Chocolate & Zucchini: Daily Adventures in a Parisian Kitchen

Clotilde Dusoulier's web site , Chocolate & Zucchini first came to my attention a couple of years ago when I was looking for interesting menu ideas for the holidays. There I found not only a treasure trove of intriguing recipes, but also a look into what it is like to live, shop and dine divinely in Paris by reading the charming story lines attached to them.

Not surprisingly, Ms. Dusoulier has recently published a delightful cookbook with the same name and similar format as the site.

In her introduction, this young (27) and talented (she not only wrote the book, she did all the food photography in her apartment) sets forth several simple food philosophies:

• Have fun and be creative with food. Don't take yourself or the outcomes of your experiments too seriously.
• Eat seasonally and buy locally.
• Develop relationships with and learn from the purveyors you patronize.

Since I too espouse these same philosophies, I was delighted to find a soul mate.

The recipes in this small, beautifully presented book are broken down into three categories: simple everyday cooking, recipes for entertaining, and "sweet things." The French names for the dishes make them sound elaborate but most of the recipes are easy to follow and suggestions for substitute ingredients are given. Chapters are punctuated with little vignettes on ingredient origins and preparation techniques. All recipes are accompanied by wine paring ideas from Lenn Thompson of lenndevours.com.

Browsing through the recipes I was tempted by the intriguing flavor combinations; Chicken Salad with Peaches and Hazelnuts, Soft Boiled Eggs with Artichoke Bread Fingers, Lamb Tagine with Pears, and Nectarine, Peach and Ginger Tart.

One recipe, Tomato, Pistachio and Chorizo Loaf (recipe follows),was so appealing that I had to make it for a dinner party I was attending. While it was as tasty as it sounded, it was a tad dry, and a bit crumbly. This could have been due to my antique stove's somewhat erratic temperature control, but I plan on adding a bit more yogurt than called for the next time I make this recipe.

I was also pleased to find several of my favorites recipes from the web site such Cacao and Zucchini Absorption pasta, a creamy pasta dish made risotto style, and Chocolate and Zucchini Cake, a classy take on the chocolate and zucchini breads I remember from my Midwest childhood when bumper crops of zucchini spurred the cooks imagination.

Several classic French recipes are featured, such as Pan Bagnat, a delicious salad on a roll; Pistou Soup; vegetable bean soup topped with a French pesto; Piperade, stewed peppers and tomatoes with eggs, and Tarte Tatin, the queen of apple pies.

There are, however, several recipes whose flavor combinations I found questionable, such as Strawberry Avocado Ceviche, Broccoli and Apple Quiche, and Fava Bean and Mint Frittata. I consider myself a fairly adventurous diner, but these pairings were too peculiar for my taste buds.

With such an auspicious first cookbook and popular web site I think Clotilde Dusoulier will have quite a culinary career ahead of her.

CAKE TOMATE, PISTACHE & CHORIZO

( Tomato, Pistachio, and Chorizo Loaf)

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

2 tablespoons sesame seeds-one for the pan, one for topping

1 1/4 cups all purpose flour

1 tablespoon baking powder

3 large eggs

1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

1/2 cup plain unsweetened yogurt (preferably whole milk), Greek-style yogurt, or buttermilk

3 1/2 ounces Spanish air-dried chorizo, preferably spicy, skin removed if any, and diced ( substitute cooked Mexican chorizo or pepperoni )

12 sun dried tomato halves packed in oil, drained and finely diced.

3 /4 cup shelled unsalted pistachios, toasted ( available from gourmet or natural foods stores, or Middle Eastern Markets; if you can only find salted pistachios, rinse under cold water, drain and bake in a 350 degree oven for 5-7 minutes, stirring halfway through)

3/4 cup (loosely packed) fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves, chopped

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Butter a 9by 5 inch loaf pan, sprinkle half the sesame seeds onto the bottom and sides, and shake pan to coat.
2. Combine the flour and baking soda in a small mixing bowl and set aside. In a medium mixing bowl, whisk together the eggs salt and pepper. Pour in the oil and yogurt, and whisk again. Sift the flour mixture into the egg mixture and stir with a wooden spoon until incorporated. Don't over mix the batter- it's ok if a few lumps remain. Fold in the chorizo, sun dried tomatoes, pistachios, and parsley. Stir to combine. Pour the batter into the prepared pan, level the surface with a spatula, and sprinkle with the remaining sesame seeds.
3. Bake for 40 -50 minutes, until loaf is golden and a knife inserted in the center comes out clean. Let cool for a few minutes on the counter, run a knife around the pan to loosen, unmold, and transfer to a rack to cool completely. Cut into slices or cubes just before serving. ( The loaf can be made up to a day ahead, wrapped tightly in foil, and refrigerated. Bring to room temperature before serving.)