The Subwall
Remodeling your basement with drywall is a great way to get crisp and finished walls with ease. But first, insulation and moisture control is the needed. Without these two important aspects of basement remodeling, your drywall will be far from dry and it won't be long before it ruined from mold and moisture. Take a look at the US Department of Energies Website for more information on insulation and moisture control techniques.
The most common subwall on a basement block wall is the use of furring strips attached to rigid foam insulation. These are easily attached to standard concrete block walls with hard cut nails. The ¾" strips create airspace between the insulation and drywall for electric work and adds to the overall R-value.
2x4 walls are used when the block wall behind the subwall is not uniform enough to attach furring strips. They are also used when plumbing, air conditioning or other ventilation/mechanics can't fit behind the smaller strips. These thicker walls can also be put up for batt insulation if rigid foam isn't your cup of tea.
Plastic moisture barriers are a big no-no when hanging basement drywall because condensation gets trapped behind the plastic and runs down the block wall, behind the drywall causing mold and mildew under certain conditions. Opt out for a paint on moisture barrier or exterior moisture barrier.
Considerations
Moisture in the basement is one of the biggest killers for drywall. Preventing future moisture problems are only the beginning when it comes to hanging drywall in the basement. Furring strips and drywall should be set off of the floor a minimum of ¼" to prevent wicking from moisture that falls to the basement floor. 2x4 walls will need a protective sill plate moisture barrier like metal flashing to prevent moisture from ever wicking up into the drywall.
Hanging drywall on the ceiling is another question that is often posed in basement remodeling. While it is possible, I would not suggest it. More often than not, the basement ceiling is full of mechanical chases that will eventually need to be accessed in someway in the future. A drop ceiling is recommended instead. This will also allow the home to expand and contract freely, whereas drywall will not move and eventually crack as the seasons change.
Published by Eric Brennan - Featured Contributor in Lifestyle
Since 2005 Eric has written 2000+ articles and counting on everything home improvement, green and travel. He has written for such companies as DIY network, Huffington Post, DeWalt, AT&T, Tide, Small Home Des... View profile
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