Discover Rouen the Capital of Upper Normandy, France

Rouen the capital of Upper Normandy has the economical and political muscle to support a flourishing cultural scene, fashionable shops, fantastic restaurants and interesting bars.

113km northwest of Paris Rouen sprawls along the banks of the River Seine.

Although badly damaged in the D-Day bombing campaigns of WWII the city has been restored. There has been a great effort made to rebuild the ancient city center and it is now home to approximately 2000 half -timbered houses.

Rouen has a wealth of history to share with its visitors ranging from Gothic glories to Joan of Arc's tragic martyrdom. It produced Gustav Flaubert and Robert la Salle and it is here that the genius of Claude Monet was nurtured.

When visiting Rouen you may want to make your first stop the tourist office. Not only for information but to enjoy the lovely early 16^th century building that it is located in at 25 place de la Cathedrale. The office is open 9am-7pm Monday to Saturday and 9.30am-12.30pm and 2.30 t0 6pm on Sunday.

Sights

Palais de Justice

The Palaise de Justice is where the law courts are located and the building is ornate and early 16^th century Gothic style.

Very typical of this style of architecture you see a seemingly sober ground floor but as your eye moves upwards the top levels becoming increasingly elaborate with gargoyles and spires.

Although painstakingly restored after WWII damage there are still signs of extensive shell and bullet damage on the 19^th century western façade.

Monument Juif

The Monument Juif is located under the courtyard of the Palais de Justice and is the only reminder of this city's ancient Jewish community.

The Jews were expelled from Rouen in 1306 by Philippe Le Bel and had lived between rue du Gros Horloge, rue des Carmes, rue St-Lo and rue massacre. Discovered by accident in 1976 when the courtyard was being re-paved this two storey stone building is impressive.

The Hebrew graffiti on the building confirms that it belonged to the Jewish community although its actual function is unknown. There are thoughts that it could have been used as a synagogue or a yeshiva or it may have been the property of a rich merchant.

This building has been dated back to around 1100 and is the oldest Jewish monument in France.

There are hour long guided tours of the Monument Juif and you need to reserve your place a day before at the tourist office.

Cathedrale Notre Dame

The Cathedrale Notre Dame was started in 1201 and completed in 1514. Claude Monet was totally obsessed with this wonderful cathedral and devoted around 30 canvases immortalizing its beauty.

The tower was constructed between 1485 and 1506 and was paid for from alms donated by the congregation who wanted to eat better during Lent. Inside the tower there is a carillon of 55 bells weighing 25 tons.

The central doorway is surrounded by statues of prophets and patriarchs and is topped by a sculpted Tree of Jesse.

Inside Cathedral Notre Dame there is an over feeling of peace and harmony.

The interior is 135m long and over the entrance is a beautiful 16^th century rose-window depicting God surrounded by angels.

Whilst visiting the Cathedral Notre Dame be sure to notice the Chapelle de Ste Jeanne which is dedicated to Joan of Arc.

The choir is the earliest part of the church and dates from the 13^th century. The stalls were restored in the 15^th century and are decorated with ornate sculptures that represent various professions.

During Easter, July and August there are several daily tours to the Chapelle de la Vierge, ambulatory and the crypt. The rest of the year the tours are only held on the weekend.

Cathedrale Notre Dame opens 8am to 7pm Monday to Saturday and to 6pm on Sunday.

There is restricted access during the Sunday morning masses.

Eglise St-Ouen

Unfortunately Eglise St-Ouen is often overlooked as people tend to focus on Cathedrale Notre Dame but I would seriously suggest that when in Rouen visit this gem of a church.

Dating from the 14^th century this church is a jewel of Rayonnant Gothic style. The building is an imposing 137m long and 26m wide.

Once inside you cannot miss the wonderful wrought iron grill that surrounds the choir and the organ with its 3914 pipes.

Eglise St-Ouen was once a part of a Benedictine Abbey that was established in the mid 8^th century on the grave of St Ouen.

The Abbey was active until 1790.

You reach the entrance through a lovely garden along rue des Faulx.

Eglise St-Ouen opens 10am to 12.30pm and 2pm to 6.30 pm.

The church is closed on Tuesdays and admission is free.

Aitre St-Maclou

Rouen was devastated by the plague in 1348 and there were thousands of victims that urgently required the need for a new cemetery.

At first the bodies were buried in communal ditches close to the church.

Today you will see a curious ensemble of half timbered buildings that were built between 1526 and 1533 around the graveyard. It is one of the few remaining examples of a medieval charnel house.

On the walls there are macabre carvings of grave diggers tools, hour glasses, skulls and cross bones.

As late as 1781 the courtyard was used as a burial ground for plague victims.

It is now the municipal Ecole des Beaux-Arts (school of fine arts).

The Aitre St- Maclou can be visited 8am to 8pm and the admission is free.

Enter at 186 rue Martainville.

Musee des Beaux-Arts

The Musee de Beaux Arts (the fine Arts Museum) was renovated in 1994 and is well organized and well lit.

This museum is one of the finest regional museums in France and has paintings from the 15^th to 20^th centuries.

Organized chronologically the museum starts in a room that contains one of its highlights, La Vierge parmi les Vierges by Gerard David the 16^th century Flemish painter.

The Rouennais school of painting is a major feature at the museum with room 21 being dedicated entirely to the works of Theodore Gericault who was born on 1791 in Rouen.

The museum is located at 26 bis rue Jean Lecanuet and is open 10am to 6pm.

Other museums of interest - Musee Le Secq des Tournelles, Musee de la Ceramique, Musee de Antiquites, Musee Flaubert et de l' Histoire de la Medicine and La Tour Jeanne d'Arc (Joan of Arc was imprisoned and tortured here before her execution).

Jardin de Plantes

Nestled between avenue de la Resistance and rue Lethuillier in the St-Sever neighborhood the Jardin de Plantes is a good place for a breather especially if you have children with you.

This 24 acre park is landscaped with trees and exotic plants including a giant Amazonian Victoria regia whose leaves can reach a massive 1m in diameter.

For the young amongst us there is a shallow basin where you can have a paddle or sail model boats.

Open from 8am to sunset admission is free

Places to Stay

Tip -pop into the tourist office and ask about the 'Bon Weekend' offer of two nights for the price of one that some hotels offer.

There are many places to stay in Rouen from budget hotels such as the Hotel de la Rochefaucauld to the top end hotels such as the Hotel Dieppe and the Hotel Dandy.

Gay and Lesbian Scene

The oldest gay bar in Rouen is Le Buro at 81 rue Ecuyere and a visit here is a good introduction to the gay scene in Rouen. Le Buro is open from 7pm (10pm on Sunday) to 2am.

XXL at 25 rue de la Savonnerie is a relaxed café during the day and heats up at night. Open from noon until 2am.

A funky hangout for the lesbian community is the Bloc House at 138 rue Beauvoisine. The Bloc House is open from 7pm to 2am Monday to Saturday.

Source: Normandy - The Lonely Planet