All Bets Are Off at Philadelphia's Funkiest Lounge

Anchoring the new Liberties Walk complex in the funky Northern Liberties section of Philadelphia, is the modern neighborhood lounge Deuce. Owner Laura Vernola opened Deuce as a neighborhood bar-tricky in the bohemian but gentrifying locale. Deuce meets the mark, melding the scruffy and hip with the trendy and fashionable.

The interior is an inviting crimson, conversely soothing and exciting. Décor is modern, with a retro twist. This is the key to Deuce, the constant idea of duality(Deuce means two, bozo). On the night we visited, a crowd of friendly and boisterous locals sat in tables that flank the front of the complex. Sidewalk dining is available in finer weather with pups welcome, eating from a lil doggie menu.

Executive Chef Matt Ball created a menu featuring weekly specials and consistent favorites. "I create adult appealing comfort food, contemporary cuisine with twists. Food that ranges from vegan to foo-foo." Duality! Ball's menu indulges all five senses. Flavors, textures, smells, and presentation are considered carefully. Say the dishes name aloud, and they sound good.

We started with the butternut squash bisque, garnished with walnut dust ($3/5). The soup lays heavy on the palate, giving the full flavor. A seasonal item, it is a wonderful reminder of passing autumn. Deuce has unique starters, so we indulged in several selections. First was the everything-spice-crusted ahi tuna served with honey wasabi, soy mustard and chipotle coulis ($10). Imagine the outer-bits on an everything bagel, wrapped around tender tuna. Next was the crab stuffed piquillo peppers, a balance of hot and spicy. Lump crab stuffed withsmooth and rich boursin crème cheese($8).

The champion of the starters was the Cajun shrimp waffle ($8). The combination sounded a bit too mad-Top Chef, but under the advisement of Chef Ball, we acquiesced. No disappointment. The honey jalapeno cornbread waffle drips with maple mango barbeque sauce, while perched atop is perfectly seasoned Cajun shrimp. So many flavors, they shouldn't work, but they do. Ball admits this tricky sell isn't a customer's first choice. But trust, you won't regret ordering it.
Having gorged on starters, we split two main courses: honey glazed short ribs on potato au gratin ($15); and juniper berry and pink peppercorn crusted pork on potato puree with roasted crab apple dumpling and cinnamon caramel drizzle ($19). The ribs were tender, juicy, and quickly a table favorite. The pork was delicious, almost outshined by the potato puree and the truly unique crab apple dumpling.

No matter how fat we felt, we demanded a taste of the Bananas Foster Crème Brulee ($6). A mixture of sugar, bananas and rum; the desert was a perfect finale.
Deuce is a cab ride or leisurely walk from Center City. In the end, a few bucks spent on transportation is worth it for a fine meal. Have a car? Then give us a lift! Parking is ample. If you live in Philadelphia's Northern Liberties, you should make it a weekly haunt. The food is incredible, the beer and wine selection is superb, and there is nightly action we just don't have space to discuss. Make a wager with your appetite, and double down with Deuce.

Deuce, 1040 N Second St, Philadelphia, 215-413-3822, Mon-Fri, 11am-2pm and 5pm-1am, Sat, 3pm-1am, Sun, 4pm-1am.