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Cuenca, Spain: The Town You've Never Heard Of

Nicole Kay
The old town - surrounded by tall, stately, yet slightly shambled houses, teetering so far over the edge of the cliff, and sprawling views of the new city below - leaves you feeling less like an idiot about not knowing how to actually pronounce the name of the town, and more like you've just left all the mainstream, overcrowded city worries behind.

Located east of Madrid with an approximate three hour jostling train ride from the central RENFE station, Cuenca is the capital city of its self-named province, being home to just around 50,000. Still on the up and up since its conquering by Franco in the earlier half of the 20th century, the city has much to offer, whether you're an avid culture-seeker or just looking for a weekend getaway from the hustle and bustle of wherever you come from.

Separated from the new "downtown" area, the old city is vibrant with buildings painted in pinks, yellows, blues and reds; a beautiful 12th century cathedral smack-bang in the middle of its mild-mannered Plaza Mayor; and many hanging houses lingering dangerously into the gorge above the river Huécar. Named a UNESCO World Heritage site, Cuenca offers more than just breathtaking views from the right spots and fine dining to appease all tastes - its old world charm of tightly packed cobblestone streets and other tenuous medieval details in church and museum facades draw the eye of any adoring tourist.

Of course every destination has a highlight or high point to it, a main reason travelers flock from every corner of the world, a monument like no other. The architectural masterpieces dating as far back as the 15th century, though only a few original houses remain, are a sight to be seen. During the day, propped against a near-cloudless blue sky, the houses are rickety and almost in shambles, despite the complete renovations at the beginning of the century. But at night is when the real stars come out. Strategically placed lights illuminate the buildings, drawing attention to the overall detail of the houses, splaying out for you the magnificence Cuenca possesses.

But the time-consuming sightseeing doesn't end with the hanging houses. On top of the UNESCO designated buildings, the city is home to numerous museums, including art, religion, science, and local ancient artifacts. Dining in the old town is comprised of many cafes and bars with the occasional splash of high class fine dining where a €40 meal is the norm. If the upper city cuisine doesn't thrill you, take a lovely twenty minute stroll, cheap taxi or even cheaper, speedy bus downtown and have a gander at the international cuisines - including Chinese, Mexican and Mediterranean.

Accommodations are something of a treat, as you won't find seedy motels, cheap hostels or overcrowded, vermin-infested rentals you might find elsewhere. In fact, one of the most moderately priced (if not under-priced) deals in town can be found at Posada de San Jose, located just a few minutes north of the cathedral at Plaza Mayor. The staff is incredibly friendly, trying their best to assist the guests with whatever they need. Ask for room number 24 and you'll understand why it's considered the "best room in the house." With outstanding views of the gorge and Huécar river below, plus the nearby Parador de Turismo, it's a huge wonder as to why the small realm of Cuenca is such a hidden treasure.

Wandering through Cuenca's old town is a treat. Each twist and turn and slight incline of the streets leads you somewhere different. Get lost for an hour - see the things the overpriced guidebooks don't explain and what the locals overlook on a daily basis. The main staples of Cuenca, including the houses, the clock tower and cathedral, are gorgeous in their own fashion. But nothing beats a saunter down a medieval street, using your imagination to conjure up what it might have been like when the town thrived on textile manufacturing and not tourist money.

And for the curious reader, the town is pronounced th-wen-ka.

Published by Nicole Kay

I live for writing and write for life.  View profile

1 Comments

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  • Rich Thomas5/29/2008

    This is nice. I have something similar coming out soon, about Baeza in East Andalucia.

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