Chito Alla: Searching for Life on the Natchez Trace

It's never fun waking up, not knowing why you're in so much agony. Rising from a death-like period of unconsciousness, with dried blood and other fluids caked in your hair and smeared across your face. Whatever is in your mouth is sour and feels like real thick sorghum syrup is coating your teeth and throat. You don't know if it's from the booze, the puke or the blood that your clothes are also covered in, but the smell and the taste is terrible.

The experience wasn't new to the young man, known only as Chito to the other miscreants at Natchez Under-The-Hill. He'd started showing up a couple times a year in around 1790-something, four or five years earlier. He always came with plenty of money, a fresh outfit of clothes, including new boots, and an almost too friendly demeanor. Like many others who frequented the whorehouses, gambling halls and bars Under-The-Hill, Chito came to escape from whatever reality he lived in. He came to Natchez to drink, gamble, screw and fight; nothing more! When he left, days or possibly weeks later, the clothes, money and charm had been spent.

This day, he knew it was time to go back to where he came from… if only he knew where that was. It seemed wherever Chito went he didn't quite fit in. He had never really remembered belonging somewhere specific and for the last five or six years had just gone where he felt like going. He had no agenda or purpose as far as anyone who ever met him could tell.

And that's the way it had always been and probably always would be. The way Chito thought of his life, was that without knowing where he came from, there wasn't much sense in knowing where he was going. Although he was not able to remember anything about his parentage, he had often wondered what caused him to be deserted in that swamp, that lay next to the Trail that he now slowly walked North on.

Tribal folklore tells of the young boy who was found by a band of Choctaw a bit south of where the Yokanookany joined the Pearl River. When discovered sitting among the cypress trees watching alligators that hungrily watched him, the boy showed no fear or emotion. The Indians, leery of the odd boy at first, took him with them back to their village.

His appearance was different than anything the Choctaw people had seen before. His curly blonde hair and blue eyes were in sharp contrast to his dark, nearly olive-toned skin. His display of absolutely no emotion kept even the fiercest warriors of the tribe at a safe distance, cautious of any special gifts from the Gods the golden child may be endowed with. Most disturbing to the tribal leaders, was that the boy's size was inordinately large for one who could not, or would not speak.

The Choctaw examined and observed the boy for many days, trying to learn what made him different from all others. They didn't realize the boy also observed them and listened to their language, which he didn't at first understand, but gradually learned. Eventually, the tribe gave him the name Chito Alla, Choctaw for Enormous Child

As time passed without incident, the novelty and most of the caution subsided, giving way to the indifference that comes with familiarity.

For several years, even though Chito was never really adopted into the tribe, he was allowed to live among them and they fed him. There was never any effort on the part of the Indians to express much in the way of concern, nurturing or caring, nor was there any indication from Chito that he needed any. He was more or less avoided and even ignored among the Choctaw, but still, he continued to watch, listen and learn.

It was during those years, probably between 1788 and 1798, which Chito learned to hunt, how to fight, and how to survive. During the years he stayed with the Choctaw people, many of life's lessons were learned, many were not. Also, each year he traveled throughout the lands known as Choctaw nation, either with hunting parties or by himself, always searching for any knowledge of the parents that he felt had sold him to the Choctaw people.

It was on one of these journeys that Chito first met Big and Little Harpe, just north of a farming town called Rocky Springs. This was the spot where land belonging to the Choctaw ended and he had no idea what existed beyond the boundary to the South. The Harpes said they set up camp near the newly emerging town, because they had business there. They were really there because it was located away from the regularly traveled route through Choctaw country, and the chance they'd be recognized by a resident of Rocky Springs was small.

Chito never really understood what the emptiness he felt inside was caused by, but many who know his story say it was loneliness mixed with the desire to have a family to belong to. It had never occurred to the young man to waste time worrying about it. Nonetheless, when he first met the Harpes, they immediately noticed the emptiness in his eyes and were apparently quite impressed by his chilly resolve. He in turn, relished the sense of belonging they gave him.

