Backstage Pass to Montreal

On every trip to Montreal, I discover something else to love about it. To me, Montreal is the New York of Canada. It has the urban energy and diverse culture of a metropolitan city, a thriving art scene that receives serious support from the government, and the charm of a French neighborhood. While Paris may be the City of Light, Montreal is the City of Festivals.

Last summer, I attended the annual Just for Laughs Comedy Festival, a world-class event featuring international stars as well as many of Montreal's entertaining street performers. I spent the weekend hanging out with Caroline Rhea...well, actually I just rode the elevator at the Hyatt with her several times a day. She was incredibly friendly, chatting with fans and posing for pictures. The hotel was ground zero for the visiting comedians and festival-goers, as well as the host of the comedy conference that was going on during the 11-day event.

I've also been to Montreal's world-famous jazz festival, also held in the summer. Again, the Hyatt was the center of the buzz, and I watched the first night of performances from its spacious terrace, which has a great view of the main stage. But even if your nights are filled with laughter or music, save some energy for exploring by day, because Montreal is overflowing with fabulous food, great art, and charming historic neighborhoods.

The Old City

Montreal is divided into two distinct halves: the old city and the modern city. At the heart of the Old City is the magnificent Notre-Dame Basilica, constructed in 1829. While its exterior mirrors that of Notre Dame in Paris, it's interior was inspired by the Sainte-Chapelle. If you have a chance to attend a service here, they are free to visitors, but you can also tour during non-worship hours for a donation of $5. On weekends, this is a popular place for weddings, and also where the horse-drawn carriages queue for an enjoyable ride through the old town.

Distinctly French, the Old City is filled with charming boutiques, antique shops, restaurants, and street performers and artists. During the summer months, the waterfront is teeming with boats and bicyclists, and in winter, the skating rink is always packed. Take a break at one of the patisseries or cafés as you explore this historic neighborhood, easy to reach on Montreal's metro. To pick up some authentic made-in-Montreal treasures, visit the Marché Bon Secours, a gorgeous arcade filled with various regional arts and crafts. If you visit in the cold of winter, you can shop in the miles-long underground mall, which runs under the modern section of the city and is accessible at several of the metro stops.

Foodie Heaven

Start your day with a hot-from-the-oven bagel from Fairmount, a local favorite for over 50 years. Next, head to the Jean Talon Market, a must-see for serious gourmands, and plan to spend at least a couple of hours here. The abundance of gorgeous, fresh produce and gourmet foodstuffs are amazing, and most booths have platters of free samples so you can try before you buy. Do an olive-oil tasting or stop by "the corn lady" for an ear of picked-that-morning corn on the cob slathered in butter. Oenophiles will enjoy a visit to Maison du Gouverneur, a former prison that has been converted into a private wine cellar and tasting rooms.

No matter what time of year you visit, you'll find true French "joie de vivre" since Montreal is always in a festive mood.

If you go:

http://www.hahaha.com

http://www.montrealjazzfest.com

http://montreal.hyatt.com

www.tourisme-montreal.org

www.basiliquenddm.org/en