Best Hairspray that Holds Curls

Hairspray! Next to a good shampoo and conditioner, the perfect hairspray is a must have for nearly everyone interested in holding and defining curly styles. For those battling humidity and flat hair, or those who simply wish to tame their curly hair with ultimate control, a dependable hairspray is a must. Curly hair can really fall flat or frizz when the weather refuses to cooperate. With a variety of companies offering special hairspray formulas for frizz-busting, silkening, heat protection and curl definition all-in-one, it can be hard to choose a basic spray for keeping curls looking their best. Read on for some general tips for choosing the right hairspray for holding curls.

What is the best hairspray for holding curls for your hair type? It depends a lot on whether you are trying to manage your natural curl pattern or trying to maintain a temporary curly set. Additionally, your personal activity level, your susceptibility to frizz and the typical weather and climate conditions you will face will all determine the type of hairspray formula you will need to hold your curls.

What's Needed in a Good Hairspray for Holding Curls?

Polymers/Copolymers:
All hairsprays contain ingredients called polymers and copolymers, which harden individual hairs and temporarily bond them together once the formula dries. Polymers are wonders of modern chemistry with long, nearly impossible to pronounce names.These polymers are able to create temporary, transparent bonding points on the hair fiber and have a strong affinity for hair protein. The degree of hardening that is experienced depends on the concentration and type of polymers in the hairspray formula and whether or not they are water-soluble.

Types of Hairsprays and Holds

Light/Flexible-Hold Hairsprays for Curly Styles:
These hairsprays allow curly hair to move naturally with body and motion. These sprays are good for those with natural curls who simply wish to define them while keeping the hair "combable" and soft. Unfortunately, flexible-hold formulas may not give those who are setting their curls the desired hold to keep curls fresh throughout the course of a day. These formulas tend to use water-soluble polymers that can be rinsed cleanly from the hair. They are also especially receptive to humidity, which can be disastrous for curls and lead to frizz by the end of the day. I typically turn to flexible-hold sprays for light control of my straightened or flat-ironed styles.

Medium/Extra-Strength Hairsprays for Curly Styles:
In medium-hold formulas, anionic and polyacrylic polymers provide additional hardening power. Stronger, shinier films are trademarks of these hairspray formulas. Hairsprays with this level of hold are intended to allow some free movement of the strands but still help the style maintain a basic shape. Medium-hold sprays provide a greater level of control for moments of high activity or humid and windy weather conditions. This type of hairspray formula is good for holding not only natural curls, but also curls that have been set. Large, full curls do well with this type of hairspray formula, and I regularly use medium-hold hairsprays to support my roller sets. These sprays offer great hold for those muggy days without freezing your hair into an untouchable crisp.

Maximum-Strength/Freeze-Type Hairsprays for Curly Styles:
The names speak for themselves! These levels of hold are super hard and are typically quick-drying hairspray formulas that are intended to glue the hair into place for long periods of time. These hairspray formulas are not touchable-hold formulas and are intended to create a hard, crisp, dramatic effect. Spiral and "Shirley Temple" curls are prime examples of sets that benefit from super-hold hairspray formulas. My spiral sets hold for days, even in extreme humidity, after adding a good coating of super-hold hairspray to the curls. Maximum-hold formulas tend to contain high amounts of solvents like SD 40 alcohol and isopropyl alcohol, which evaporate quickly once the formula is sprayed onto the hair. If used regularly, these quickly evaporating ingredients in fast-drying, super hard hairspray formulas can make curly hair extremely dry.

Sources:
Ben Selinger, Chemistry in the Marketplace, 4th ed. (Harcourt Brace, 1994).
Claude Bouillion & John Wilkinson, The Science of Hair Care, 2nd ed. (Taylor & Francis,1995).