Hank Kirkland of Shakespeare/Pflueger/Allstar says, "We make reels to withstand the rigors of the harshest fresh and saltwater environments. We can stand by a few days of hardcore fishing, maybe three to five, before the reel really should be broken down and given a few basic areas of TLC."
Reel maintenance should be a fun and integral part of your fishing trip. Captain Mitch Richmond says, "I fish from Matagorda to the lower Laguna Madre. I set aside an hour the night after a three-day trip and break down every reel and re-oil and clean every nook and cranny. The tinniest piece of salt can completely corrode ANY reel-even when they are advertised as non-corrosive."
For better reel maintenance, follow these ten-simple steps to a cleaner, distance casting machine.
Step 1
Completely disassemble reel per manufactures instructions. As you disassemble the reel, clean any excess grease, mud, sand, and grime from the moving parts. When you remove the reel handle pay special attention to grass or line that may have wound around the reel handle spindle.
Step 2
Place all parts in a bucket of warm soapy water for at least an hour. Captain Darrin Jones says, "I am a Marine. I like order and assembly line maintenance. I get a separate bowl filled with soapy water for each part type and put each spring with every other spring and each cover with each cover." Captain Ted Spring, however says, I throw'em all in the same bucket and hope I don't have any pieces left over when I finish my last reel." Regardless of your approach, warm soapy water.
Step 3
Remove all your parts and dry them carefully and completely. Place them on a white towel or background so you can easily see them.
Step 4
Start with the reel casing and lube each moving part with the manufactures recommended lubricant. This step is important. A number of reputable reel makers forfeit your warranty if you use a lubricant they do not approve-buyer beware. Hit the wind guide heavy with lube and drop a number of drops into the exposed reel gearing that you should be able to see through the opening left by the barrel brake.
Most important part of this step is to ensure you do not place you freshly greased and lubed reel casing on your wife's new dining room placemats. Oil stains and linen are a hard mix to separate. Dry all excess lube off the outer casing, this is important, rods and reels can get slippery and you may have a cast that takes rod, reel, and lure.
Step 5
Replace the barrel brake and spring. The WD-40 No-Mess pen is great to lube and doctor the threads on the fitting and protects the brake adjustment from stripping or freezing in the future.
Step 6
Reassemble the reel handle. Once again, use the WD-40 on all threaded parts for protection. Add a small amount of manufacturer recommended grease between the drag knob and the washers. Also, do not be afraid to douse the area in a deep lube bathe. This is one part of the reel that will receive the most abuse and will determine the success or failure of landing a big fish-so pay attention.
Step 7
Take the line spindle and wipe thoroughly with your already greasy rag. Add a few more drops of lubricant into the gear casing and insert the spindle.
Step 8
Clean the reel casing cover and add a healthy dose of lubricant to the spindle contact point and the clasp that locks the cover to the casing. Do not be stingy here, it is frustrating when the cover freezes on the reel and you cannot get to your prescribed maintenance.
Step 9
Wipe all exterior parts of you reel with a lubricated rag and then a dry clean rag. The reel should look like new at this point. Store your reel in a dry area without line.
Step 10
The night before your trip, reline with your favorite braid or mono and have fun. When you get home, repeat steps 1 through 10.
Published by Brandon Shuler
I have worn many hats in my professional career from an Olympic Triathlon Coach to an Investment banker. I'm currently a Ph.D Student and Graduate Part Time Instructor. View profile
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