Choosing the Right Hair Color Option is Easy when You Know How

I don't remember the color of my hair at the time - Purple and green? Robin's egg blue? - but I'll never forget the look of consternation on my friend Paul's face when he turned to me and said, "You treat your hair like a tub of Play-Doh, you know that?" Which, of course, I did. Hair is the only part of the body you can modify again and again, and as long as you're blessed with good genetics, it'll always grow back for another go. If you're new to hair color, you might be perplexed at the options available. How do you choose the right product? Should you have your hair colored professionally? Permanent or temporary? Well, it all depends on what you're looking for.

Temporary, Semi-Permanent, and Permanent Color

There are roughly three levels of hair color: temporary, semi-permanent, and permanent.

Temporary color is not strictly a dye so much as it is paint or make-up for your hair. Colors of this type typically come as a spray or a comb-in gel that washes out in one or two shampoos. These products are inexpensive - a few dollars - and widely available around Halloween, but most beauty supply stores carry them year-round, and often in higher-quality varieties. Sprays are generally more opaque than gels, so if your hair is dark, try a spray first. Temporary color is great for a single event or a theatrical costume. Take note, however, that temporary color can be messy and flake, smudge, or stain clothing and skin.

Unlike temporary color, semi-permanent dyes are applied once and allowed to set, then rinsed out to leave clean, colored hair that returns to its natural color after several washings. This class of dyes includes most shampoo-in color designed to color gray hair (including Clairol's Loving Care), as well as brightly colored vegetable-based dyes like Manic Panic. With semi-permanent dyes, you can try new hues in your present shade, or go darker. In my experience, lighter dyes will generally only give dark hair overtones; brown may become dark auburn or aubergine, but not pillarbox red or lavender. A box, jar or tube of semi-permanent dye generally runs under $10, though if you have long or very thick hair, you may want to buy extra.

Also, if you have very light hair, some semi-permanent dyes may give you highlights that will stay for quite a while, whether you want them or not. Most semi-permanent dyes are safe and non-toxic, but can stain skin, fingernails, and clothing during application. Also, the more damaged your hair is, the more permanent these dyes can be. It's not uncommon for individuals to bleach a little before applying them. Also, if you're aiming for a brilliant shade like blue or green, chances are you'll need to lighten your hair substantially, and that's a permanent process. Cool colors (blues, greens, purples) also require regular maintenance and re-application to look their best.

Hennas are their own class of semi-permanent dyes, and deserve special mention. These dyes are plant-based pastes applied directly to the hair, allowed to set, and rinsed away like other hair color. However, if you choose to use products with henna in them, be aware that these pigments react very badly to some of the chemicals in permanent hair dyes, even after the color has faded. The net result? Badly damaged, greenish hair. The advantage of hennas, of course, is that they're natural and good for your hair. Just be sure to strip test before applying if you've colored your hair before, and insist on a strip test if you color hair you've used henna on in the past. The good news? Most vegetable-based semi-permanent dyes are safe to use on hennaed hair. You can buy henna kits at health food stores starting at $5, as well as over the Internet.

Permanent hair color actually alters the hair itself. These dyes are chemicals which utilize pigments that are not intended to wash away with any number of shampoos, though they may fade. Red tones in particular tend to oxidize, and often need to be refreshed (sometimes with semi-permanent color rinses). Both permanent color and bleach affect the cuticle of the hair, which may change its texture, or leave it dry and brittle. They're also harsher than semi-permanent dyes, and can irritate and even burn the scalp if used incorrectly, so if you're applying color with a home kit, be sure to follow the instructions carefully. These dyes will also stain skin, fingernails, and clothing.

Obviously, if you want to go lighter than your natural shade, bleach is going to be part of the hair coloring process. However, proceed with caution. Peroxide is a harsh chemical, and can not only damage your hair but irritate or burn your scalp. Not only that, but excessive damage to your hair can make it difficult or impossible to color. Bleach too hard, and not even permanent color will stick consistently or look good. Most home bleach kits are inexpensive, but for best results pick up supplies at a beauty supply shop. Powder and developer will run about $20. However, if you're inexperienced with hair color, it may be best to have this bit done by a professional.

Cost-wise, permanent hair color can be the biggest investment, and rightly so. For one, you're applying a chemical which will irrevocably alter your hair (while you can color over it, you're still affecting the structure of the hair shaft). While home kits are available in the $7-20 range, professional hair color usually starts around $50 and can be quite expensive (hundreds of dollars) depending on the complexity of your chosen look and the exclusivity of your salon. Don't be put off by the price tag, though. If you want to be sure to get the job done right, or you're inexperienced with hair color, it's worth it to have permanent color done professionally.

For Best Results...

While all of the products above are generally safe if used correctly, some of them can be downright dangerous. Always read and follow the instructions on the package, and inquire with the company if you have questions.

While it may seem like a waste of time to do a patch test, I know at least one friend who had to rush to the emergency room when she turned out to be allergic to black hair dye. This is important even if you've used a product before, as allergies can develop over time, or even spontaneously.

Be sure to check for flammability warnings, especially with spray-in temporary color, and be sure to apply hair color in a well-ventilated area.

Having a friend or family member help with hair color will almost always improve your result. Not only is it hard to see the back of your head, but it can be awkward to ensure the even application of color in difficult to reach areas. This is particularly true if you have long or thick hair. Also, if your partner has experience with hair color, she or he can teach you the ropes.

In Case of Emergency

Sometimes, hair color goes terribly, terribly wrong. When it does,

don't panic. While you might not get quite what you were intending, almost every color emergency is salvageable.

First, try and identify the problem. Applying new color over old dyes can have unexpected effects. This is, incidentally, why it's important to strip test. If you can sort out what happened, it might help you identify a solution.

Two, contact a colorist, or at least product support. You may be able to get good, applicable advice on how to solve the problem yourself if you're a DIY type.

Finally, seeing a colorist after disaster strikes is sometimes the best choice. I came out of a major bleach and dye disaster with some of the coolest hair I've ever had when I put myself in the capable hands of a local salon. It cost me a little bit of scratch, but they only laughed at me a little bit.

Have Fun

Hair color is supposed to be beautiful and enjoyable. It can make you feel and look great, and enhance your look. Don't be afraid to experiment. After all, it'll grow back...