An Oasis on Hubbard Street: Kevin Restaurant in Chicago, Illinois

With a popular sports bar on one side and a nightclub on the other, Kevin could not seem more out of place. This block of Hubbard Street is home to three other bars and club, with the usual suspects lined up outside. The first time, I wondered what I had gotten myself into.

Kevin proves to be an oasis in the middle of a dining desert. Immediately upon entering, my fears were assuaged. Soft organic hues, old jazz, and a seven-seat bar framed in what looks like a minimalist Frank Gehry take on a deconstructed pagoda greets the hungry visitor who wanders in. Oh, wait, few wander in...most guests seek out Kevin.

The dining room is long, somewhat narrow, but not cramped. Light walls, a high ceiling and purple rice paper lights make Kevin more spacious. Bas-relief stalks of wheat line one wall with cushy booths along the other. This place is for "inside voices."

A drink at the bar is recommended, but hardly required. There isn't an emphasis on cheesy specialty drinks or martinis, but if that is what you are into, the bartender is game.

What Kevin does offer is a superb wine list, which is so extensive I have never read the whole thing. Not that I haven't tried, but my servers have always been quick to make a good suggestion, I just give up and give in.

Kevin takes its name from Chef Kevin Shikami, formally of Confusion in Chicago. He is one of those chefs who is actually in the kitchen, every night, behind the line, cooking. That seems like such an anachronism now that it could be considered quaint. He changes the menu daily, working with what is delivered that morning.

You absolutely must try the tuna tartare. Yes, yes, tartare is becoming so ubiquitous it will soon be passe, but Kevin's is outstanding. Kevin is Japanese, so it is an Asian-inspired tartare, with a deft touch of wasabi and soy, seaweed, pickles, and a slice of seared tuna to mark a contrast of the fish.

Other appetizers are all so enticing, that on one occasion, I ordered nothing but starters. I must have been Spanish in another life, as I tend to nosh on several dishes, tapas-style, even when I don't mean to. Kevin likes to work with a lot of seafood, such as scallops and prawns, but his oxtail moo shu was the highlight of one evening. And if you have the right server, you can artfully inquire as to whether the now-illegal-in-Chicago fois gras is on the menu that night.

I would not go so far as to say that Kevin does Japanese cuisine per se, but there is a healthy portion of Japanese ingredients on his menu. In my eyes, that is a good thing. He is somewhat playful in style as well. A server told me that Kevin's vegetarian entrée is sushi rice and pickled vegetables wrapped in a portobello skin rather than nori. That is clever, and tempting even for a carnivore like myself.

Kevin serves carefully constructed entrees. Some are more classic, like seared Bison with red wine reduction; some have a Chinese twist, such as pork loin with Chinese mustard and pot stickers. I have heard that Kevin is quite the man when it comes to broth, so his sauces are delicate but flavorful. In any case, they are indispensable to the dish in question.

Service is on point at Kevin. It's not overly stuffy, and the servers have personalities. Especially Carlos. But one thing that I look for in a server is knowledge. You can tell that the kitchen communicates its fare with the servers, and the servers pay attention.

I will also admit that dessert is key to an exceptional dining experience for me. Much like the dinner menu, desserts are carefully prepared daily by Pastry Chef Cindy Schuman (formerly of Aubriot). I would go so far as to say the final course of your meal at Kevin will be decadent, classic with a tendency toward seasonal products.

However, if you are one of those people who skip dessert, your server will bring out petit fours because every good girl or boy deserves chocolate.

Kevin is open for lunch as well, so if you are not one to spend upwards of $150 to $200 for dinner for two, try lunch. There is no excuse to not eat good food, and Kevin's lunch is an affordable alternative that still offers fresh seafood and impeccable presentation.

Kevin

9 West Hubbard

Chicago, Illinois

312.595.0055

www.kevinrestaurant.com