Chrysanthemums Reach Peak Beauty in October

Unless a severe frost hits early, chrysanthemums still color our gardens long after trees have lost their brilliant leaves. There are hundreds of varieties to choose from in many colors and flower forms. As you enjoy chrysanthemums in gardens, nurseries or flower shops, examine the different types and plan gardens of your favorites. A characteristic of mums that makes them different from many other garden perennials is that they may be planted when in full bloom.

Many chrysanthemum varieties have their central disk florets exposed, giving them a daisy like appearance. While these are sometimes simply called daisy-flowered chrysanthemums, there are several categories of them. Singles have relatively few ray petals around the center, while semidoubles have numerous petals with a center that is still exposed. Anemone type flowers are single, but have an enlarged center, giving them a cushioned effect.

Many varieties might be classified as fully double without a "center" showing. Most abundant in this group are the decorative type which have petals that curve toward the center of the flower in other decorative varieties the petals are "reflexed", curving away from the center of the inflorescence. Flower size in these types may range from a 1 ½ inch diameter in the button pompons to 4 or more inches in diameter in the standard and exhibition types sometimes called "football" mums.

Another group includes mums with flower that have tubular petals. Such types include the spoon, in which the tubular petals flatten at the end, giving petals a spoon-shaped appearance. Spider types have long, tubular petals with hooked ends. They are eye-catching, but few varieties are reliably hardy. Quill types have similar petals to spiders, but they are straight and usually shorter. Chrysanthemums are relatively cold hardy when in bloom, but a light covering on a frosty night may keep them from being damaged. Flowers in bud are often able to survive a frost, but tender, new petals are often damaged.

Chrysanthemum varieties used for forcing in greenhouses often flower too late in the fall. Severe cold can damage their blooms. However, if these types are near bloom when danger of a severe freeze arrives, they may be lifted and potted carefully in a large tub. They can then be moved into a protected spot during cold nights and brought outdoors on warm days or after the weather moderates. Winter protection of chrysanthemums is important, especially for unusual types which tend to be less hardy. If in doubt about the hardiness, it is best to provide winter cover.

After chrysanthemums finish flowering in the fall, they begin to produce new shoots at ground level. For best survival, plants should be located where they get excellent drainage so cold winter water and ice does not stand at the roots. After the ground has frozen fairly solid (usually between early and mid-December), apply a loose mulch over the plants. Evergreen branches, twiggy shrub branches or even corn stalks may be used. Avoid any materials that pack tightly, or the new shoots will be shaded out or smothered. Varieties known to be tender should be dug in late fall and overwintered in the protection of a coldframe.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chrysanthemum