Block Island: Naturally Rhode Island's Best Kept Secret

Lori Borys
Approximately twelve miles off the coast of Rhode Island lay a small pork chop shaped gem surrounded by the Atlantic. The town of New Shoreham Block Island is the smallest town in the smallest state of the union but its impact is immeasurable. At seven miles long and three miles wide the dimensions of the island are deceptive. In that small space you have 17 miles of beaches, 365 fresh water ponds, over 2,000 miles of stonewalls, 32 miles of trails, and two lighthouses.

The lighthouses guard either end of the Island and are major tourist attractions. The Southeast Light may be familiar to some as it was moved away from the edge of the bluffs in recent years. The process has been broadcast on a number of television programs. A massive red brick structure with multiple peaks and black-capped light tower looms as you round the bend on Pilot Hill Road. The simple grounds give way to spectacular views and the location provides stunning sunrise photo opportunities. Tucked between sand dunes at the opposite end of the island is the smaller North Light. Set off the main road a leisurely beachside walk will have you standing on the brick courtyard in less than thirty minutes. The bricks are inscribed with the names of contributors who helped make the restoration of the light possible. A sliver of land, known locally as Sandy Point, protrudes into the ocean beyond the structure where waves encircling the island crash into each other in an effort to reclaim it.

Beaches, beaches, and more beaches. Every few hundred feet of coastline has it's own name, Black Rock Beach, Crescent Beach, Mansion Beach. While all of the beaches are rated for swimming there are some that are obviously more desirable for such an activity. The most well known for swimming and lying on the sand is Crescent Beach. This is within walking distance of Old Harbor and has a section that is child friendly as well as one with a lifeguard on duty. If you want a secluded site with waves crashing and stones roiling like thunder Black Rock is phenomenal but will take some effort to get to. There is some talk of it being a clothing optional beach but I have yet to see anything but rocks and water. If you like the idea of lying on the sand and playing in the surf for a while but consider picking your way along the rocks an essential part of the experience Mansion Beach, the last section of the crescent beach, is where you want to be. This is the transition area of the crescent beach from sandy to rocky as it wraps around Clay Head. The rocky portion, known as Pots and Kettles, gets its name from the mixture of sand and gravel formations left on the beach during the erosion of the cliffs.

If the beach isn't for you there are Rodman Hollow and the greenway trails waiting for exploration. The Nature Conservancy owns approximately 30% of the island and they make every effort to make it accessible and enjoyable for the public at large. My choice for most amazing spot happens to be at the top of Clay Head where a fresh water estuary lies hidden among the trees. You can literally walk to the edge of the island here standing at the brink of clay head with the waves crashing at the foot of the cliffs below you. The swallows will alight from their nests on the cliff and flit around you as the sea breeze takes your breath away. The Block is also a flyway and a haven for bird watchers in the fall. The local Audubon Society promotes getaways at key sighting times.

For the more adventurous vacationer there are some added attractions to being on the island. The sunset horse back ride to Dory Cove is popular but limited in number so be sure to make reservations. There are also several other choices of trails to ride during the day. Para sailing and off shore fishing excursions are also available at the harbors. Bicycles and mopeds can be rented on arrival. A word to the wise, the island is a bit uneven and some places are downright steep so choose your transportation accordingly. There are taxis and a few rental cars available as well.

Dinning is exceptional on the island with everything from bagels for breakfast at the old post office to elegant plating of the finest ingredients at the Hotel Manisses or Spring House. There are shore dinners and locally infamous amounts of lobster to be had at Ballard's and cocktails with live music at Club Soda by the airport. Our pick for fantastic food at reasonable prices is the Atlantic Inn Dinning Room. Muscles in wine as an appetizer and overstuffed lobster as an entrée on the deck has become tradition.

Obviously summer months are busier with a heavy load of day-trippers and weekend tourists. Many businesses close or run limited hours in the off-season but don't let this discourage you from booking your trip. For a truly relaxing vacation the peace and quiet of Block Island is unrivaled. By ferry or plane, on foot, bicycle, and moped or in your car, Block Island is worth a look. Because of seasonal scheduling I am including the web addresses for hotels, tourist information, and ferries.

Published by Lori Borys

Married, mother of two boys with a BA in English Literature.   View profile

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