Buying a Snake

Snakes are fascinating animals. In 7 years of giving classes/lectures with live reptiles, I know how strongly they can draw the imagination, and how quickly you can fall in love with these beautiful animals. After an encounter with a friend's pet snake, a live animal experience at a zoo or nature center, or watching too many back-to-back episodes of The Jeff Corwin Experience, it's a natural urge to bring a pet snake into your life. A snake can be an extremely rewarding pet, and is sure to grab the attention of your friends and family, but as with any pet, it's important that you know what you're getting into before taking responsibility for the animal. The simple steps in article will get you off on the right foot.

1) Wait a While

You've decided that you want a snake. Don't rush right out to the pet store and buy one today. Read the rest of this article, and find some more like it. Think about what kind of snake you want, and why you want it. Scaring your Dad or "because it's cool," may not be the best reasons to move forward, here. Reptiles tend to live for a very long time, and any animal you purchase will be with you for 10, 20, or even 30 years or more. This is a big undertaking. Think about how your life may change in that time. Many places don't allow pets, and some that do may not allow you to have a snake, which some roommates and landlords may unreasonably fear. I suggest taking at least 2 weeks, preferably a month, to think about it, and see if your excitement fades at all in that time. This will allow you to avoid making an impulse purchase based on one really cool experience, and will give you time to follow the next step.

2) Do Your Research

Too many people purchase pets - be they dogs, cats, ferrets, or reptiles - based on a gut-reaction at the pet store, and before they've taken the time to do their research. The result is often disappointing for both the new owner and the animal. It turns out that puppies can bite, ferrets are kind of smelly, and turtles need some special lights in order to be healthy. In the best cases, the new owners can adjust their expectations and learn to properly care for the animal on the fly; in the worst cases, poorly cared for animals decline in health and can die. It happens more often than we'd like to admit, and for that reason, it's critical that you know what you're getting into. Answer these questions before heading out to the pet store.

3) What kind of snake do you want?

Every species is unique, and there are certainly snake species that are better-suited to beginners than others. Ball Pythons, Corn Snakes, and Red-Tailed Boas all make excellent starter snakes. They're all pretty tolerant of handling, hardy, and attractive - for these reasons, they're also generally available locally and inexpensive. Some other species have very specific needs in terms of temperature and humidity, feeding schedules, or lighting. Some may never adjust well to handling and are often aggressive. Still other species get extremely large, making them difficult to care for and requiring incredibly expensive cages or enclosures. Be careful to choose the species that is right for you, and one that you can care for properly.

4) What set-up costs are involved?

While the cost of some hatchlings can be quite reasonable, the animal itself is only the beginning. When you purchase your snake, you'll also need to buy everything it's going to need in order to be healthy and happy. Setup costs include:

- Snake

As I said, you'll need a snake. A hatchling will run between $40 and $150 or more, depending on species and where you are.

- Tank/cage

Your choice of cage is the single most important aspect of keeping the animal. You want to provide a safe and comfortable home for your new friend, and an attractive means of displaying your animal for you and your friends to watch. Aquariums are quite popular snake cages, and clip-on screen tops for most standard aquariums can be purchased at most pet stores. Generally, a snake cage should be at least 2/3 the length of the animal itself, and at least ½ as wide as the snake's length. Young snakes grow quickly, though, and you should plan ahead for your snake's adult length if at all possible. Snakes are amazing escape artists - whatever sort of enclosure you decide on should be secure. Plan to spend anywhere from $50 to $400 or more for a large tank.

- Light/heat fixtures

Unlike many reptiles, snakes do not generally require any special UV lighting in order to be healthy. This makes them a little cheaper to keep than comparable turtles or lizards. Even so, a regular photoperiod, simulating daytime and nighttime light cycles, can really help keep your snake healthy. This is achieved through the use of daytime and nighttime bulbs, plugged into a simple timer that you can pick up at your local hardware store for about five bucks. Nighttime bulbs appear red or blue to the human eye, and the snakes don't see them at all. Many night bulbs provide heat as well as light. If you don't want to view your snake at night, and have an appropriate heat source in the cage, you can skip the night bulbs and let the cage go dark. Heat, however, is a must.

Heat for snakes can be provided by an under-tank heating element or, preferably, a heat-producing bulb or coil element that hangs above the snake's tank. NEVER USE A HEAT ROCK FOR A SNAKE!!! "Hot rocks" or in-tank radiant heating units get very hot. Snakes have been known to burn themselves very badly on "hot rock" style heating elements. It's very important that you have a thermometer in your cage and that you're able to maintain temperatures appropriate to your snake. It's alright if it takes you a day or two to get the temperature just right - this takes trial and error. Experiment with covering/uncovering sections of the screen top to trap or release available heat. It would be best to work this out before your new snake arrives, but if you're a few degrees off for a day or two, it's not the end of the world. It's also best to provide a "warm side" and a "cool side" of the cage, so focus your heating efforts toward one half of the tank. This allows your snake to choose whether it wants to be warmer or cooler at any given time. The clamp-light style fixtures available at pet stores are not significantly different from those available at half the price at the hardware store - they're just prettier. It's fine to buy the cheaper versions, but check the voltage rating before attaching your bulbs. Including lights, heat, and fixtures, plan on around $50.

- Water Bowl

Any old bowl will do, so long as it's large enough for your snake to curl up and completely submerge in the water once in a while if it wants to. This is especially important when your snake is preparing to shed. Replace the water in the bowl regularly - at least every few days.

