Cebu: The Philippines' Queen City of the South

Most people when they think about the Philippines (if they ever think about it at all) think in terms of the metropolitan behemoth that is Manila with its affluent denizens living side by side with the slum dwellers. Or they think about gorgeous tropical paradise that is Boracay with its deliciously white sand and crystal clear waters. This is sad because, while both Manila and Boracay are amazing destinations, the Philippines has more to offer than these two extreme ends of the spectrum. Somewhere in the south of the country is a happy middle - named Cebu City. For the unfamiliar, Cebu City, the capital of the Cebu Province, is a city of moderate size of 1.3 million people in the south of the Philippines. A major port city, Cebu is the oldest city in the country, having been "discovered" by Ferdinand Magellan on 1521. Several days later, Magellan was slain in the neighboring island of Mactan by the island's chieftain Lapu-lapu.

While in Cebu, visit the city's most famous landmark, the Magellan's Cross. Like the rest of the country, the population mostly makes up Catholics. One of the country's most famous festivals, the Sinulog Festival, held every third Sunday of January, is an elaborate parade in honor of Santo Niño, the baby Jesus Christ. It has its own international airport which is great news if you don't want to pass through Manila. Speaking of which, Cebu City is nothing like Manila. Unlike Manila with its pollution, its railway transits and career-spanning traffic, Cebu is pleasantly accessible. The bright and colorful jeepneys (a local mode of transportation in the Philippines) are number-coded, which means all you have to memorize is the code to get from point A to point B. Example, you want to get from Ayala Center to SM Cebu, you ride the jeepneys marked 14D or 22B. It's that easy. Best part yet, every ride cost about 11 cents.

And the people, unlike in Manila, will happily point you in the right direction. If you weren't feeling sociable, you can just as easily take a cab and anywhere in the city will take about 15 minutes and cost 1 to 2 dollars. But it'd be a real shame to waste all that dough just because you're scared to talk to people. Cebu has the quaint charm of a small town. Buildings that rarely go up higher than four stories make up a sizable part of the landscape. The rest is made up of small, commercial shops and restaurants purveying anything from commonplace food like dim sum and grilled chicken, to the slightly irregular like grilled ostrich and rice wrapped in bamboo leaves (I'm guessing they're bamboo leaves. In reality, I don't know what they are).

Sometimes it shows signs of being a one-horse town because of the limited places to go to. For the night-lifers, there are a handful of clubs to go to for an all-night partying. Vudu by Crossroads is a definite place to see and be seen if you like dancing. Café Havana at the Ayala Center has amazing Cuban music and Latin dancing. If you enjoy good food and great music, drop by the Banilad Town Center where several trendy bars and restaurants are lined up for your eating and drinking pleasure. Whether your palate craves for European, Northern American, and/or Asian cuisine, BTC is sure to satisfy. Noteworthy places to visit at the BTC include Formo, Krua Thai, Uncle Henry's, Yellowcab Pizza and Asian Fusion.

For the indie rock crowd, Handuraw Café by Cuenco Street at Mabolo offers endless weekends of rock and reggae fests by local talents. Their pizza is also one of the best in the city. (Recommendation: If you want to get inebriated hard and fast, go for Red Horse Beer. It's available everywhere, cost anywhere from 90 cents to $1.50. And it promises to mess you up quicker than any other beer.) Casinos, golf courses, shopping - all these are available for the tourist seeking to have a great time. For the more adventurous, there are a million and one holes-in-the-wall you can visit which offer extraordinary meals at incredibly cheap price. The Aranos Restaurant and Mooon (yes, there're three o's) Café in Guadalupe are a little difficult to find but have amazing Spanish and Mexican meals. Any self-respecting cab driver will be able to take you to these places.

Meanwhile, nature lovers and beach bums will find Cebu to an absolute paradise. Cebu boasts of 166 islands and islets with breathtaking sandy beaches and waters teeming with marine life. Head north or head south, the island of Cebu Province is littered with well-known resorts like Moalboal or Shangri-la. Island hopping is the favorite pastime of foreigners and natives alike on weekends. Islands like Malapascua, Apo Island, Bantayan, Siquijor and others are well-known for their scuba-diving. Jumping from island to island is considerably cheap even for the budget-conscious backpacker.

Cebu is the love child of Manila and Boracay - the perfect combination of urban living and rural sentimentality. Bearing the sweet comforts of a modern city but close enough to nature that you can go hiking without spending too much time in preparation. Here is one of those rare exotic locales where you can shift from evening dress to swimwear without skipping a beat.