Buying a Mechanically Sound Used Vehicle

Buying a used vehicle, especially from a private owner, can be a tricky and even intimidating proposition. But if one knows what to look for, the process can be straightforward, painless and even a money-saver!

There are two aspects to consider when buying a used vehicle: its mechanical condition and its cosmetic condition (or appearance). Of the two, good mechanical condition is an absolute requirement (unless you're buying the car for parts). Judging the cosmetic condition is somewhat subjective - i.e., eye of the beholder. Some folks require a very clean and well-maintained interior and exterior while others can live with the odd, small rust area on the wheel wells or slightly torn or worn upholstery. Therefore this article will focus on finding a vehicle in mechanically sound condition.

Of course, if you can afford an inspection of the vehicle by a professional mechanic before you buy it, by all means do so. But if you feel comfortable with your judgment and can identify the following telltale signs, eliminate the middleman and keep that money in your pocket!

It's best to bring along a friend when looking at a used car. He or she doesn't need to know anything about cars per se, but will serve as an extra pair of eyes and ears for you as you assess the vehicle. Looking and listening are essential to you as you consider a used vehicle. You can identify serious issues that will immediately disqualify a vehicle or, on the other hand, you might find minor issues that you can use as leverage for bargaining with the seller. Unless he has indicated that these things are reflected in the asking price, why should you have to pay for repairs?

First off, find out how many miles the vehicle has on it. Anything approaching one hundred thousand miles may be cause for concern. At this point, water and oil pumps begin to fail as do timing chains and belts. Inquire if these have been replaced. Also, don't be afraid to come right out and ask the seller if there are any problems with the vehicle that he is aware of. An honest seller with do their best to inform you of any issues with the vehicle. If a seller tells you there is nothing wrong and you use some of the following criteria to identify obvious problems, you should be wary that this individual may be trying to "dump" a faulty vehicle on you.

Before you jump in and see if the engine turns over with just the "bump" of the key, make a visual assessment of the vehicle regarding possible mechanical problems. First, look underneath the car's engine on the ground. Do you notice any spots or pools of liquid caused by dripping fluids such as coolant, oil, or transmission, power steering or brake fluids? You probably won't be able to discern the type of fluid but this is a definite red flag since it indicates a leak somewhere. Generally, coolant will be a yellowish color and have a very distinctive odor to it. Transmission fluid, when not burnt, will be a reddish color and engine oil will usually appear dark. A fluid leak should give you serious pause from the outset. However, a minor leak is not necessarily a reason to abandon your consideration of the vehicle - it may just mean a leaky coolant hose or worn valve-cover gaskets or transmission pan gasket - but unless you can identify these things specifically, you may want to look elsewhere for a vehicle. While you're down there, look at the vehicle's frame, muffler, catalytic converter and pipes. If any of these are excessively rusty, it may mean replacing that part very soon. Again, though these are not good things in themselves, they may figure in to your bargaining later. If the frame appears rusted to the point of being eroded away or compromised, walk away immediately. Short of getting a new chassis, this cannot be repaired cheaply.

Once you have established there are no fluid leaks on the ground, ask the seller to open the hood and visually inspect the engine. Is it relatively clean? Or do there appear to be oil stains and areas of accumulated sludge as if oil has been blown around the engine compartment? Do hoses appear to be in good shape - not kinked or excessively worn? Are belts in good condition or are they frayed and worn? Worn hoses and belts are not "deal breakers" but, once again, you may be able to talk the seller down somewhat if you point out that certain components will need to be replaced soon.

Next, check the oil, brake fluid and power steering fluid levels. Dipsticks are usually clearly marked, indicating proper levels. Again, if these levels are low - red flag. When checking the oil dipstick, look for clean oil at the proper level. Dirty oil means the owner probably just hasn't changed it in a while. This, too, is something for you to consider. It shows that the vehicle probably hasn't been maintained as well as it should have been over the years and is something to factor into your final decision.

You're now ready to climb into the vehicle and begin the next phase of your assessment. Check the steering column and be sure it is secure and doesn't "float" around when you grip it. Test the shifter lever for the same thing. Both should be firm and not have a "sloppy" feel when handled. Now ask your friend to go to the front and back of the vehicle while you test brakelights and headlights (don't forget the brights). Without starting the vehicle, turn the key to the "on" position so that gages and electronics are activated. Check your turn signals at this point. Do the radio and interior lights work properly? These could be considered minor issues but could also be an electrical system problem that could affect the car's operation as well.

Now for the moment of truth - starting the vehicle. If it is fuel injected, do not depress the gas pedal. If it is a carbureted vehicle and the engine is cold, slowly depress the pedal to the floor two or three times. With your friend standing behind the car and off to one side, turn the key in the ignition and see how the car "fires up." Does it start right away? Have your friend look for bluish smoke from the exhaust pipe. If present, this means oil is making its way into the cylinders and being burned and usually indicates costly repairs. If the car knocks severely or you hear metallic clanging in the engine, it may be faulty rods and you should walk away. Some slight lifter noise may be present on older vehicles and this may be corrected with minor adjustments by a mechanic or, in some cases, a simple oil change may solve the problem. If you don't hear anything alarming, give the car a minute or two to warm up and further listen to the engine. Rev the engine several times. Does it seem to run evenly or is there "misfiring?" If the car runs roughly or misfires, it could indicate that the timing needs adjustment or plugs are fouled. Both of these issues are minor but, again, require professional attention if you don't know how to do it yourself and, at around $50 an hour for a mechanic, you might end up paying more than you bargained for. This is probably another indication of how well the seller maintained the vehicle.

Once the vehicle has warmed up and idled down, put it into gear and see how smoothly the transmission operates. It should take hold gradually and not with a jerk or "clunk" noise. Repeat this in both "drive" and "reverse."

When taking the vehicle for a test drive, remember - safety first. Before pulling out onto the road, test the brakes and make sure they are sound. If the brakes are too "soft" and the pedal depresses all the way to the floor, do not drive the vehicle. The brake pads are probably severely worn. If you hear grinding as you brake or the brakes "grab" inordinately, this could be an indication of worn rotors and should also be considered unsafe. Depending upon how long the vehicle has sat undriven, the latter could merely be rust on the rotors. If you are unsure, however, do not drive the vehicle.

Your test drive should be fairly straightforward. Does the vehicle handle well? Does it pull to one direction or the other? Does it accelerate smoothly when starting off and downshift smoothly when coming to a stop? Does it idle properly when at a stop or when in "park?" You must use your best judgment and use vehicles you have driven in the past as reference points for these questions.

If the test drive is satisfactory, tally up your list of concerns and bargain with the seller accordingly. If the two of you reach an agreement and the title is signed over to you, you might want to look into getting a tune up at the first opportunity. Fresh oil, sparkplugs and belts do a world of good for any vehicle, new or used.

So, using a common-sense approach with a little bit of knowledge regarding what to look and listen for, you can purchase a sound, used vehicle and have many miles of happy, safe driving ahead of you.