault in the �65 editions. Back in the old days, manufacturers (especially American) did frequent cosmetic and engineering modifications annually. Gather as much info on year-to-year stats on the vehicle model you want. Look at options, trim levels, standard equipment, technical faults, and production figures. (It could be that the factory only built 10,000 �66s as opposed to 100,000 �65s-a big collector's difference.)
You found that �66 Buick Riviera you dreamed of since you were a teen. What next? Know what you are looking at. Have a mechanic or someone with mechanical expertise (if not yourself) examine any problems with the vehicle. Smalls dents, scratches, or chips in the paint aren't issues. But a fried clutch, worn transmission, and a high-miles engine are. Don't panic if something comes up. Make a list of any problems, big or small, that are revealed. Take it in stride. Is it urgent? Will it prevent the vehicle from doing its functions? Find the costs of parts you'll need to fix the problems and get an estimate from your mechanic if you aren't doing the repair work yourself. Can that fit into your budget? Negotiate the price down to help factor the repair costs in the purchase total. If you're looking at a $7,000 Chevy that'll need a $1,500 transmission job, convince the seller to give the car up for $6,000. Try to manage every step economically.
Beware of scammers. If you see a nice 1969 Pontiac Trans-Am for just $10,000, look at the vehicle identification number. You can find out how to decode vehicles from the Internet and learn what the letters and numbers indicate. That Trans-Am might've been just a simple Firebird with a lowly 6 cyl. engine just a year ago. Any "serious" collectibles should be reviewed with an expert. Not all are scams. Some vehicles are advertised as "clones" of special cars. Sometimes it can be worse than that. Could be that Porsche Speedster is just a kit car.
You don't need a guide for this stuff. It's common sense. Just take things slowly before making a car purchase and you'll end up with something you can enjoy. That's what buying a classic car is about: enjoyment.
Published by Bubba Clint
Bubba Clint, a master of love and writing, is the great figure of today. With knowledge, good looks, and plenty of sex appeal, he has come a long way since being born in a outdoor rehab center in the Ozarks. View profile
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