Azalea: Unbeatable Brunch in Philadelphia's Old City

If breakfast is the most important meal of the day, then brunch is the most important meal of the weekend. The meal should take hours, the menu should have enough options to satisfy the calorie-conscious and the carb-consuming, and the surroundings should be upscale, relaxing and unpretentious. A tall order, and while many brunchaterias can meet one or two of the requirements, it's hard to find a trifecta winner.

Up for the challenge is the Azalea Restaurant at the Omni Hotel. I'm wary of hotel food; it's usually exorbitantly over-priced and as bland as cardboard. But the Azalea is not a Howard Johnson's. The food is mind-blowing, and laid out in a spread that goes on for days.

I didn't need to be asked twice before diving into the buffet line. First plate featured a made-to-order omelet, waffle drenched in syrup, and some turkey bacon. Second plate was piled high with fine cheeses, a tasting of the homemade potato salad, and some of the incredible pasta selection of the day. My bruncher-in-crime tried the sushi and made friends with the young lady at the carving station, sampling thick slices of all the well-cooked meat in attendance. (His cholesterol and blood pressure are just fine, thankyouverymuch). I'd honestly burn through this page and the next if I had to list everything we gorged on , but rest assured that anything reasonably edible is available, and it's all unreasonably delicious. We washed the entire feast down with several perfectly-made mimosas and gallons of the incredible house hot tea that came in a package so adorable you have to see it to believe it.

Since I gave up purging a while ago, I took a breather and let the food settle before working on course number three. The Azalea's windows overlook historic Old City parks, and the midday sun adds a nice touch of sparkle to the French inspired décor. The tiger print chairs are either absolutely marvy or a hot style debate to help you burn off calories. While most of the customers are hotel guests, the Omni isn't the kind of place to let in riff-raff looking for a breakfast sandwich special. This is a four star hotel, folks, so you've got four star guests enjoying the four star food.

And back to the food! With me bursting towards a pants-busting ending, we wrapped up our brunch tour de force. Chocolate, and pounds of it, is always the best way for me to finish a meal, while my 30-inch waist pal went with the fresh fruit selections. The Azalea has a chocolate fountain (you know, like the kind those ungrateful brats have on "My Super Sweet 16") so I started dipping everything from waffles to fresh shrimp in the sweet cocoa. (Honest to God, I did.) Along with the hot dripping chocolate fantasy, there were plenty of cakes, pies and other treats to keep your sugar level soaring well into tomorrow.

The Azalea is a perfect brunch to splurge on, a place to go when you have plenty of time to enjoy fine food in a wonderful setting. If you're looking for a stately option, a far cry from scrapple, hash browns, and over easies, then the Azalea is stellar choice for whiling away some luxurious hours on a Sunday afternoon.

The Azalea, The Omni Hotel, 401 Chestnut St, 215-925-000, $39.95