An Introduction to Indian Made Jewelry

MG SINGH
Ornamental designs made of metals or other material is referred to as jewelry. However gold, silver and diamonds are the preferred materials used for jewelry. All over the world jewelry is part and parcel of adornment for a woman. Women love it though some forms of jewelry may appeal to men as well. India is no exception and the sub continent is host to a variety of exotic designs that are breath taking and lovely. Manufacture of jewelry in India dates from the time of the civilizations of Harappa and Mohenjo- daro which existed nearly 5000 years back. In addition diamonds were also mined in India as early as 296BC.

Indian jewelry over the centuries has carved a niche for itself in the world. During this period the sub continent has seen invaders enter through the west . This has resulted in a synthesis of cultures and the Greek and Muslim invaders have left their mark on the designs of Indian jewelry. Indian jewelry as it has developed is not only an adornment for a woman but also a part of the worship of the pantheon of Hindu Gods.

India is a vast country almost as large as the continent of Europe. As such there is no composite designs available but depending upon the different regions of this vast sub continent the designs and styles vary from region to region. The eastern part of India which is home to the states of Assam and Nagaland has a distinct style of jewelry that differs from the rest of the country.. Nagaland is a tribal region and just about a century back the tribal's were head hunters .They have their own distinctive designs. In Nagaland gold is used to make tribal emblems which take the form of a funnel. The tribal's also add shells, animal teeth and claws to the jewelry as they feel it appeases their gods. Assam is rich in natural flora and fauna. The rich fauna and flora influence the jewelry of the people here and they use 24 carat soft gold to make earrings and necklaces.

Coming west wards from Assam the states of Orissa and Andhra Pradesh come in purview. In these states silver work in a fine open design is popular. Deeper south the states of Tamilnadu and Kerela the jewelry is again having a different flavor. Here the use of solid gold is paramount. This is used to adorn the gods and temples. Again the local flora and fauns also influence the designs. As the Cobra is considered a divine being a lot of designs incorporate the cobra hoods. In addition rice grains and melon and cucumber seeds also influence the designs. Hindu Gods in the temples at Nagercoil in Tamilnadu are adorned with gold ornaments which are studded with red and green semi precious stones. These form part of the ritual of worship of the gods.

.Ladakh the northern most part of the country makes jewelry that is supposed to be dedicated to the gods. The Buddhist monasteries have stored vast quantities of jewelry. Silver charm boxes and headdresses are common in this region as they reflect Buddhist culture..

The western part of the country has the influence of the Muslim invaders. The Mogul rulers who ruled through seven dynasties developed the Meenakari and Kundan styles of jewelry. Meenakari and Kundan jewelry styles are popular in the manufacture of chokers and necklaces.

Kundan jewelry consists of precious or semi-precious stones being set in various metals. It is peculiar to India and not very costly. The best part is that it can be made in a variety of colors to match the dress a lady may wear.On the other hand Meenakari jewelry is enameling different colors on the surface of various metals. This enameling protects the metal and has great aesthetic beauty.

Madhya Pradesh, Gujarat and Rajasthan in the central and western regions of India are home to Meenakari and Kundan forms of jewelry. Exports of this design of jewelry are on the rise and popular among the large migrant population of Indian origin in the USA and other countries.

The Government of India has formed the GJEPC( Gems and Jewelry Export council). This is a body to propagate Indian exports .Nearly 7000 jewelers from all corners of India are members of this council. The main thrust of the council is to popularize Indian made jewelry all over the world. The interest in Indian jewelry is on the upswing and exports are rising by the day.

Published by MG SINGH

Widely travelled in India and abroad, Madan is an Air Force officer who opted for premature retirement.Madan had a checkered career in the air force where he commanded 3 Air force Units, is an alumini of th...  View profile

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