Buffalo National River in Arkansas: History, Animals, Plants and Surplus of Activities in the Area

The Buffalo National River in Arkansas has a long and rich history. Located in the North Central part of the state, it stretches 135 miles from West to East before joining the White River.

Legal History

In the 1930's, if Senator Trimble had had his way, the river would have been dammed. This would have created a lake and covered up some of the most beautiful bluffs in the state.

It also would have hidden ancient Indian artifacts, rare plants and trees that are up to thousands of years old.

Because of a man with the last name Compton, the Buffalo River did not get dammed. It took years of fighting in D.C., but the Ozark Society was successful in stopping the building of a dam. By the early 1970's, the Buffalo River became the Buffalo National River - the first national river in the United States.

Cultural History

Osage Indians are the first recorded humans to have lived in the area. They used many of the area caves and stone overhangs as their shelter. They hunted and grew their crops of corn near what is now known as Rush.

French explorers are known to have been among the first Europeans to visit the Buffalo.

Early settlers found life hard in the area, but were attracted to it because of its natural beauty. They became known as the mountain people.

When the Civil War broke out, many of these people tried to stay out of it, but not all were able to. Next door to the Boxley Baptist Church is a graveyard for those Civil War Soldiers that you can still visit today.

About the time World War I started, zinc ore was discovered in Rush. This turned Rush into a Boom Town. Zinc was needed to make the brass cartridges for the ammunition being used in the war, so the demand was huge.

Rush is now a Ghost Town, with some of its old structures still standing. The oldest one is believed to have been built in 1886, and can still be visited today along with the Old General Store and some other surviving structures.

Geology

The Buffalo National River is older than recorded history and is a treasure to be proud of. Over thousands of years, the river has carved the bluffs out of sandstone and limestone, creating a beauty that is difficult to match.

Woodland Buffalo, Saber Tooth Tigers and Eastern Elk are just a few of the mammals that once roamed the area. Over time, forty mammals have been discovered to have lived in the area. Twenty of those mammals discovered are now extinct and were also new to scientific research.

Elk in the Ozarks

By the 1840's, the Eastern Elk had become extinct. But in the 1980's, Rocky Mountain Elk were introduced to the area. Today, there are about 500 Elk roaming in the Buffalo National River area. The Elk are the largest mammals in the state of Arkansas, with some bulls weighing 900 pounds.

Hunting of the Elk is allowed, but is restricted to only those that win the "lottery". The only way that you are allowed to hunt is by escort of a Game and Fish officer. So, it's not at all like hunting for White Tail Deer. You cannot just buy a hunting license and go out and hunt. In order to protect the population, they must be this restrictive.

A good time to go see the Rocky Mountain Elk in Arkansas is the fall when they are in rut. Many tourists just park on the side of the road and get to see full herds of them.

Plants and Trees of the Buffalo

At the end of the Buffalo, right before it empties into the White River; there are 40,000 acres of preserved land. On this land you will find the Turkey Mountain Savannah.

This area is home to over one thousand rare plants. Some of these ancient plants are in danger of extinction. Botanists are working hard to save them.

Some of the Cedar trees in the Buffalo are eight to nine hundred years old. Fortunately, during the logging boom, these trees were spared because loggers couldn't get to them to cut them down.

Activities in the Buffalo

When you think of a river, canoeing and rafting first come to mind. The Buffalo National River is no different. People can canoe, kayak, raft, float in a tube or ride in a John boat on it. The small boats are fine as long as it doesn't have more than a ten horsepower motor on it. But, most people prefer to experience the Buffalo by paddling a canoe or a raft.

Fishing and swimming go hand in hand with the river as well. One thing you do want to check before getting onto or into the river are the levels and conditions. This can be done at local ranger stations, posts at entry points to the river, or online with the USGS hydrological web page.

The river is known to rise suddenly because of down pours, so even once you are out on the river, you want to be constantly aware of what the weather is causing the river to do.

On the other hand, the river may be extremely low, especially during summer months. When this happens, you may find yourself carrying your canoe and all of your gear over the rocks and gravel bars.

Hiking trails are all throughout the Buffalo National River area. About 120 miles of them, many of those miles were hand made by Ken Smith, who has hiked the area since the early 1960's. He has also written two books about the river and the surrounding area: "The Buffalo River Country" and the "Buffalo River Handbook". These would be great to read before heading out to hike the area.

The more educated you are, the more enjoyable and safe your trip will be.

Caves are also found throughout the river area. Some can be explored while others are closed. The closures are caused by Geomyces sp. Fungus which causes White Nose Syndrome in bats, which in turn, kills them. You can check the National Park website for a list of caves that are open.

Thirteen campgrounds are scattered out along the river. Some are primitive while others offer nicer amenities. You can make reservations for some while others are first come, first serve. You can find a list of campsites at the reservation website.

Rustic and modern cabins are also available for rent along the Buffalo. One such is at Buffalo Point, which is about halfway down the river. Some are open year round, but some aren't. You can check them out at BuffaloPoint.com.

Conclusion

The Buffalo National River is a place that all nature lovers should visit. It is the cleanest river in the nation and is loved and appreciated by all that visit it.

There was a long and hard battle won to preserve this gem. Our debt to those who fought so hard can be paid back to them by simply going and enjoying this natural beauty.

Sources:
www.nps.gov/BUFF/
www.ideas.aetn.org