Car Repair: 8 Tips for Replacing a Stud Bolt

Fortunately, most people never have to deal with replacing a wheel stud on their car. While it is usually not a tough job, it can be a little frustrating. If you have to do it outside, the weather can make the job less than fun. The studs are the bolts that stick out so that your tire and wheel can be fastened securely to your car with the wheel nuts.

Start the job by purchasing a new stud at the auto parts store.

If your parts supplier is uncertain about the precise size of your studs, you may need to remove the stud and take it with you to the store. Most of the time, just taking a wheel nut with you is enough to assure that you buy the correct size stud. Studs are not very expensive. So, most of the cost of replacing one is wrapped up in the labor charge at a repair shop. By doing the job yourself, you can save almost 100% of of the cost if you have the tools.

Use a jack and raise the car until the tire clears the ground enough to allow a stand to be placed securely under the car.

Once you are sure that the car will not slip off of the jack and the stand, block the tires so that the car cannot move. Loosen and remove all of the wheel nuts holding the tire and wheel where the damaged stud is located. After the tire is removed, inspect the brake system to see if it is a disc or drum configuration. If it has a drum, this will have to be removed.

Most of the time the drum is not exceptionally hard to remove.

Lightly tapping on the edge of the drum while pulling on the other side with your hand will normally pop it loose. If it is really tight, you may be able to soak it in some fluid to dissolve the rust and loosen it like you would a rusty bolt. This may require you to wait a few minutes for the solvent to do its work. Repeat the tapping and pulling process a few more times. If the hub does not let go, you may have to borrow or rent a hub puller to get it off.

Once the hub is off, the rest of the process is similar for either type of braking system.

At this point, either the rotor or the axle will appear as a plate with the studs protruding out. Inspect the area behind the plate to make sure that there is clearance for the stud to be removed. If the tolerance is very narrow, look and see if there is a hole cut into the rear plate that will allow you to rotate the studs over the hole to remove them. If so, position the stud to be replaced over this hole before proceeding.

Use heavy hammer to tap the stud out.

Usually, a three or five pound mallet works best for this process. Try not to beat the stud with a great amount of force. If it looks really rusty, you may need to apply some product to soften the rust to make it easier to remove. A few firm but not hard taps will knock the stud from the hole.

You will notice that the stud has splines that fit into grooves in the hole where it lodges.

The new stud will have the same splines. Studs also have a large flat head to keep them from slipping through the hole. What needs to happen now is that the stud must be gently pulled into position until the splines are in the notches and the head rests against the back of the metal plate.

To press the stud into place, use some washers or other spacers and the lug nut from the stud.

Ease the stud into the notches so that it is lined up and somewhat stuck in place. Slip the washers or spacers over the stud and start the nut onto the bolt part of the stud. Finger tighten the nut until it is snug. Use a ratchet or lug wrench to carefully tighten the nut until the lug has slipped into place. Remove the nut and the washers.

The stud has now been replaced.

Put the hub, if there is one, back in place. Mount the tire onto the studs and attach the lug nuts finger tight onto the studs. Using the lug wrench, tighten the nuts. Remove the stand and lower the vehicle back to the ground. Remove the jack. Finish tightening the lug nuts until the wheel is secure on the car. Drive the car slowly for a few blocks. Check the lugs. If they are still nice and tight, the job is finished.