An Introduction to the Coif: Medieval Headwear

As a medieval re-enactor, I find myself doing a considerable amount of research and costume construction. It has been my experience that most pre-made garments are, to some degree, historically inaccurate. Thus, I have begun my own research.

Almost everyone has seen a coif (also called a biggin) before, even if they didn't know what it was. A coif is the little linen skullcap seen predominantly on peasant men in medieval artwork. Some pictures can be seen here. The coif, however, was a staple of medieval dress for both men and women. Pictures of women in coifs are rarer because women usually wore their coifs under some form of hood or headdress. The coif served several purposes. First of all, it kept one's hair out of the way while one was working. Secondly, it provided warmth. For this reason it could be worn both during the day and at night. Thirdly, in an age when bathing was not a frequent occurrence, the coif kept hair oils off of more elaborate hoods and headdresses. The coif was usually washable, while the hoods, which were made of finer fabrics, were not.

There were slight differences between the men's and women's coifs. The men's coif fitted closely to the head. The women's coif, on the other hand, had a slight poof at the back. This was important because in the Middle Ages, all women had long hair. The appropriate hairstyle for the period would have been to braid one's hair then put the braid in a circle on the back of one's head. In the middle ages, this was done by "sewing" a ribbon around the braid and catching the hair next to the scalp. Today, it is much easier to use bobby pins for this hairstyle, especially if it will be hidden under a coif anyhow. The back of the women's coif had a drawstring that could be pulled as tightly as needed to accommodate the woman's hair. The ends were then tied back to each other at the back of the neck.

There has been some dispute as to the construction of the coif among re-enactors. Many drawings from the medieval ages seem to show the coif as being made from two or three pieces of fabric. However, all the surviving example are made from only one piece. The coif could also be made with or without a chin strap. Some re-enactors have had difficulty keeping a one-piece coif without a chin strap on while working. My own experience has been that, when the drawstring of the women's coif is tied, it pulls the front of the coif tightly enough in front of the ears that it stays on quite well. The coif can also be kept on more securely using bobby pins if necessary.

Coifs were traditionally made out of linen, silk, or wool. A silk coif might or might not be lined. Coifs were almost always white or off-white, although on very rare occasions a wealthy woman might own a colored coif. Coifs were often beautifully and ornately embroidered and edged with white, black, or metallic lace along the front. Most of the coifs surviving today were embroidered. This is largely because the finer pieces of clothing from any period are the ones that get preserved. Among the common folk, clothing was reused until the fabric dissolved. Examples of embroidered coifs can be seen here. These examples are all one piece coifs that are laid flat, not sewn and gathered as they would be when they were worn.

As you can see, the coif was a ubiquitous garment and is a must for anyone trying to accurately recreate the wardrobe of the middle ages. Although styles changed very slightly over time, the coif was worn for an exceedingly long time period by people from all walks of life.

Sources:
http://www.virtue.to/articles/coif.html
http://www.elizabethancostume.net/headwear/coifpics.html