It seemed like the first time he'd ever been relevant in the world, as they told him tales and showed an interest in his story. When they learned he didn't know how old he was or who his ancestors were, they made up a birth date of October 31, 1783 and told him he could be a part of their family. They, in turn, saw Chito as a protégé, old enough to be past that irritating, whining, shitting and crying, toddler stage, yet young enough to mold into their image.

If Chito hadn't been so eager to belong, his natural instincts would have sensed that something was wrong with his new friends. He probably would have noticed his intuition telling him to run as fast and as far as he could in the opposite direction of where the Harpes were. Instead, he accepted the invitation they offered and joined them in some of their travels.

After stopping at Rocky Springs and meeting the Harpes' three wives, who prepared a sack of biscuits and dried venison for them, Big, Little and Chito proceeded south. Since he was visiting this area for the first time, Chito didn't even notice they stayed mostly off the main trail.

It was spring, and as could be expected that time of year, a steady drizzle fell that afternoon making travel rough. After a couple hours, having not gone too far, Big announced they'd spend the night. They camped under the trees near a waterfall, which didn't seem that special after walking in the rain all afternoon.

Big and Little were having a private talk just before dark. Chito figured they were talking business or some such thing so he explored the area a little out of ear shot. Then the little talk escalated into hollerin.' Chito turned toward the noise just in time to see Little pull a knife and start slashing at Big. He broke it up long enough for them to cool off. The Harpes apologized to Chito for the outburst and said it was just a brotherly thing. Then they all had a good laugh before turning in for the night.

Chito never did know that the conversation that got so heated was really about him. Little thought they could sell him as a slave because of his dark skin and curly hair. He didn't know if he was a nigger or not, but they should be able to get some money for him in Natchez. Big really did want him to teach the family business to, and because of the boys uncaring attitude, he should be easy to teach how to make a living on The Path to Choctaw Nation.

The next morning the rain had stopped and the rays of the Sun peeked in and out of a thick fog that blanketed the forest floor. It was decided that Natchez was their destination. The Harpes promised Chito it would be an experience he'd never forget. They talked of traveling west and jumping on a flatboat heading to New Orleans for the ride into Natchez, but Chito wanted to stay on the road, hoping to meet someone who may know of his parents. Big and Little agreed, saying they could conduct some business along the way

The next few days were spent talking idly while the trio continued south. The Harpes kept talking about the fun they'd have in Natchez and Chito shared several things he had learned from the Choctaw. He told them about burial mounds and how the ancestors of the Choctaw and Chickasaw, the Natchez used them ceremonially. He also showed them many of the things in the forest that could be used as food, such as wild onions and certain tree barks.

On the third day after leaving Rocky Springs, for the first time they heard a voice other than their own on the trail. The Harpes hid back from the road and told Chito to do the same, until they could decide whether or not the rider coming toward them was dangerous or not. As the rider came closer they realized the man was singing at the top of his lungs… apparently to his mule! Big Harpe recognized the song as a Hymn he heard when he was younger.

As the man and mule got to their location, Big told Chito stay hidden and watch and learn while him and Little went to work. It started as small talk. "How far to Notchey, Stranger?" "Nice day for travelin'," "What's your business?" and "Where ya' headin," were a few of the things that were said. He was a tobacco farmer from Shady Grove, Tennessee and had recently brought his crop to Natchez to sell. He had planned to spend his time on the journey home teaching the Native Americans about God.

Chito paid attention, but was confused as to what was to be learned… until the Harpes ordered the rider off his mule. They then made him walk as Little led the mule, right past Chito and into the deep, dark woods. Chito wondered what kind of bird was making the shrill sounds he was hearing as Big and Little went to work and he waited. The sounds he was hearing belonged to no bird, but rather to the man who was being gruesomely tortured; skinned alive.

When the Harpes returned to where Chito was, Big and Little had blood on their hands…. and faces…. and clothes. They also had a look on their faces that Chito had never before seen on anyone. They sneered vacantly as they continued South, motioning to Chito to join them. They walked at a rapid pace and said nothing for two or three hours.

When they came to Bullen Creek, they stopped and washed up. Chito, still in a state of wonder remained silent, not knowing what to think or feel about his friends. After washing up, Big came over to where he was sitting and handed him $390.00 and said, "He had it and we needed it, if we were going to enjoy Natchez tomorrow night." Chito had never seen money before and wasn't sure what to do with it. He was getting ready to ask about the farmer when Little walked up and suggested they should be going if they were to reach Mount Locust by nightfall.

