Burglar Vs. Cat Burglar

We often hear the terms burglar and cat burglar and believe them to mean the same thing, but there are notable differences. The differences are ones that could impact your life, literally. You should know the difference between the two, so you understand what could happen and are prepared to act or react to protect yourself and your property.

Burglars choose locations in which there will be little chance of confrontation. Burglars are looking to gain quick cash or obtain merchandise to fence. They have no desire for complications. Just yesterday, while the tenant was at work, one of the rental homes I maintain had the back door kicked in and the burglar took all the electronics. This is a typical smash and grab event. No one was home, there was no resistance and the thieves escaped-for now. (But they should be looking over their shoulder.) Burglars are also likely to "metal pick" homes that are empty such as between tenants or in repossession. The unoccupied houses are routinely stripped of their copper and heating and air conditioning components.

The cat burglar is a different "animal." The cat burglar is in search of excitement as well as loot and enters locations when people are known to be present. They desire the adrenaline pump that comes from the risk. The cat burglar is looking for the "thrill." They are many times members of a gang or some other group with criminal agendas. They may enter a home to burglarize, but may be anxious for encounter. Even if they are not discovered, they may linger after their acquisition in the "hopes" that there will be a clash or to "savor" their moment.

Of the two types of thieves, the cat burglar poses the most danger to individuals, since they are entering when people are present. This confrontational, thrill-seeking approach affords greater risk to the offender and feeds their need for the "rush" they desire. The cat burglar is far more of a personal threat than the burglar who wants to get in and out without conflict. Sadly, the cat burglar often commits other acts during the break-in such as assault, rape, and murder.

None of us want a visit from either kind of burglar. To lessen the chance, we should all be aware of the possible ways burglars might enter and work to make our properties and ourselves less vulnerable targets. Methods of forced entry (in no particular order) include the following but are limited only by the imagination and means available to the individual intent on getting in.

• · Seduction/persuasion - gaining entry by lying, presenting an urgent need, or otherwise misrepresenting themselves
• · Prying- using a jimmy, screw driver, pry bar or other object to open a door, window or lock
• · Picking- using a knife, hand fashioned or professional locksmith pick to open a lock
• · Pulling- using a dent puller or "slap hammer" to pull out the cylinder of the lock
• · Smash & Crash- breaking a window to gain access
• · Cutting glass - using a glasscutter to gain entry to unlock or unfasten the window or door
• · Slipping or "loiding"- using a credit card, nail file or filed down knife to slip the lock on a door
• · Brute force- Kicking or breaking a door down with the body or an instrument
• · Removing door panel- Kicking in or breaking the door panel, unscrewing the panels in the case of an aluminum door
• · Entry through walls - either broken down by tools or explosives
• · Entry through floors - use of drills or saws to make a hole in the floor boards big enough to crawl through

Obviously, where your property is located will dictate how aggressive you get with your anti-burglar tactics. Steel doors are a bigger challenge than wood ones. You should have two locks on all exterior doors, one of which should be a dead bolt. If the door has any type of window in it or near it that can be broken, the deadbolt should be key activated on BOTH sides and the key should NOT be stored within reach of that window. The strike plate and latch should be installed with three inch screws. Don't just install the strike plate over the mortised latch hole in the wood frame. Spend an extra $4.00 and purchase a security box strike plate (such as First Watch Model #1005) to make it just a little more difficult for would be intruders. Add a metal door reinforcer (such as Hickory Hardware Model #2002-AB) to give the door knob area a bit more tenacity. Install a door chain on all doors. I recommend the type that is solid metal (such as First Watch Model #1873) rather than the one with a chain. This is the type they use on commercial properties such as in hotels. Be sure to install with long screw.

Add security to sliding windows with window thumb locks (such as First Watch Model #1411, 2 pack about $3.00) and wood window locks (such as First Watch Model # 1419, 3 pack about $7.00.) for wood windows.

If you have an empty property (or you want to add security to your own home) apply a door security bar (such as the Master Lock Model #265D, available for about $20.00). Place it under the inside knob of the door that is most likely to be the choice access point--the door that is least visible from the street, usually the back door. Spend the money to install a metal air conditioner cage to prevent 'casual' theft. Secure the crawl space access with a padlock and use long screws or bolts to attach the hasp. If there is a patio door, install a patio door security bar (such as the First Watch Model #1275, under $20.00).

If you have appliances in an empty house and the house may be empty for a time, consider removing the appliances and putting them in storage. If you don't want to remove them, at least cover the windows that would allow them to be seen from the outside. If they don't see it, it is less of a temptation. Never leave window air conditioning units or portable heaters in an empty house. They will disappear.

Spending a few dollars and investing a little time now could save you thousands later-and maybe your life. The world is a dangerous place for the uninformed. Be smart. Educate yourself and those you love.

Personal Note: Ladies, if you live alone, I recommend a door security bar for every door. Keep it in place whenever you are alone. Don't open the door to people you don't know, even if you have a chain lock. Chain locks are a good idea, but they can give you a false sense of security. First, the door opens enough to get a good kick against. Second, the screws used to install them are usually too short to withstand much pressure. And, third, a simple pair of bolt cutters can lay it to waste. Even the security locks used in hotels that are all metal with no chain will not stop a determined person. The chain lock is of little use beyond the extra few seconds it will give you to lock yourself in a closet with your cell phone. So install one, just don't depend on it. (Grab your pepper spray, too.)

If you travel or need security for your dorm door or bedroom, consider purchasing a portable door lock. Also check out the Swedge at CorporateTravelSafety.com.

Note: I am not recommending any particular brands in this article. I give model numbers and references only to allow you to find and see the item I am discussing. You should explore all brands available and make your best choice.

If you are doing renovations or just like to DIY check out my other articles on home repair and renovation such as How to Repair a Hole in Drywall by going to my contributor's page.