Balboa Island

Spoiling for a good walk in Orange County, California? Get ready for a leg tingling 2.6 miles around the two islands called Balboa in Newport Harbor. Lots on these little gems, dredged and man-made just before WW I, originally sold for as little as $25 and now go for, oh, around 3 mil! Drive over the bridge from Jamboree Road and park free on the island or fork out 60 cents and glide across the harbor on the ferry from the Fun Zone that holds 3 vehicles plus assorted people, bikes and dogs. Either way, you're in for an urban walker's paradise.

By the time we get to the Island from our inland home, I have to hit the bathroom, so our walks usually start from the combination mens/ladies at the Ferry Landing. This area seems busy with dog walkers and strolling couples but even at the height of the summer rental season, it's not unbearably crowded. We hang a left from the restrooms and it's my belief that the next few blocks display the most interesting art on the island. There's a Statue of Liberty with a torch that lights the night, a gaggle of bronze children playing in a fountain set at the edge of a live bush, a little bronze mermaid cradling a fish and, lurking around the corner, a genuine dinosaur! Off in that direction, too, is a third island in this tiny archipelago but it's PRIVATE, which of course compels me to linger near the gate and wonder about the residents, one of which I'm fairly sure was the late Buddy Ebsen.

Now, as you continue around the walkway, don't get whiplash looking from the gorgeous homes on your right to the impressive or sometimes eccentric boats at the private docks to your left. Even some docks warrant a second glance--strings of lights, gingerbread details on gazebos and a WWII bomber weathervane with 4 active propellers. My favorite house is near the Ferry and you can't miss it. It's a lemon yellow Victorian with crisp white trim and matching table umbrella.

Eventually you'll come to Marine Avenue, the main thoroughfare of Balboa. Need a T-shirt, cinnamon bun or million plus property, stop here. Marine runs several blocks and is lined on each side with shops both lovely and kitschy, restaurants, real estate offices and a grocery at the far end with the friendliest clerks around. I would take more time to describe this charming street but, hey, we're here for the walk!

When you come to Marine, you can't cross the street at that point. You need to walk down half a block, cross at the crosswalk and trek the half block back to continue your walk. And believe me you don't want to jay walk. You're crossing the bridge from the mainland and sometimes folks zoom merrily across in their haste for the slow island life. Better safe than a hood ornament! Now you're on the walkway leading to the canal between the two bigger islands, where folks put out fresh water for the ducks that hang out there. Think about it--there's plenty of salty sea water, but really nothing for the ducks to drink. We thought that was a pretty cool thing for people to do but we're suckers for the wildlife…

There's a bridge spanning the canal and we stroll across and head onto the other, smaller island. This side tends to be quieter than the larger island, maybe because it's only homes, no commerce at all. Again, lovely homes, both old and new. In fact, there's quite a bit of building going on lately. One home drew a lot of attention recently because the framework is entirely steel, an innovation that's "building" a following in residential architecture. Walking by a home once on the far side of this smaller island, a little child had stopped in front of the greenery-covered stone house and told his mother he was waiting for the seven dwarves to come out. Truly, you will find just about any type of architecture you can think of here.

As you come back to the Harbor side of the islands, listen for the Sea Lions. They play out in the harbor, making noise and generally entertaining anyone paying attention. Being suckers for wildlife, we love to pat the dogs being walked, coo silly nothings at the cats sunning themselves all over the island and shade our eyes to see the pterodactyls. Ok, they're actually pelicans but they look prehistoric!

We normally walk the perimeter of the island and sometimes wander down Marine when we're in the mood. But this leaves all the narrow streets that run from one side of the island to the other. We save those streets (and our energy) for the High Seasons--Halloween and Christmas--when you can see some of the coolest exhibits of Holiday Spirit in So Cal. Ghosts floating around chimneys, 8 foot snowmen perched on rooftops and enough strings of lights to reach to the full moon and back. Next Christmas I'm planning to go early on a December afternoon, stake my piece of the harbor front and finally get to see the Annual Boat Parade.

So if you're in the Newport Beach area, take a break in this quietly unique little haven. I think the best walking seasons are spring and fall, bundled into a nice sweater and nodding hello to the accommodating locals. Balboa's redwood benches, placed strategically at the end of streets and bearing plaques dedicated to loved ones, invite you to sit and contemplate; life, seagulls, whether the seven dwarves really do live in that house…

Here are some resources to plan your trip:

www.Balboa-island.net
www.Balboa-island.com
www.Balboaislandferry.com