Amtrak Empire Builder to Whitefish, Montana Ski Vacation Review and Guide

Being from Minnesota, ski choices amount to small hills toted as "mountains" by the local "resorts," in an effort by the ski lodge's marketing department to convince us Midwesterners that we're actually skiing down winding mountain trails. Lutsen, Spirit Mountain, Afton Alps, Welch Village, Buck Hill--meh, they just don't compare to real mountain skiing out West. So instead, we took the Amtrak's Empire Builder out to Whitefish, Montana for a few days of skiing.

What's the Amtrak Empire Builder like?
Now, I know what you're thinking: "Yuck, the Amtrak is smelly. It's maybe one step above a Greyhound bus"; or "What the heck am I going to do for 36-72 hours on a train? How boring!"; "How am I going to sleep? I'm going to wake up with a backache!" I understand. I felt that way too, before I gave it a chance.

It isn't smelly. The seats, even the regular "Coach" seats, are extremely comfortable. You can bring food, games, your computer (yes, some cars have electrical outlets for each seat. If you don't have one on your particular car, you can ask to move, or just sit in an empty seat in an equipped car to use your computer), books and whatever else you want. You can move about the train as you please--the observation cars are wonderful--lots of roomy booths and. Oh, and you can get booze in the dining room and in the snack car. I slept just fine--it was quiet and comfy...plus in a weird way, it was fun to wake up, look out the window, and not know where you are! I used the bathroom to freshen up in the morning, and showered when we got to the hotel.

Lots of luggage is necessary for a ski vacation and with airline's checked baggage fees skyrocketing by the day, Amtrak is a wonderful and thrifty option. You can bring your skis, all of your bags without worry of losing your luggage or paying extra fees.

And the scenery! Wow! The majority of your Empire Builder ride takes place in the plains of North Dakota and Eastern Montana, but when you approach Glacial National Park in Montana, wow! Beautiful. Unfortunately, when the train's going Westward, you approach the park during the evening, so you can't see much. On the way back through, it's all viewable! I enjoyed seeing some of the dusty small towns through--it's just a part of the United States I wouldn't otherwise ever see.

If you're thinking the Amtrak will be filled with scary people, much like a Greyhound bus, you're wrong. People of all backgrounds travel on the Amtrak: families, college students, seniors--you name it. I'm not much for making "friends" on the Amtrak--we just kept to ourselves. But if you're into that sort of thing, there are plenty of people to meet: in the dining rooms, snack car, observation car, and even near your seats.

Amtrak Midwest-West Ski Routes
Amtrak has two Midwest-West routes going through popular ski resort destinations. The California Zephyer travels through several popular Colorado, Utah, and Lake Tahoe-area resorts. The Empire Builder stops in Whitefish, Montana. Passengers may check up to two bags per person. We went on the Empire Builder in January 2010. We got on at the stop in St. Paul, Minnesota. Our hotel had a free shuttle waiting at the train station. The shuttle bus brought us to the Whitefish resort area and dropped us off at our hotel. When our vacation was over, the hotel front desk called the shuttle, and he picked us up in plenty of time to catch the train (we had to get up early; the train left around 7:30 a.m from Whitefish.

How much does an Amtrak trip cost?
Round-trip tickets on Amtrak typically run between $195-$280 per adult--cheaper than driving (consider gas, overnight hotel stays, and vehicle wear and tear), and definitely more economical than flying. Still contemplating driving? Consider this: Winter driving through the Great Plains states can be treacherous. Even the slightest winds can lead to blizzard-like conditions and low visibility. When we were going through North Dakota, the visibility was next to nothing--and it wasn't even snowing; it was just the blowing and drifting snow.

Relax and let the train do the trekking!