Canoe Maine's Unspoiled Allagash Wilderness Waterway

In 1857, Henry David Thoreau first canoed the northern Maine woods waterways with a pair of guides, over the years he'd return often, exploring the lake regions and eventually the Allagash River. The author and naturalist chronicled his travels in the series of essays that became the book The Maine Woods. Today, with good planning and the luxury of time, visitors can enjoy a similar outdoor adventure and see this remote area in much the way Thoreau did.

The 92-mile Allagash Wilderness Waterway was established in 1966 and later became the first area included in the National Wild and Scenic River System by the United States Department of the Interior. It includes placid lakes, Class II rapids, picturesque ponds and one of the most scenic canoe trips in America. Along with the vast Baxter State Park, the Allagash represents an enormous investment in pristine land the state has preserved for future generations.

A trip of nearly 100 miles sounds intimidating, especially if you are planning on canoeing with your family. But the trip can be done safely and pleasantly in a week, as long as the wind and weather cooperate, and provided you are well-versed in canoeing safety, and have the proper canoe accessories and equipment. But the trip is not for beginners. If you're not comfortable taking a trip like this alone, there are several reputable services that offer guided tours.

If you're looking to get away from the bustle of city life to a place where there are no cell phones, no TV, no video games - a Maine canoe trip is a perfectly kid-friendly outdoor recreation activity you can enjoy as a family. Even a professionally-guided tour, in which all the equipment and food is provided, can be a budget-friendly outdoor vacation for families at less than $100 per day per person.

An Allagash trip typically begins at Chamberlain Lake and, contrary to expectations, heads north. On Eagle Lake, you can spend the night at the same campsite used by Thoreau on Pillsbury island, or come upon the totally unexpected sight of two steam locomotives, vestiges of the once-thriving logging industry.

Those seeking a somewhat shorter trip can canoe just the Allagash River, putting in further north at Churchill Dam. A staff of rangers and others from the Maine state bureau of parks and lands can assist in portaging your equipment (or your entire party) around the whitewater at Chase Rapids north of the dam. More experienced canoeists can give it a go themselves, and will know enough to have waterproofed their belongings. From there, the trip north is magnificent, with a single short portage around Allagash Falls as you head for the convergence of the Allagash and St. John's Rivers near the Canadian border.

The fishing is fantastic, especially in early summer. Brook trout are abundant, and you'll probably manage to hook a salmon or two along the way. Is there a better way to spend an afternoon that floating along with the current and casting a fly line out over the river?

The sightseeing is unforgettable. From the majestic views of Mt Katahdin at the lake end of the trip, to the almost unavoidable appearance of moose, an occasional black bear, and a recovering population of bald eagles, there's a photo to be snapped at every turn.

Be prepared for bugs. This is Maine, after all, and the early summer black fly swarms give way to the mosquitoes by the 4^th of July and to pesky little no-see-ums come August. It's mostly an issue at campsites, less so when you're on the water.

Like any outdoor adventure, this trip will take careful planning. Know where you plan to put in and finish your trip, as well as how you plan to get back to your starting point once you're done. Bring plenty of food and fresh water. The Maine Department of Conservation has helpful information available on its website at www.maine.gov.