Bed Bugs: How to Eliminate and Control Mild Infestations

Bed bug infestations have become increasingly common. As people move in and out of the country, they unknowingly transport the parasitic plasma pirates to and fro. Exterminators report bed bug infestations in residential homes are nearly as common as termite or cockroach invasions. Many exterminators claim the best and most effective way to eliminate and control bed bug problems is to use a professional strength insecticide after discarding of relatively expensive possessions.

However, there are several ways to completely eliminate bed bugs and control the possibility of re-infestation with common, store-bought products, diligence and lifestyle modifications. If the risk of allergic reactions exists among household members, natural (non-poisonous) methods can also be used to stop those pesky pests in their tracks!

The bed bug, Cimex lectularius, is a blood-sucking insect that prefers to feed on humans while we sleep. Although its' painless bite often goes undetected, the welt it leaves behind can cause severe itching. Bed bugs are not known to transmit communicable diseases, however, in humans allergic to bed bug bites, nervous disorders and/or something akin to a common cold may occur. In a single night, with a mild infestation, a person could wake with several small, round welts on the fatty areas of the feet, ankles, arms, chest, and thighs. If you notice itching in more than one of these areas of your body, you probably don't have a single, rogue bed bug. You should immediately begin to seek out their hiding places to avoid a major infestation. Major infestations can occur quite fast, as the female bed bug can lay up to 200 eggs in less than a year.

It's important to begin by noting that sanitary problems within ones' own household is not the primary reason for bed bug infestation. It is common for bed bugs to invade a home when birds or mammals nest on or near a house. Typically, the bed bug enters through an opened window. Furthermore, overcrowded or decrepit housing (often seen in low-income neighborhoods), can be a haven for bed bug nuisance. Hotel-like apartment dwellings (with carpeted hallways and stairs) regularly experience bed bug problems amongst tenants. This may not be because there are several tenants with individual sanitary problems. Rather, the bed bug is free to travel undetected from one apartment unit to the other. Bed bugs can also be picked up in theaters, on trains and buses and in the luggage and/or furniture of travelers.

To begin ridding yourself of the determined little vampires, you'll need supplies. A canister vacuum with a hose attachment is very helpful. You will also need very large clear bags for delicate bedding, decorative pillows, throw rugs, area rugs, etc. Mattress bags are a must as well as the purchase of two rolls of strong poly tape. The bags and tape can be found reasonably priced at www.uhaul.com or your local moving supply store. Add to your arsenal two rubber tub mats, a bright flashlight, and some very hot water.

Carefully strip your bed of the comforter/bedspread and the flat sheet. Take note of the condition of the fitted sheet in full light. Are there tiny spots that resemble blood? Make a mental note and remove the flat sheet. If your bedroom is dimly lit, get a flashlight and begin to gently and carefully run your finger along the seams of the mattress. Once you've completed the circumference of the mattress, remove it from the top of the foundation and check the seams of the foundation. Look for signs of molts - white, brown, or clear shed skin - or more dark specks. The reddish-brown dots are fecal spots. These, along with the molted skins, are a clear sign the bed bugs have fed more than once and are growing through the nymphal stages.

You may or may not find any insects up to this point. If you do, pick them up and smash them between your fingers or vacuum them into the canister. Try not to smear the bed bug on the fabric of your bed as there is a very distinct, sickeningly sweet odor to its contents.

Once you've checked the top of the foundation or box spring, stand it up on one end and check the bottom. If there are any openings or holes on the bottom of your box spring, it's very like the bed bugs harbor in the darkest corners of the wood. Don't panic and do not attempt to kill all of them at once. They will scatter and crawl away into deeper, darker corners of your sleeping area, which will increase your extermination efforts.

Effective treatment for mild bed bug infestations can be done in one of two ways: chemically or naturally. Hot Shot ®™ Fogger insecticide is very effective with mattress bags. Delta Dust insecticide, sold online at www.domyownpestcontrol.com is a reasonably priced dusting agent for treating cracks, carpeting, rugs, and crevices, as well as the perimeter of the sleeping areas.

Carefully position the box spring to vacuum along the crevices of its innards. Be thorough - you are not only attempting to pick up the adult bugs and any nymphs, but eggs, as well. Once you've cleaned the box spring, go back to the mattress and vacuum along the seams and folds. Place the bedcover and any bedding accessories in comforter bags and seal completely with poly tape. Cover the mattress and the box spring with the clear, plastic mattress bags. If possible, pour hot water into the vacuum canister to drown the bedbug and kill the eggs. Empty the vacuum canister and rinse attachment with hot water. Otherwise, empty the canister into a plastic bag, seal, and discard.

