Members of the Elaphe genus (rat snakes) are best housed in a thirty to fifty-five gallon aquarium, with at least one-third of the floor warmed to 80 degrees by an under-cage heating pad. The other two-thirds should not be allowed to cool below 70 degrees. The best bedding material for rat snakes is artificial grass. Also provide the animal with shelter; a water dish is another necessity. For decor, treat a tree limb so as to remove ecto parasites, and place it in the enclosure.
Rat snakes should be fed on a weekly basis. For juveniles, offer "pinkie" mice, then allow the reptile to progress to "fuzzies" and, later, adult mice or juvenile rats. Feed only pre-killed prey, as rodents sometimes may severely injure or even kill pet snakes. Frozen mice and rats may be kept in the freezer, and then served by thawing completely and dangling in front of the snake to strike at.
As previously mentioned, a bowl of water should be offered so that the reptile may drink and bathe. Often the snake will defecate in the water, so change the water no less than every other day. Water will also be important around the time of shedding, which can be noticed to as impending when the serpent's eyes turn milky blue. Soaking the snake in water will allow easy shedding later.
Many avid herpetologists will want to handle their pets. This is generally not an issue, as rat snakes are calm when handled on a regular basis by the same individual. When holding the snake, be sure to support its body, and do not grip tightly near the head.
Finally, watch the new pet for signs of ill health. Regurgitation of meals and failure to eat over severely long periods of time are both signs of infection. Locate a local veterinarian experienced in reptile care, just in case; when well taken care of, many rat snakes will make excellent pets for their owners that live for more than twenty years!
Published by Matt Whisman
I'm nineteen years old. View profile
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