Color Me Creative: Professional Hair Color 101

Lose the lemon juice lock-lightening technique, and say goodbye to brunette-in-a-bottle, because professional hair color is back in black! . . . and red . . . and blonde. If you've considered changing your hair color, but don't know the basics, read on for insider info on what to do with your 'do.

"Hair color is not just for covering gray anymore," says Ruth Markway, Color Specialist at Studio One salon in Jefferson City, MO. "Hair color is a statement of who you are. It's also so much more gentle on hair than it use to be, and usually makes the hair look and feel healthier."

At Marshall & Co. in Jefferson City salon owner Kim Marshall and her team use an enzyme developer, which develops without using peroxide, reduces fading, allows for more vibrant results, and is more conditioning to the hair. It also allows them to process color in about 10 minutes, so people can come in during their lunch break for a touch-up.

"At Studio One we use Matrix Logics color which is a true colorist's color," says Markway. "The palate allows for more opportunity to create. It's a pure color which allows for artistic creativity."

Recently Markway and her fellow colorists at Studio One attended the Matrix Global Academy in New York City to take a 2-day advanced color class called 'Creativity Uncensored.' A Matrix Logics educator comes into Studio One every six weeks for color training, and Markway estimates that about 65% of the salon clientele come in for color services.

For over-all coverage on gray hair Markway recommends Matrix SoColor, which is a blended base color that already has the color base mixed in for perfect matching. There are three basic options available for typical overall color: permanent (you've signed the line), semi-permanent (color gradually shampoos out in 4-6 weeks), and demi-permanent (color lasts about six weeks). For summer styles, highlighting and lowlighting are popular processes.

"This summer we're doing more of a 'peek-a-boo' look, so instead of having highlights right on top, they're blended throughout and you can see them when you shake your head," says Markway. "This technique is also very client-friendly as far as re-growth goes because you don't see the roots."

According to Marshall, 'dimensional' hair color is also a hot look this season. In this process an all-over base color is applied and then highlights or lowlights are added on top, adding interest to the overall style. Marshall & Co. has a new Goldwell lowlighting product available as well for people whose hair has become too blonde from years of highlighting. The product is applied in one step and nurtures stressed strands.

According to both Markway and Marshall, the consultation is the key to obtaining the results you want. The colorists are trained to look at skin tones and eye color to determine what colors compliment the best.

"Consultations allow us to determine the client's lifestyle, desired maintenance, budget, and the color that works best for them," says Marshall. "We try to work within budgets and we have options available for anyone."

As far as color care products go, Marshall recommends Goldwell and Biologe products, which are water-soluble and contain proteins and conditioners to prevent fading. The Goldwell Color Glow line, available at Marshall & Co., actually has pigment in the product to prolong the life of the color.