Dark Destination: Edinburgh, Scotland

Are you a "dark tourist?" Instead of theme parks, do you long to visit haunted graveyards and the sites of the most gruesome periods in history? If so, the ancient streets of Edinburgh may be your ideal destination. Once called "Auld Reekie" due to its excessive smoke and stench, Scotland's capital is now a popular Mecca for ghost tours and unexpected chills.

The Gothic aesthetic originated in the Dark Ages, a time which is remembered for both its romance and its gore. Therefore, your tour of dark Edinburgh should begin in the most obvious place - Edinburgh Castle. Visit the dungeon, as well as the crumbled, subterranean remains of David's Tower, held under siege in the 16^th century during the conflict between Elizabeth I and Mary, Queen of Scots. Wander through the Great Hall, and visit the ghosts of Scottish knights in St. Margaret's chapel. This tiny but beautiful chapel is the oldest structure on Castle Rock. Before leaving the castle, wander past the Victorian era pet cemetery.

Speaking of cemeteries, no tour of Edinburgh's darker side is complete without exploring the city's many kirkyards ("kirk" is the word for "church" in the old Scots language). The most popular kirkyard is undoubtedly Greyfriar's, dating back over 400 years. Its gruesome monuments depict human skeletons, snakes and urns. They tell of a time when humans were more aware of their own mortality, and the cries of ghosts were always in the wind. Even the charming story of Greyfriar's Bobby, a dog who allegedly waited by his master's grave until he himself died, has a dark side. Don't believe sentimental guides - the "John Gray" buried in Greyfriar's was not Bobby's owner. The morbid truth is that the little dog had plenty of bones to chew on in the graveyard, while the monuments provided shelter from the rain and wind.

Also inside Greyfriar's Kirkyard is an area known as the "Covenanter's Prison." The Covenanters, who violently opposed the influence of the Stuart kings in the affairs of the Church of Scotland, were kept under heavy guard for five winter months in this part of the cemetery. Many died in the prison, and many of the others were executed. This part of the cemetery is closed, except to tours, due to the large number of injuries and paranormal occurrences noted, particularly near the "Black Mausoleum." This is the alleged dwelling place of the McKenzie Poltergeist, one of the most active ghosts in the world. The City of the Dead Tour, which has access to the Black Mausoleum, begins at the High Kirk of St. Giles.

Edinburgh's most fascinating secrets lie beneath the surface. Over the centuries, the city has been built in layers on top of itself, and now some of these subterranean spaces are open to the public. You can tour the South Bridge Vaults with Mercat Tours. These 18^th century vaults were actually lived in during the city's most crowded period. The vaults are haunted by the spirits of those who died in them. Living conditions were poor, so many died of disease, and still more were baked alive during the great fire of 1824. Today, one of the rooms contains a Wiccan temple.

Also hidden beneath Edinburgh is Mary King's Close, a series of small medieval streets. Here, you can visit the rooms where plague victims died, and learn how life was in Edinburgh hundreds of years ago.

Edinburgh is a city with a rich history - and history is often accompanied by dark secrets. Wander through the narrow closes (covered streets) of Old Town, and enjoy the Victorian decadence of New Town. Wander through Princes Street Gardens, formerly the site of the Nor' Loch, where witch trials were conducted and human waste was once dumped. But be careful, because when you lose yourself in Edinburgh, you never know what you might find.