After the mattress and box spring are covered and ready to be sealed, simply pop the top and drop the canister into the bag. Quickly tape the bag and repeat the steps with the box springs. If the fogger action is stifled while inside the bag, reposition the mattress or box spring. DO NOT UNSEAL OR OPEN THE BAG. Repeat these steps with the contents of the comforter bags before sealing. A minimum of 12 hours should be allotted to treat the box spring and mattress. Place both the mattress and the box spring in front of the window in a very warm room or in front of an open window in a very cold room.

Place any bedroom furniture or toys outdoors in direct, full sunlight if temperatures exceed 90 degrees Fahrenheit or fall below 32 degrees Fahrenheit. These temperatures are sufficient to kill eggs and premature nymphs. Adult bed bugs will seek harborage in darker, favorably temperate havens, or die. Any clothes should be washed in hot water and dried with high heat. Seal delicate clothing in plastic bags and place them in the freezer for at least six hours.

Once the mattress and box spring are treated, clean the sleeping area thoroughly. Vacuum along the perimeter of the sleeping area from along the edges of the carpet to the top of the base trim, the carpeting itself, and the bed frame joints and seams. The tiny, (less than 1/4 of an inch) flat, oval bed bug is designed to hide in plain sight, so cleaning the frame is of vital importance. Vacuum under and behind baseboards or air registers. Any loose wallpaper, light switch and outlet plates and any appliances (television, clock, etc.) near the bed should be cleaned. This will take a considerable amount of time, but your first sound night of sleep and peace of mind is worth the effort. Keep in mind as you labor along that you are attempting to avoid a much more serious and costly problem a few short months down the line!

Position the covered box spring back onto the frame and place rubber mats along the head and foot of the box spring. Carefully maneuver the mattress to fit over the box spring without sliding. Dress the bed (without the dust ruffle/bed skirt or decorative accessories) with clean linen and leave the mattress covered for about ten days. After you remove the plastic cover, wipe the mattress down with a damp cloth and warm, soapy water. Let the mattress dry in an upright position. Apply clean bedding to the mattress and vacuum the carcasses from the sleeping area.

The box spring usually contains better harborage for the bed bug. Therefore, it should stay covered for an additional ten days to two weeks. You will see the carcasses through the clear plastic and it's very possible for the direct application of the insecticide to have been ineffective in killing all nymphs and eggs. When you check the box spring, shine the beam of the flashlight directly onto the bugs. If they are still alive, they will attempt to move out of the light. Another fogger can be dropped into the cover of the up-righted box spring, or the dust can be applied with a puffer applicator.

There are several natural, non-poisonous solutions available online and at your local retailer for the elimination and control of mild bed bug infestations. The steps above should be taken to prepare the sleeping areas for treatment before application of the non-toxic products.

CM PowderGard® Organic Desiccant Dust Insecticide is sold online at http://eco-safety.com For less than $25.00, several sleeping and living areas can be treated without the hazardous affects of toxic insecticides. The organic powder can be applied wet or dry, and offers an odorless, long term affect on adult bed bugs, nymphs, and eggs.

If you're interested in growing your own pyrethrum for indoor use as an insecticide, you can find seeds at www.heirloomseeds.com, or at your local gardening store. Chrysanthemum coccineum, flower in late June or July, and the heads can be ground into a non-toxic insecticide powder. The drying Chrysanthemum can be harvested and hung upside down in a dry area until the blooms are completely dry. Grind the petals into a fine powder and dilute with enough water to create a spray application.

The use of "home-grown insecticide" requires more effort through patience than labor. Although the insecticide will paralyze and kill the bed bugs when applied directly, once the spray dries, there are no residual effects. The lack of long term, residual effects offers eggs an opportunity to hatch. Neglecting to kill very young nymphs may present the little critters with an opportunity to feast on you in later days! However, for the extremely sensitive, it is the safest and least costly method for eliminating and controlling mild bed bug infestations.

Bed bugs can live several months without feeding, so be sure to follow up with your method of elimination by dusting or spraying after laundering clothes and cleaning your home thoroughly. Two to three follow-up applications every 90 days should eliminate the toughest mild bed bug infestation. Whichever method best suits the needs of your household, diligence and commitment to cleanliness is the key to sleeping tight and not letting the bed bugs bite!