Bangkok's Floating Market

Haggling with vendors while bobbing around in a small boat isn't something I do everyday, but it can be fun. That's how you do things at the exotic Floating Market near Bangkok, Thailand.

I'd heard about the Floating Market, or Damnoen Saduak, on a previous trip to Bangkok. But it was about 80 miles outside the city. I didn't have time to visit the watery shopping area on my earlier trip.

This time, I signed up for a tour offered by my hotel at a price of 800 baht (about 25 dollars). I was one of a dozen tourists who arrived at the market around 9:00 a.m.

My initial reaction was disappointment at seeing only three or four vendors who offered a small variety of cheap souvenirs. Was this all?

No. These vendors were locals trying to take advantage of their location. It wasn't the real Floating Market, but merely a departure point for reaching the market via a 15-minute ride in a canal boat.

It took two boats to transport our 12 travelers, even though the boats are designed to seat about ten people each. The problem: We had several big men (including myself), and the small boats were not built to accommodate many folks of my size.

I was the only big person in the first boat, so I had to sit in the middle for balance. The seats were only three inches off the floor of the boat, while the boat itself was less than a foot deep.

Once we started moving, I had to occasionally shift my weight when the boat leaned too far to one side. After a trip in which we threatened to capsize several times, we finally made a series of turns and got off at the market.

Most of the market doesn't float, instead relying on permanent structures along the canal where vendors can bring and display their wares. But some still sell from their boats. Others are on the canal banks, so that the only way to make a purchase is to reach them by boat.

Most of the wares were souvenirs, clothing, and figurines. Bargaining was expected. Just asking the price of an item and turning to walk away was enough to get a lower offer. I purchased a purse, priced at 400 baht, for 150 (after a 250 middle offer).

Electronic calculators were the major medium of negotiation. Vendors would tap in the price on a calculator. If you didn't buy, they'd clear the calculator and offer to let you enter a number. A couple of calculator exchanges and a purchase was likely.

I spotted a blouse that I thought my wife would like, priced at 700 baht. I turned to walk away and a calculator with "500" on it was thrust in my face. When I continued on, the vendor entered another number - "400" - caught up with me and thrust it in front of me again.

A similar process led to the purchase of a souvenir plate (priced a 400 baht, purchases for 250) and a cat figurine (300 baht initial price, purchased at 150).

One intriguing aspect of the day was the lackadaisical attitude that the vendors had about their pets. They just let them lie around the stalls, whether they were dogs (several) or boa constrictors (three).

Visitors who tired of shopping can find a few other things to do. Some opted for the Cobra show, a live demonstration of a snake handler working with the deadly reptiles.

Another nearby attraction was the Elephant Village, which offered elephant rides at a cost of 50 baht (about $1.50). I felt sorry for the elephants and didn't ride, but about half in the group did.

I was able to watch how the professionals guided the beast. A rope was looped around the elephant's tail and held in the hands of the driver. Pulling on the rope told the elephant to move forward.

Directions were handled with the driver's feet to the elephant's ears. Rubbing the elephant's left ear caused him to turn right, and vice versa. Clamping both legs into the elephant's side was the signal to stop and/or be still.

The final stop of the day was the Royal Thai Handicraft Center, where wood carving was the local pride. The carvers were amazing. Their handiwork included entire dining tables, complete with chairs, elaborately carved from teak.

Artisans could be seen working on any number of detailed items in a variety of sizes. I purchased one small art piece that was listed at 280. When I offered 200, the lady said she had to have 250.

The piece included intricate handwork and the price seemed reasonable, so I gave her two 100-baht bills and searched in my money for the other 50. While I searched, she bagged the item and gave it to me for 200.

Maybe I'm a better negotiator than I ever realized. Perhaps visiting the Floating Market had sharpened my skills.