Bhaktapur: Nepal's Open Museum

The phrase "Durbar Square" pops up a lot in Nepal. After all, there is one at the center of the capital of Kathmandu, and one across the river in the neighboring city of Patan. "Durbar Square" is the plaza that sits next to a royal palace, and there are three such places in the Kathmandu Valley: the two already mentioned, plus the greatest of them all at quiet Bhaktapur.

Modern Nepal was shaped by the Gorkha Kingdom (source of the famed Gurkha soldiers), but Bhaktapur comes from something older. It's people are Newaris, not Gorkhas, and its foundation rests with the medieval Malla Kingdom. Although it was badly damaged in a 1934 earthquake, much of the architectural wonder of the place as been restored. Visitors should expect to pay a modest entry fee to enter the old town, which goes to maintenance and restoration works.

One of the major examples of this grandeur is the Royal Palace, which is now the National Art Gallery. This includes the royal bathing pond, the Taleju Temple Complex, and the iconic Golden Gate. The Nayataponla Temple is a five storied pagoda that stands as the tallest temple in Nepal. Between and around these two imposing structures are countless shrines and temples, plus other common buildings with doors and windows that are framed with ornate Newari woodwork. A stroll through town will likely find Newaris and Gorkhalis outside in small squares, drying chilis or corn kernels in the sun.

Bhaktapur is also well-known for its local pottery crafts. There is an entire square devoted to sun-baked pottery, and while it is an obvious tourist magnet, it has not yet become an ugly tourist trap. The pottery industry is still quite authentic, and the prices are still quite reasonable.

When in need of a quick treat, visitors can partake of juju-dhau. This is a Newari sweet of yogurt with locally-made honey, and it makes for a wonderful late afternoon snack.

The one consideration about making a visit to Bhaktapur is whether or not to stay there. Those interested in perhaps making a sketch or painting of Nepali-style squares, temples, palaces, or street scenes would do well to set up shop in Bhaktapur as quickly as possible. Everyone else can see what needs seeing and move on in a single day, so most visitors would do well to limit Bhaktapur to a single day trip, and then return to either Kathmandu or Nagarkot.

Sources: Personal experience