As they walked, Little explained to Chito they'd have some cooked food and possibly even a bed to sleep on when they reached Mount Locust. He also told him it was likely they'd see one of those mound things they spoke of the other day. "Maybe it's just a funny looking, big, flat, hill, but we'll see it in the morning," he told Chito.

Sleep was evasive that night as they shared a room with several other travelers' and Chito tried to make sense of what happened just that morning. Perhaps it was nothing, he thought. Big and Little had been friendly and were his friends and they are acting like everything's okay, so it probably is, he justified to himself.

The next day they rose early, ate some flapjacks covered in sorghum and headed out early. They were still 15 miles from the pleasures they sought under the hill of Natchez.

When they got to the city it was bustling with people everywhere. There were many homes built of wood and rock and everyone seemed to ride a horse. Chito had never seen anything like it.

The general store was just closing when they got to the door. They persuaded the shopkeeper to outfit them with new clothes. A full set for the three of them was all it took to convince him to stay open. They then proceeded to the bathhouse to soak before heading to their ultimate destination by the docks.

They passed enormous homes as they walked and Chito was amazed at the civility and poise practiced by everyone he saw. Ladies in gowns and men in suits were everywhere, obviously living a life of luxury that he'd never imagined. Big and Little Harpe showed him how to tip his hat and suggested he do so when appropriate. The events of the previous morning were nearly forgotten, as the three descended the hill to the place the trade boats arrive. They were officially Under-The-Hill of Natchez and Chito's lessons of life were just beginning.

It was that week that Chito first tasted liquor, a woman, or the thrill of winning at gambling. He also experienced the anguish of a hangover, the thud of a club against his ribs and what it felt like to take the life of another human with nothing but a broken bottle. After he killed the jealous dock worker whose woman Chito had been "studying" with, Big suggested they leave the area, just in case someone would miss the peon. They quickly and quietly left Natchez and headed back up the Path to Choctaw Nation.

This was the path being used as a regular route from the east to the southwest part of the country and was seeing more and more travelers all the time. For the next six months or so, Chito continued on with the Harpe Brothers to eventually travel the full route between Nashville in the State of Tennessee to the Grindstone Ford of the Bayou Pierre in the Mississippi Territory, as the mail route came to be called.

Although the land surrounding the road was owned by the Choctaw and Chickasaw Indians, it became a regular route for those who shipped their wares down the rivers from the north and east. After selling their merchandise, they went home via this very road. Big and Little told Chito it was their job to relieve some of these travelers of their wealth. Chito was with them several more times when they took money, clothes and livestock from those on the trail, but he thought most of them were simply sent on their way afterwards, a bit wiser from the experience.

It was several months later, about a day's travel south of where they crossed the Tennessee River by ferry, the first time he actually saw what the Harpe brothers did to their victims after relieving them of their funds. He had returned to camp after exploring what may have been some of the ceremonial mounds of the Natchez people of times past, to find a disturbing scene.

He was first alerted to it by the screams he heard from the forest, a sound similar to the one he'd heard when the farmer was robbed near Mount Locust. He watched in disbelief from the bushes as the men he thought were friends took turns skinning a man alive, while the other danced. Once in awhile, they'd hack off a finger or toe and toss it into the bushes. As the man screamed, the dancing continued and something snapped in Chito's mind.

He decided then and there that he wasn't intended to belong with someone, somewhere, but rather to be alone the rest of his days. He turned and began running, trying to get as far from what he had seen as he could. Taking money was one thing. Torture and killing was totally different. He'd have nothing to do with it.

As for robbing the travelers of the Natchez road, well, that was wrong too, Chito thought to himself. Besides that, before he fled from the horrible sight where he witnessed Big and Little's true selves being revealed, they had confided in him where they hid the fruits of their labors. After hearing of the capture and executions of both men, Chito found the stash and moved it to where only he knew it was. He went back to the huge amount of money twice a year. Then he'd proceed to Natchez Under-The-Hill, where he felt he belonged, at least for a week or so.