Benny's Bakery: Doughnuts, Pretzels and Paczki

Every small town has its own version of the quintessential bake shop. A modest, yet charming interior. An loyal crew of locals to fill the seats. And a glass case stocked with homemade goodness. Benny's Bakery is Saline, Michigan's answer to that call.

Located right on West Michigan Avenue, it's the anchor of a downtown that's riding a recession-induced wave of empty store fronts and malaise. But if there's one thing that the fine folks of Michigan appreciate, it's a good doughnut. And if there's one thing that can bring a smile to someone's face, it's a good doughnut.

Benny's is known for its pretzels, long johns, fritters, and cakes, but what truly separates this little bakery from its peers is one ultra-decadent treat known to anyone living in or near a Polish enclave: paczki. Pronounced "poonch-key," these doughnuts are a staple of Fat Tuesday gluttony in cities like Detroit and Chicago, which hold strong Polish immigrant roots. Paczki typically are filled with fruit, custard, or cream, and may resemble an average jelly-filled doughnut upon first glance. Entenmann's and Krispy Kreme these are not! I urge you to look more closely, as paczki pack a greater punch than your typical doughnut - both in flavor and calories.

The doughnut itself is moist and golden, courtesy of egg yolks and a languorous bath in the fryer. Some varieties are glazed or coated in chocolate; the cream-filled version - the true crème de la crème at Benny's - is dusted in powdered sugar. Given the perfection of the interior cream, the outer shell needs no embellishment. The cream is neither gelatinous nor sludgy, artificial nor stale. It is light yet substantial, sweet, perfect.

I have tasted the supermarket products, the custard and fruit-filled versions. Benny's cream-filled is the clear winner. While Benny's offers a well-rounded bakery menu, if you visit the quaint café just once, do so on Fat Tuesday, when paczki fill every ounce of display space. It's visual treat all on its own, watching locals wait to purchase their dozen.

It would be irresponsible to conclude a praise of doughnuts without a little bit of fine print. Be warned: a simple Google search reveals that these little gems can damage a well-intentioned diet in a matter of bites. Paczki are more decadent than your typical glazed doughnuts. I will spare you the scary numbers and only suggest that it is probably best that - like egg nog - we only consume paczki once a year.