Composting is just the gardening term for the natural aerobic decay of organic material, the odorless decay caused by fungi and some bacteria when they have ample oxygen. Compost, the finished product, is a dark, crumbly material that resembles potting soil and smells like fresh dirt. It improves soil texture and water retention by adding organic material.
Scatter composting is the easiest compost method of all. It is the "drop it and forget about it" method. When you are weeding your garden or dead-heading your flowerbeds, drop the weeds and soft trimmings onto the dirt between the rows of vegetables or behind the flowers. By the time you till the soil again, the bottom layers will have turned into some sort of compost. Rake out the intact material and use it as a mulch to give it more time to compost itself. There's no deadline and no grades.
Trench composting is for gardeners who don't want the hassle of a compost heap, but want a tidy garden. Plant your garden as usual. Between two rows of veggies or behind a row of flowers, dig a shallow trench, piling the dirt along the trench. As you weed and prune, or discard kitchen waste, dump it in a short section of the trench and replace the dirt in that section. When you fill the trench completely, dig another one and continue. With typical garden watering, a 4-inch deep layer of potato peelings, coffee grounds and weeds will compost itself by the next spring. Change the position of the rows every year so the old trench becomes a planting area and the old row becomes a trench.
Sheet composting is best for gardens with a large supply of organic material, or as a remedy for poor soil. In the fall, spread thick (6-8 inch) layers of old animal manure, dry leaves, straw, apple pomace or whatever you can get in large quantities. Leave it over the winter, letting the sun and rain begin to break it down. In the spring, till it into the garden area and plant as usual.
A variation of sheet composting, called "no-till gardening", uses a heavy mulch of straw, wood chips, or dry leaves. As the mulch decomposes, becoming compost on the bottom layers, the gardener adds more on top. This method doesn't require plowing or thorough tilling because the gardener pulls back the mulch only enough to plant the seeds or seedlings.
Composting tips: Don't try to compost thick layers of fresh grass clippings: either let the clippings dry or compost very thin layers. Grass is the plant material most likely to turn into a stinking slimy mess.
Don't compost meat, oils, or animal waste with these methods ... unless you have a large compost pile to bury them in, they stink or attract scavengers.
Published by Lazy Gardens
I'm a writer who loves to garden and photograph great plants. I'm also a certified desert landscaper, and like helping people get the most out of their landscape for the least effort. View profile
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3 Comments
Post a CommentI use sheet and trench composting. I turned a horrible side yard where nothing would grow into a thriving garden simply by spreading leaves every year and turning them into the ground every summer. When I planted anything, I dug the hole 3x the size I needed and layered composted leaves and grass with the horrid marl soil. It took about 5 years, but it turned into soil anyone would be happy to plant in, where everything grew with abandon, even vegatables.
L.L., I don't have much of a problem, because I usually get to the weeds before they have ripe seeds.
I thought that it was not a good idea to put weeds into a compost pile as they are likely to result in weeds when the compost is utilized.