Bleeding You Hydraulic Clutch System: How to Do it with Style
I recently had to replace the master cylinder of my hydraulic clutch system. This was easily done as it comprised only one fluid line..and two bolts. Once the new master cylinder was mounted however, I found that air had gotten into the line..and adamantly refused to leave.
I undertook all of the common methods of removing this air but to no avail. I tried bleeding the system from the slave cylinder. I tried opening and closing the bleeder valve at the slave cylinder while someone pumped the clutch pedal for me. I tried using a vacuum pump to pull fluid and air out of the system. Each and every effort failed.
Air in a hydraulic line is a for certain way to insure that the hydraulic function will NOT occur. Air is compressible. A fluid is not. So when you place you foot on a brake pedal, or a clutch pedal and apply pressure, the non-compressing nature of that fluid, allows that fluid to behave as if there was an actual physical link in action. As an example..if there was a steel bar attached to your brake pedal..that would activate the brakes when you stepped on the brake pedal...that bar would be an actual, physical, material link..from pedal to brake shoe. A hydraulic line is very similar. When you step on the pedal..there is a force applied to the brakes..by the non compressing nature of the fluid..within that line...the force applied on that pedal, is instantly applied at the other end of that line...unless..there is air trapped within that line. The air will compress..stealing energy..and will not transmit the force applied.
I did a great deal of searching online trying to find a method of removing this air from my hydraulic clutch system and discovered some of what was causing the problem. The Bore of the piston inside the master cylinder is small...and the stroke or forward movement of that piston..is rather short. There just wasn't enough movement of fluid going on to force the air out of the system in a reasonable amount of time. But my search did bare fruit finally..I found a wonderful article on refilling a hydraulic clutch system..that eliminates air, takes only a very few minutes and is not at all expensive.
What you need is one of those oil cans that has a spout and a trigger that will squirt the oil for you. This trigger...should be of the type that requires your index and middle fingers to operate as opposed to a can that has a thumb trigger. You will also need a length of clear plastic tubing that will fit snugly over the end of the oil can's spout..and will also fit snugly over the end of the disconnected fluid line at the slave cylinder.
In practice..it's very easy. Remove the fluid line from the slave cylinder and allow the system to bleed out entirely. While that is going on, fill your oil can with fresh clean brake fluid. Attach the tubing to the spout..and once the system has bled out..attach the other end of the tubing to the fluid line. Start pumping...just regular timed pumps are needed. Not too fast. This fluid, coming in from the bottom..fills the system from the bottom..UP..and pushes any air right out through the master cylinder. Take a peek at the master cylinder every now and again. When you see it beginning to fill with fluid...go ahead and fill it completely with brake fluid. Slip under the vehicle, re-connect the fluid line, pop open the bleeder on the slave cylinder..watch for fluid to come out...tighten the bleeder close again..and you are finished.
Published by Dean Allen
Sex-yes. Age-52. Location-Somewhere View profile
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12 Comments
Post a CommentIn the Morris Marina, After connecting everthing in ita place,I attach a plastic pipe on to the opened bleeder of the slave cylinder. The length of the pipe is higher than the master cylinder. Using a small funnel on the free end, I slowly pour down the hydeaulic fluid, till the level of the fluid in the master cylinder is seen rising. When it reaches the right level just close the bleeder valve. In this manner no reconnection is required.
ihave a 1999 work truck with a clutch and its a hydraulic how do i bleed the line
Fix the line to the slave cylinder and open the bleeder on the slave cylinder. 6) Continue to collect the dripping fluid from the slave cylinder bleeder for few minutes to get a solid flow of the fluid. 7) Close the bleeder on the slave cylinder and your clutch problem is gone.
My Chrysler Neon 2000 model has got the plastic push-in type hydraulic fluid line for the clutch. I have found that the gravity-feed method of bleeding clutch works best with this application and it takes about 20 minutes. You need two people to bleed the clutch using this method. 1) Remove the cap from the hydraulic reservoir, remove the rubber cup. 2) remove the line from the slave cylinder, the fluid will start dripping from the slave cylinder side of the line. 3) While you are collecting the dripping fluid from underneath the car, get your helper to fill-up the reservoir with fresh fluid. 4) The dripping fluid indicates there is air trapped in the line. After few refills of the reservoir, you will notice the fluid is no longer dripping but flowing in a solid pattern. The air has been removed from the line.5)Fix the line to the slave cylinder and open the bleeder on the slave cylinder. 6) Continue to collect the dripping fluid from the slave cylinder bleeder for few minutes to get a
I have found the EZE BLEEDER works great bleeding clutch and brake lines using the reverse injection at the bleeder valve method.
www.ezebleeder.net
Tried many times to bleed the system on my 95 f-150 the way the book said. Each time it just wouldn't remove all the air. Tried your method, and got it on the first try. What a life saver. Many thanks.
My slave cylinder did the same thing. But after draining the system and refilling using the squirt can method I just reattached the line and then waited for the bleeder to drip and snugged it down. The drip showed fluid was in the cylinder, and the filling method had expelled the air from the line. So it was fine from that point. Often times, the master cylinder does not have the bore and range of travel to force enough fluid through the line to dump the air trapped inside. The squirt can method is the only way I have been able to get the job done.
I am having problems with a 1955 Chevy Pro-Touring not shifting. Everything has been done to this car. The bleeder valve drips instead of the flud Gushing out. Dot 5 Brake fluid.
can any boy try to help me to get material on hyraulic clutches?
Assuming the line going to the slave cylinder is metal and threaded, this would be a great atricle. What if the line is the plastic push-in type that you would find on the concentric slave cylinders of an F150? what modifications would there to be made?