- Hides

Everyone likes their privacy, including snakes. A secure hiding spot makes a snake feel secure and safe, and gives it a great place to take a nap. A good hide is large enough for the snake to get all the way into it, but not much larger. A cardboard box, old cottage-cheese container with a hole in it, or a terra-cotta plant pot with the hole in the bottom slightly enlarged are all popular choices. To enlarge the hole in a plant pot, soak the base of the pot in some warm water for a little while, and then gently knock out small chips from the hole using a hammer and chisel or the end of a screwdriver. These pots make sturdy and attractive hides. It's best to place a hide in both the warm and cool ends of the cage.

5) What recurring costs are involved?

- Substrate

Substrate is a fancy word for whatever you line the cage with. Snakes aren't nearly as messy as a hamster or gerbil, so the substrate needs changing slightly less often - once every couple weeks should be plenty. Even so, you'll be buying substrate for as long as you have your snake. Wood chips are an attractive and popular substrate option, but beware - certain wood products can be very harmful to your snake! Pine and cedar chips or mulch contain volatile oils that can damage both the respiratory system and skin of reptiles. If you choose to use a wood substrate, cypress and aspen are good choices. There are many fine substrate options available at your local pet store - some produced specifically with your snake in mind. In a pinch, black and white newspaper, hand-shredded, makes a good, safe substrate option.

- Mice/Rats

All snakes are carnivores. For a pet snake, that means mice. I highly suggest that all snake-keepers get their animals used to taking frozen mice. While the thought of a freezer-full of mice may be unappealing, it's much safer for your snake than live mice. Many a pet snake has been hurt by live prey. Another benefit of frozen mice is convenience. With a mouse in the freezer, you have ready food for your snake, and don't have to worry about caring for or acquiring live mice. Frozen mice can be purchased at most pet stores, or you can get them online. You thaw them out for feeding in warm water. Make sure they've been thawed out COMPLETELY before offering them to your snake. Most folks feed their snakes once or twice per week on a schedule.

- Vet Care

Like all pets, all new snakes should be brought to the vet soon after you get them for a checkup. Make sure your vet knows how to work with snakes, and have them do a fecal exam to check for any illness. Snakes are amazingly tolerant of minor neglect and poor care, and may put up with it for weeks or even months before showing ill effects. By the time your snake acts sick, it's very, very sick. If your snake ever gets to that point, you'll be glad to have a good relationship with a qualified vet.

6) Buy/setup the cage

Take a special trip to the store just to buy the cage, lights, substrate, and other habitat requirement. Bring everything home and set it up, making sure it's ready to move in. Often, you'll end up forgetting something, and your snake will be grateful that you took the time to prepare for it ahead of time. Make sure you like the location of the cage, and that it seems big enough. Check the temperature against your research for the species you've chosen. When everything's perfect, it's time to go pick up your snake!

7) Buy your snake

Head back to the petstore to buy your snake, let the store personnel know that you're ready to buy, and go inspect your options. If it's clear that you'll be purchasing an animal, the staff should be happy to bring animals out for you to inspect and hold. If this is a problem, don't purchase from that store. A healthy snake will have clear eyes and a smooth profile. While snakes eyes do get cloudy when they're preparing to shed, there are other reasons for cloudy eyes, and it's not a good idea to purchase a snake with anything but clear eyes. Make sure the nose and eyes are clear, and not runny. Check the vent, or cloaca - this is where the snake does its business, and is located on the bottom of the snake, almost all the way at the end of the tail. The vent should be relatively smooth and closed. If there are lumps, or the vent appears red or wet, avoid the snake. The snake should feel warm or very slightly cool, and dry. If it is exceptionally cold, this is a sign that the snake has not been well cared for. Chilling snakes is also a method that unscrupulous salesmen will use to calm a very aggressive snake, so be aware. A good beginner snake will be alert and active, inquisitive, but not jumpy.

8) Taking your snake home.

The First Two Weeks:

After two weeks, you and your new snake will fall into a good routine. Here's my suggestion to get you through those first weeks.

Day 1: Bring your snake home, make sure that it has water, hides, light, and that the temperature is right. Don't handle your snake, and don't try to feed it.

Day 2: Observe your snake carefully, keep an eye on the temperature, don't handle it, and don't try to feed it.

Days 3-5: Take your snake out and handle it for 30 minutes or so every day. Don't be surprised if it's nervous, and don't restrain it. Some describe handling a skittish snake as letting the snake hold you, instead of the other way around.

Day 6: Today, you'll try to feed your snake. I recommend feeding in a container separate from your snake's cage. A large Tupperware is ideal. Place the snake and the thawed mouse in the container together, close the top, and watch from a distance. Give them 30 minutes or so. If your snake does not eat the mouse, try wiggling it with some long tweezers. Failing that, there are some wonderful articles online regarding finicky eaters. Return your snake to it's cage immediately after its meal.

Day 7: Leave your snake alone as much as possible today - it's digesting. It's always best to give your snake a day or two to relax after eating.

Days 8-12: Handle your snake for as long as 90 minutes, but never for more than 45 minutes at a time. You're still getting used to one another.

Day 13: Feeding day again! Follow the instructions for day #6.

Day 14: Take a break. Again, leave your snake alone today to digest.

Hopefully this article has helped you in acquiring your new snake. If you take good care of it, you and your snake will be friends for a long, long time!