Compound in Anti-Wrinkle Creams Found Toxic to Cells

The Canadian researchers Guillaume Morissette, Lucie Germain, and François Marceau report in the latest issue of the British Journal of Dermatology that a product commonly used in anti-wrinkle creams may be toxic to cells. The product is called DMAE (2-dimethylaminoethanol), and is added to creams, as well as other cosmetics, in order to plump up the skin and smooth out wrinkles. Manufacturers of such products claim that DMAE produces "instant anti-aging face-lifts" through a chemical process that is still unknown.

The Marceau team, of the Université Laval, applied various concentrations of DMAE to rabbit dermal fibroblast cells, which are cells that are found in the basement layer of normal skin. Human epithelial cells, the top, flat skin cells of the human epidermis, were also tested. Immediately upon application, the researchers noticed that the vacuoles of both the fibroblasts and epithelial cells had swelled considerably. Cell vacuoles are used to temporarily store materials or to transport substances. After several hours, there was a slowing in fibroblast cell division, with it sometimes coming to a complete stop. In several experiments, metabolic reactions ceased. A significant percentage of cell death also occurred, reaching above 25% after 24 hours had elapsed. The concentration of DMAE used to induce cell death was not much different from what would be normally applied to skin via an anti-wrinkle cream.

While the group does not wish to condemn the use of the DMAE outright, the researchers stress that more studies need to be conducted on this compound in order to determine its safety and efficacy. "Even though DMAE is similar to medication, there is very little scientific documentation about its pharmacological and toxicological effects," states Marceau.

DMAE is not the only anti-wrinkle and anti-aging compound on the market. Alpha hydroxy acid, beta hydroxy acid, and retinyl palmitate-containing creams and serums have been sold for some time now. All claim to diminish wrinkles and nourish skin. Quite often, the exact process of this rejuvenation is unknown.

Marceau and his group emphasize that DMAE be viewed like any other topical medication, meaning that it is absorbed by the skin, goes into the bloodstream, and then is processed by the liver for excretion by the kidneys. In some cases, medications, especially ones that are fat-soluble, may actually be stockpiled in the body, and reaching toxic levels as a result. Therefore, the group recommends further analysis of DMAE, and other topical medical compounds, before their unequivocal release to the public. As Marceau states, "Several compounds found in cosmetics are just as complex as medication...yet, the laws regulating their use are far less restrictive than those regulating drugs."

Sources: Anti-Wrinkle Compound Causes Pathological Reaction In Skin Cells http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2007/04/070411105944.htm
Anti-wrinkle compound causes pathological reaction http://www.scenta.co.uk/scenta/news.cfm?cit_id=1693142&FAArea1=widgets.content_view_1
G. Morissette, L. Germain, F. Marceau. The antiwrinkle effect of topical concentrated 2-dimethylaminoethanol involves a vacuolar cytopathology. (2007) British Journal of Dermatology 156 (3), 433-439.